ok guys i wrote a post at the duet3d forums . thats a copy paste from there.. i ve managed to get some results working a bit with lightburn. i also noticed ( i have read it already) that both lightburn and laserweb can connect to the duet3d . I didn't try to control the the machine through them . i am using the web interface at the moment. short video the upper right one is the clearest oneby Gaou - Laser Cutter Working Group
ok guys here i am again. It took me a while to get this going but i did. I just got a test using a M106 P0 S100 and got some miliamps on my test resistor. First of all thanks once more for the help. Secondly i would like some help on the coding part. My goal is to be able to use Lightburn ( the gcode version) to be able to send jobs. I am having a problem right now which is i cant get the M5by Gaou - Laser Cutter Working Group
David i need some help understanding the z triggered height So my question is a mathematics one sort of. On the documentation is says that i need to specify the triggered height for the center of the bed and then every point on my bed config. So the H parameter says it is triggered height at a point minus the triggered height on the center of the table . That means that if i have a triggered heby Gaou - Delta Machines
ok guys rails have been changed noise disappeared. Thanks for the help...by Gaou - Delta Machines
david thanks for ur reply. Quotedc42 do they all make the same noise? Yes they do . i have replaced the four screws that keeps the carriage with shorter ones but it didn't help either. It seems that my fear of the cheap rails comes true. the rails have some play and when i proper tighten the screws the noise is there and louder . If i unscrew the three cup screws and leave one then there is nby Gaou - Delta Machines
Here i am again...! this time with my second delta build where i am getting noise and vibration. I double checked all the fittings and they are tight. playing around with speeds accel. steps/mm the noise are not quite the same. the only change between the two deltas are the stepper step angle (0.9 first 1.8 this one with the noise) and the linear rails brand. i have posted a video so if anyoneby Gaou - Delta Machines
the 2020 isnt stiff enough. i regret it a lot but it is a little late . Next built would be sized up to at least 2040by Gaou - Delta Machines
Quotedc42You will also need to change the M574 commands that assign the endstop inputs. can i remap the endstops ? or the only workarounf is to have them switched on the board ? running an old version of duet .by Gaou - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 @Gaou please check that you have set up your delta printer like this: X tower on the left Y tower on the right Z tower at the back i got X on the left Z on the right and Y tower on the back.. Is this what is causing the mirrorring ? if so can i remap the drives through firmware ? edit: i remmaped the drives but it wasnt a good idea as there is no option of remmaping the endstops..by Gaou - Delta Machines
Quotejcs If you try (for instance): G1 x-50 y0 z20 does it go to your left when facing the printer? yes it does. any more thoughts ? the stringing was probably there because of a bad heater calibration. fix that and shortened my tube a little and it seems way better now... thanks guys.by Gaou - Delta Machines
Guys i have done some prints and the printer looks quite promising . I still have some minor problems though . The one is the stringing which i believe is caused by the length of the ptde tube, and the most annoying one is that i am getting everything mirrored ? i suspect it is my configuration and not the slic3r that i am using but i dont know how to overcome this.by Gaou - Delta Machines
Petg should be fine. .mine were abs but ad long as they aren't pla anything will doby Gaou - General Mendel Topics
QuotewildoneThe problem you describe is relatively easy to fix..... thnaks a lot for the tip mate. i disassemble the rods the rails and the effector for changing them to smart effector with haydn rods. i ll keep ur infos for the next without smart effector build . you ve made it sound pretty easy . QuotewildoneI use a 0.2mm first layer. thats pretty impressiveby Gaou - Delta Machines
thanks guys both of you ..! i can take a perfect square as long as it is smalll ( 30mm) . from that point my nozlle is far away of the bed so there must be something wrong...! one thing i ve notice is that my carriage rod distance is smaller than my efector's one . i also understood that the more the length between the rods the less tilt i am getting on the effector. i have seen this from Daviby Gaou - Delta Machines
Guys i need some help. My nozzle is higher on the edges of the bed than it is on the center. Is it an effector thing or is it something else on delta printers that i am not aware of ? is it possible wrong settings on the configuration file causing this ? i do have an ir differential probe but since the tilt is big i dont know how helpfull would be to install.by Gaou - Delta Machines
Quoterq3 About twice a year I pop the arms off the balls, clean everything, and fill the countersink in the magnet with Teflon loaded grease. so you are saying you are metal on metal, like mine ? you ve done great work with the rods for sure. i dont have the tools or the mechanical knowledge and experience to do what you did. i got myself a print today and it seems that i have a problem with stby Gaou - Delta Machines
i dont have a cup . I do have some countersink magnets glueed with instant glue on my effector and on top of that there are the the balls....! i have read what you are telling me some minutes ago on the forum . Seems very right . I do not know if that's the case on mine since there is equal force in a certain diameter on the ball. You can see that in the post for the delta i ve made. I ll lookby Gaou - Delta Machines
Quotejcs I use "mouse tape" on mine. It's thin adhesive teflon tape and lasts for years. i ll look for Haydn Huntley’s set. But untill then that sounds a brilliant idea. Only thing left is to find that tape here in local market. Thanks a lot for pointing.by Gaou - Delta Machines
thanks David for ur kind reply...! Always so helpful... Quotedc42.. it's vital that the magnets don't actually touch the ball studs. i ve notice that as one of my mistakes...! i am looking for a workaround on this ...! i am not sure that i will find a solution though ...! looking for magballs and rods in europe as the only place that have them both is usa.by Gaou - Delta Machines
My apologies for undigging this topic . But searching around for ideas.. Guys i did used some magnets too on my recent build. I am thinking of going back to balljoints as i do have some lying around. My main problem is that the magnets are super strong and i have the impression that they force my effector to tilt ....! On the other hand my rods was 3.2mm inside so i couldn't attach the balljointby Gaou - Delta Machines
Guys i have made some progress on my build, just to realize how many errors and mistakes i ve done... I got myself some extruded plastic and now i am in the process of counting errors and finding a solutions. My biggest one turn out to be the rods length, that made my printing height short enough. The cheapest solution to this it to replace the vertical structure with taller ones to get at leastby Gaou - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 See guys. I ll order a PT1000. Thanks bith if uby Gaou - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 See for how to connect a thermocouple to a Duet. However, unless you want to print at very high temperatures, I recommend using a PT100, PT1000 or thermistor instead. The PT100 & PT1000 dont need a board ; do they plug as they are on my board?by Gaou - Delta Machines
hi guys, been away from 3bprinting for a while i got the change of building a delta printer, thing that i always wanted. But i am new to this design so i would need guidance and advises. This is where i am at the moment . . The reason i choose to make a new effector was the easy of supplies... I already had the ball M4 screws and the fiber rods from robotdigg, so it would only need someby Gaou - Delta Machines
my first mendel was a rpp mendel and since them i 've built three of them. some of them ( 2nd and the 1st rpp ) did served me well but i dont own them any more. I am builting a 4th of them which was started on 2018 but left unfinished due to other projects. . Now i am rebuilting it i expect to be able to print easily at more than 100mm/sec. keep in mind i am printing only ABS, which it needs toby Gaou - General Mendel Topics
the best bet for someone is to grab any printer (ok if you can afford it you can go to a turn key solution) and add it a duet. it is cheaper and more fan . that way you can have the best controller hardware out there in a cheap printer....by Gaou - Duet
QuoteJamesK Has anyone tried the graphite lubed bronze bushings? i am using this kind of bushings in the z axis rods . i am very happy with them . i have a pair of them on every rod . one shelf-lubricated ( i think it has grahite) and the other one a normal bushing ( needs lube but i dont do it ).by Gaou - Reprappers
Happy new year guys. your best bet would not salvaging the mechanical part of the ploter but interfere with the electronics. so you ll be able to use it as a cutter or you can come with something else like a laser ( to do this you ll have to change the mechanical part too) . in the case that it ll work then you can sell the electronics or anything that would be left off as parts and save you soby Gaou - Reprappers
is it a pla plastic. if so then you had a temp to high....! it also seem a bit of overextruding. you have to add a fan and/or print with lower temps.by Gaou - Printing
QuoteDust And what is the printer meant to do when it detects rain? print an umbrella?by Gaou - Printing