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Since there is still a little problem with not getting even (thin/thick) printout for first level I'll try out the auoto level concept see it that improve also
Could be that is another issue
Thanks guys for all feedback ... always helpful
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Oki had some progress ....
Did some Repetier setups a while ago when trying to improve print quality
Print settings
Advanced
Default extrusion widths
First layer
Set that both to 0.5
I changed now to default value 0
That got me 1st layer is NOT printing "thin" like before, it's printing like full layer just as for any layer above 1st layer
Not totally , but most print is not "thin" layer
So
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotechris33
I would look at the level of the bed i use auto bed leveling system and i have seen 100% improvement in get the 1st layer down since i implemented it
Oki, I'll try that. But that will only take care of getting like the 4 corners to be balanced yes ?
Won't take care of any possible warp of the glass itself ?
Ha det gött
Bosse
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotecat.farmer
it may be that your glass is not 100% flat, or your bed is not completely level. this causes the first layer gap to close up and jams the hot end. Check the z height with the bed and hot end at temp at several different spots, every 10 mm or so. you may need to adjust your first layer up a bit.
Thanks for feedback CF. Can't detect any obvious diff in glass level over that area a
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
I saw someone used springs from inside pen for the extruder/filament spring load
That's about the type needed ....
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
My Prusa actually has like failsafe if Z motor feed and hot head hit the glass. The nuts in X axis end mounts just disengage when the X axis assy is lifted off them.
I did NOT warm the nuts into the plastic mounts.
Drawback is you need to readjust Z level if this happens. Since you might not get the nuts in exactly same height when you get them back into mounts.
Still that saved my glass already
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
QuoteRuprect
Yes its the Z Offset thats stored in eeprom, I had the same issue.
The stored value was 0 and the firmware uses the stored value before the value listed in the firmware. (configuration.h file)
You need to load the factory defaults (M502) which will then force the firmware to use the values from your config file.
Then store them to eeprom (M500)
Interesting ... So would it be a good
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
You can see my last solution for this in attach.
Plastic dist get less heat down to aliminium support
Easy to adjust height of bed, just loosen the 2 nuts and adjust
Springs seems no point for me. You still have to adjust height proper. No value added with springs .....
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Okiee. This problem is bringing me into la la land
Some more findings:
I tightened the spring press totally on the filament feed. Springs totally contracted and 4-5 full turns also after that.
This solved the problem for smaller parts. All good there now.
Then I started on my big 70x120 mm print again.
Same like before, after some 10 % of first layer stopped feeding plastic. This time I disco
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
Hm, had a look at a vid howto clean nozzle/extruder. Seems you need a burner to do that proper. Burn any plastics out .
Bit complicated ..... Also I wonder why I can manual feed "for ever" after print fail.
Just push a little on the filaments to get it started. So is cleaning really gonna help ??
Still .... only other idea I have is if there is some irregularity on the notches for feeding bo
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotechris33
Is the motor got enough torque i had similar issues i tuned up the amps on my motor but also check your hotend it may need a good clean
Thanks Chris. Motor should be ok. I see the motor and feed wheel turning as they should ... just not filament going forward.
M, cleaning extruder. Could be. Have to google that.
Took out the feeding bolt and cleaned it good from any little filament
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
Been so happy printing all sort of stuff now for a while. Today I started printing an object with size 70x120 mm
Most other stuff I printed was not bigger than like 30x30 mm
What I found was that when printing the first layer the freakin extruder feed stopped advancing filament ....
Trying lot's of times with this big surface and then with smaller surfaces it just seems I have no good feed for t
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotechris33
the very first layer i have at 0.35 and the rest at 0.4 i always keept the very 1st layer at 0.35
Oki, I'll try that Chris
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Think I'll check out both spray and Kapton .... see how that goes for my printer. Hair spray like any brand... ?? not the expert there
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Just another observation I don't understand.
Printing first layer there is always first a real thin perimeter printed, after that kinda the "real" first layer get printed
Like I have my first layer hight at 0.5 mm other one's at 3
So what height is this first thin layer printed at ? .... compared to the "real" first layer with infill and all ?
Ha det gött
Bosse
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sidhabo
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Printing
Hi doing some more work Adjusting my extruder step feed rate.
Was at 746 and now I think I get better result with value 670 (less plastic feeded)
Just not happy with the top layer ..
Left one in attach was with 746 and right one at 670
None is real good to me ..... or is this the best you can get for top layer ?
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Printing
I downloaded spare parts files from here
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotedrmaestro
I have tried Kapton and had some good results. Howrver the hotend was too low and removed the tape when it hit the edge. My problem is the width of the tape I have, which is 4 cm. I need to lay down 5 pieces to cover the entire bed, which increases the risk of being removed by the hotend. I have ordered a 20 cm wide tape roll, so we'll see if it is a better solution.
Ok, so adhensi
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
Yep I'll try that Ben ... Thanks for feedback
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Oki, just another little learning for me on this ....
Got pretty good result printing a test object
When choosing another test object, it was positioned like x=40 mm y= 50 mm
That one did not adherse at all
The other one at x=90 mm y=100 mm did
So when I changed my second one to same position as first one I did get good print out
So seems like it's important to even calibrate for what position y
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Hm, it's more like 50 - 100 mm bleeding really if you leave it like a couple of minutes on 250 C
Floyd's advise help a lot but still some startup extruder feed missing ....
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Thanks Floyd for info I'll try that
You are right I have hot head at 250 C long before I get bed up to 100 C
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
I'm also struggeling a bit on if to use Kapton tape
My sofar like 40 test prints I have done on plain glass bed
Adjusting z height until I get adhesion good
Problem still is 1st layers get kinda sunk down ....
I'm thinkin maybe I get too close when printing first layers ... just go get proper adhesion
So is Kapton tape going to improve adhesion compared to plain glass ?
I use ABS at 100 C hot
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
I discovered that my 3i often need like 10-20 mm filament feed at start of printing before any plastic get extruded
think it's due to that when warming up to 250 C before printing I get 20-40 mm plastic bleeding out of extruder
Guess I then get a void inside hot end that need to be filled up at the time I start print
Just don't know a good way to get this workin like automatic
At the moment I do
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sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotechris33
sorry i just went on thingiverse searched single wall box it came up with this single wall box lol
Thanks , that look like a decent challenge to get printed. When I get that done I'm probably calibration expert for Prusa
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Thanks Chris, that was real easy to find hehe
http://www.fabfabbers.com/models/id/53/reprapcalibration-by-fugazza
Ha det gött
Bosse
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sidhabo
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Printing
Ok checked extruder feeding calibration. It was fine. Managed to shield fan flow from hot head so it's not affecting at all now
Tried manual cool with fan while printing but no real luck there. Still that kinda flat down of the bottom layers ;(
Just struck me that all since start trying to get good printing I have used the sama stl file for a dice that I downloaded from internet.
Could it be som
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sidhabo
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Printing
QuoteDirty Steve
Have your bed at 110c for the first layer, then drop it down to 80-85c. This will reduce the inward curve of your vertical walls.
Yes, been at that a bit. Trying auto cool function in Reperier. I'll have a go with just manual control of the fan. Have to rig my fan something better.
At the moment it cools the hot end too much when activated.
Thanks for feedback
Ha det gött
Bos
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sidhabo
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Printing
Thanks for info Chris. Yes I print ABS. Will check on my extuder calibration ... see if that is still correct.
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Thanks for info Barakori
1 Do you know where i can download stl file for walled cube ? I don't do 3D design myself ...
2 Hm, is that something you have to add in 3D design , the raft ?
I'm using Repetier V0.95F with integrated Slic3r ... so Repetier is providing most basic settings.
I have just tried some change heated bed temp and turned off the auto fan. + using Z offset to get best distanc
by
sidhabo
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Printing
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Pages: 12345