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After taking your measurements, did you change your Z steps using the formula "(expected length/measured length)*current steps per mm"? 80% layer height is an absolute maximum but its a good idea to keep it low, like 0.1-0.2 mm or 25-50% to achieve better quality and layer adhesion, but if you need a part quickly then do what you have to do. That X carriage print should work just as well with l
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jefbed
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General Mendel Topics
Perhaps try the "Reprappers" category? And welcome. The navigation on the provided site is difficult due to redundancy for one seeking specific knowledge but great for leisurely browsing, akin to the Yahoo directory in the 90s. The subject matter collection is apt. The format needs work. It will be excellent to show in a school environment. Thank you for your work.
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jefbed
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General
That is one instance where you have to go line by line and do everything as correctly as possible. It helps to learn some C/C++. But more importantly, just stick with it till you reach the end of Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h, following the instructions in the comments. Once you do it a few times you will learn where the settings are and modifying things to your liking will be much e
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jefbed
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Prusa i3 and variants
The nozzles are fine, but the MK8/MK9 extruder paradigm is lacking. Bolts meant to hold the motor together are re-purposed as mounting bolts and holes in the motor are made into mounts for extruder components. However, it will be good enough to get you started. Don't push the speeds too high at first. And once you get everything working, consider E3D and 4-start Lead-screw upgrades. I curren
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jefbed
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Prusa i3 and variants
What is your experience with this kit? If very fine attention to detail is paid, it can be one's best machine. Its very easy to screw up too, so that attention to detail is required. I have mine set up perfectly and only use it for technical prints requiring precision or artistic pieces requiring fine detail. The lead screw and E3D hot end upgrades are a must.
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jefbed
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Prusa i3 and variants
I had a bend in the 5mm threaded rods. The smooth rods were very high quality. But I was pissed seeing the Z rods wobble. I replaced them with four start lead screws.
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jefbed
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Prusa i3 and variants
A volatile thought process is what I am observing. A contribution is not a contribution if one should bow down and express tribute for such. It should be freely given whether appreciated or not. Then it will be appreciated. That is the core of open source. Your time is really worth no more than anyone else's time. You insinuated that your time was more valuable, however, than those particip
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jefbed
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Fisher
I disagree on the X wobble, especially if lm8uu bearings are used. I do agree that the height is limited, thus it is best served by a bowden set-up to free up the room used by the extruder. I use an E3Dv6 in a bowden configuration with a Greg's Wade extruder. RepRap plastic parts for the Prusa Mendel i2 are no harder to get than other RepRap parts. eBay shows the i2 parts being sold right alo
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jefbed
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General Mendel Topics
Try ordering a Folger Tech SSR. Just make sure you have a cooling solution for it such as an active fan or mounted heat sink. I have their DC-DC SSR and it works, though it puts out quite a lot of heat. I recently switched to a BIQU style MOSFET module, which heats much faster. But my hardware is 12v, so I suspect using an SSR for AC switching would run cooler.
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jefbed
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Reprappers
Ignore the red neck Gumby. As long as you have thermal protection enabled, as it appears you do, you'll be fine. Just ensure your thermistor is mounted firmly in the heater block and the Z min probe is hooked up with proper polarity. It should be in a copper ferrule and secured with a set screw on Folger Tech printers--Though I don't have a Kossel, but instead a 2020 i3, so it may be different
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jefbed
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General
Why should anyone answer your questions if you grub for money right away at the mere suggestion of dissent? I see no benefit to the community--Pass. If money is your thing, you should have enough to just buy a Fisher and answer your own questions. Take care.
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jefbed
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Fisher
What firmware do you have? What commands are you issuing? How successful are you at communicating with the board via host software? How much voltage is going to both RAMPS terminals? Make sure your power supply is good either with a multi-meter, or, lacking that, by testing on another machine.
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jefbed
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Prusa i3 and variants
Don't let others discourage you if you want to build something. I just built a Prusa Mendel i2 over the summer and it performs just as well as an expensive new machine. Just don't skimp on the smooth rods and hot end and take your time getting everything square and calibrated. Conceptually, it is a great way to make use of common threaded rod and fasteners to build a homemade machine. And, it
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jefbed
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General Mendel Topics
Some ideas: Perhaps try Slic3r Prusa edition 1.40.x. Then set the extrusion multiplier to 0.45. Also make sure autocool is on with with the time limit at 40 seconds, and minimum speed at 10mm/s.
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jefbed
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General Mendel Topics
Get a plastic container with dividers to separate the bolts, nuts, brackets, bearings and washers. Research the RAMPS D1 diode--I'd recommend desoldering it if you intend to run tethered via USB with a 2004 smart controller as well, since it is very easy to blow the Arduino 5v regulator when display, USB power, and PSU power are on at once. If you did order a 2004 smart controller, also be awar
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jefbed
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Prusa i3 and variants
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