Quoteleadinglights Google for Molex Micro-Fit 3.0. They are available as cable plugs and cable receptacles which can be free hanging or cliped into a panel. You should be able to use the same crimping pliers for these as for the standard RepRap ones but it is a bit of an art getting it right without damaging the retaining sprags - after the first few failures I haven't had a failed crimp in theby hobbymods - General
I'm putting together an order for all the Molex plugs listed for the Duet wifi, and have myself some very nice "Engineer PA-09" crimpers. As the E3DV6 30mm fan comes with no connector and I'll be adding twin 40mm print cooling fans wired in parallel, I'll need to put plugs/receptacles on them as well. What do we recommend to use as fan plugs, and does anyone have some part numbers for the genuiby hobbymods - General
QuoteFA-MAS If 7mm od would work, you could use shims from Misumi http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300237240/?Inch=0 Thanks for that. My god that's one difficult and complicated website, but I'll order some of these and see how it goes.by hobbymods - Mechanics
Quotedc42 If the problem is insufficient gate drive voltage then the mosfet used on the Duet should be suitable if it is mechanically compatible. It is type IPD036N04L. Thank you, I've ordered 10 of them. I notice they are MUCH cheaper....the originals cost something like 30AUD, while these were about 1.40....is that a bad sign? Should I be looking at surge protection still?by hobbymods - General
QuoteDjDemonD Why not replace the mosfet with whatever you've got lying around and then use a DC-SSR to run the hot end heater. Just offload the high current switching to something more capable. If it were the heatbed I'd say just use an automotive relay but since its a hot end you want PID control, mechanical relays won't work (wont work well anyway). I'm not looking to modify them as it's tooby hobbymods - General
It does get hot yes. Thing is that this particular machine is known for its absolute reliability, and there's only one other case of this happening known (in Brazil). I've had 3 out of 4 machines do it in the last 6 months. Could the power at my house be an issue? I thought the switch mode supply would handle it all, and the guy from Meanwell Australia certainly said it should (he offered a fby hobbymods - General
Hi All, I am continuously burning extruder heater mosfets on my Zortrax M200's, it's a total pain in the arse. the mosfet is a B120NF10 Is there a different/heavier duty/whatever mosfet I can order to replace it? I can solder very neatly, and have changed them already in the past, but they blow after a few weeks or so every time. Got 3 machines affected the same way, oldest machine has neverby hobbymods - General
QuoteRodF I'm doing the same thing right now, but with a single Nema 17 stepper. And a different belt path just so I can fit my power supply and mother board in there as well. Why would you need 2? Wouldn't one be sufficient and simpler? I am worried one wouldn't have enough power. I suppose that as long as it has enough power to drive it up to the Z stop it will be OK. In normal operation iby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
The quality of the printed parts, and the fact that there are so many printed parts on it in the first place doesn't really inspire confidence in this machine. For me any wobble in the hot end is an issue.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Sent my first bits off to the waterjet cutter today...gantry, X axis, floor and bed support plates. I've put holes for 12mm threaded rod on each side so I can support it all without making the walls (if that makes sense), and see how my triple screw Z axis lines up. Old mate was delighted with my DXF files and said he'd turn it around quick and cheap for me. Reckons he normally gets a scan of aby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist The extra bearing block on the X axis is there because the machine will be heated to print ABS. That heat causes the Y axis rails to move farther apart which, without the extra bearing block on the X axis, will put a very large side load on the Y axis bearing blocks, possibly causing the mechanism to bind. That said, the belt tension is already putting some side load onby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
QuoteRodF Working on the Z axis today. My original plan was to drive it with a single Nema 23 at 3A with a 2M542 stepper driver. Step and direction was going to come from the Smoothie board I got. However I also like the option of the new Duet Wifi so that's on preorder. I'm going to use the Smoothie to upgrade my current printer. My plan now is to use 2 Nema 17's on Z. Because they are inby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
You can get cast plate from Calm Aluminium in Oz, and they've got a waterjet cutting guy just up the road from them that they work with.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
I'm looking to stack 20T idler pulleys on a 5mm shaft. I've tried sticking washers of all different types between them, but they're loose on the shaft and the OD is too big, therefore rubbing on the aluminium pulley flange. I've printed 5x6x1 spacers in ABS and they fit fine, but I'd really prefer to use something that's a precision fit in metal. There are RC car shims that will do it but theyby hobbymods - Mechanics
Anyone know where I can get a GT2 closed loop belt 2000mm long and 9mm wide? Might have hit a snag here as I don't want to buy 100 of themby hobbymods - Mechanics
Interesting test! I think that if you bolt it to some flat plate with all the bolts installed and torqued correctly you'll be fine. Just my thoughts, I have no expertise to back that statement up I'm afraid.....by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Why did you use T slot extrusion when you're mounting the linears on flat plate? Is it because you had some or have used it before, or is there a specific reason for it?by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I heat my printer's enclosure the same way. It just happens to get to 45-50C from the bed heater. I discovered that when it was in my cold basement this winter it didn't quite get warm enough, so I plan to add a supplemental heater. I'll probably use the smoothieboard controller to regulate the enclosure temperature using an unused thermistor input and MOSFET output toby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK Interesting. I really only have experience with ABS. I never got into PLA. Giving up all the advantages of ABS just because PLA is easier and faster just seems wrong. Some time back a guy printing Nylon threw that exact same argument in my head That said, my experience is that even an open window putting a breeze on the print can give radical different results. A continuous thinby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK Hey, Looks really nice but seems a lot of work if you don't do pla printing. You for example said those parts you printed for the mock up is abs? Are all those fans just for pla or is there something about printing I am completely oblivious to? Maybe....I like to use 20% fan for ABS printing as well. Helps with support removal and no noticeable loss of strength in the parts. Litby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Have you checked to see if any air comes out of the fan nozzles? Axial fans don't work worth a damn against any sort of back pressure, and such nozzles create back pressure. Not yet, just a mockup that's similar to the Zortrax twin fan mod. The shroud bolts on separate to the rest so I can try a blower fan as well....I'm assuming that's a better option? To be honest Iby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Quite happy with the whole thing now. A few little tweaks and cable routing mounts and it should be quite acceptable. I'm really stuck for any spending at the moment, so things like this are cheap to do. Going for a serious wooden look...by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK I get how the plug works on that, but what cable will you use with that? Not sure. Looking at it and many other printers, a big plug on the extruder just isn't feasible and would cause issues with simple repairs like changing a fan. I'll just look at a neat way to anchor the conduit or cable chain so it's not a big mess.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Cheers guys. Might be a bit like overdoing it, but I will at least not have crazy cables everywhere even without a plug. Just "cooking" up a new extruder mount with fan shrouds and a cable tie fixing point.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
I'm thinking a plug of some sort might be nice on the extruder mount. I've got plenty of space out the back to extend the brown plate where it bolts onto the yellow faux linear carriage and fit a panel mount plug of sorts. Even as I type this I see an issue if I solder them all into the back of a plug and then need to change a fan or something. There are 10 wires shown, and there'll be 2 moreby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK Wow, those printed parts you have are so nice. I have seen a lot of printed parts on these forums, and it is usually only when people really really try hard they can make something like that... And you just made it for trial assembling... The brown part that holds the fan, how did you print that? Support material? I am afraid that it will crack because you have the layers going in tby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
I've been a bit slack, and also incurred the wrath of the "minister for finance" (and war....she has 2 portfolios) after she saw the bill for 3x 600mm ballscrews and all these other bits. Here's a beginning of an extruder mount arrangement that incorporates the precision carriage, Bondtech extruder and genuine E3DV6 hot end with shroud/fan. Horrible crap brown filament I use for prototyping untby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Their pitch really had little to be believed.... There was some guitar, some trendy european yuppies philosophizing about art and it's look and a whole bunch of general wankery, but hardly a spec or detail on the machine. I think there was some awesome fabrication and potential there, but plenty of weak spots engineered into it and it seems a lack of priorities and direction. Really seemed strby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines