I use a very dilute ABS / Acetone solution applied on glass with a paintbrush. By far the best adhesion, very little warping (and then only on certain prints), with the heatbed at about 90C. ABS will stick as low as about 75C on this. Higher temperatures give better bonding though, which I find useful if the parts have a small footprint. Getting prints off is easy, but you need to trim aroundby jezmy - Reprappers
The latest version of Slic3r (0.7.0) now has a new "Cooling" tab which looks usefulby jezmy - Reprappers
In Slic3r, to have manual control over the temperature, set Temperature = 0 in "Printer and Filament" settings. You can then set the temperature you want from Pronterface or whatever software you are using - the GCode produced will not attempt to control the temperature. This will not stop the "cold extrusion prevented", which should be set appropriately in Marlin as outlined above.by jezmy - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I have the same issue with my Sanguinololu (Rev 1.2) - it's one of the things I seem to remember have been addressed in V1.3; there are ways to sort it (I think it involves replacing a couple of resistors on the board - but can't remember exactly where I saw that). The easiest way is what RobertB says - just switch the 12V power off when uploading the firmware...by jezmy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Flackster, good to hear you got it to compile - I use Marlin and Slic3r and can print better than when I started (used Sprinter and Skeinforge)... Regarding your problem with the MINTEMP - I have had the same problems with my setup. The simple way is to make yourself a nice cup of tea/coffee or whatever hot drink you like, and sit the cup on your heatbed just about where the thermistor is...by jezmy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Could the pauses be caused by data transmission rate issues on the serial side? I just updated the rate in my (Marlin) firmware to 250000 rather than the 115200 default and it seems to run smoother... The only issue this caused was that the printer would reset randomly - turned out to be electrical noise from other kit around the house. Solution : I wrapped the USB cable in kitchen foil, earthby jezmy - General
You could always dissolve some of those scrap/failed prints in a bit of acetone and either paint, or better spray that on. Probably best to do that outside though or you might have some problemsby jezmy - General
I made a set of 12 tooth pulleys (based on ) for my X and Y drives on a standard Prusa because I felt that the diameter of the 8 tooth pulleys is too small for the T5 belt... Although they are not perfect because of the backlash on the 8 tooth ones I had to print them on, they practically eliminate the terrible problems I had of the belt jumping a tooth, causing wrecked prints. On a standard setby jezmy - General
Also - surely we need 2 X Z-motor mounts? Anyone printing the parts from that list might have difficulty putting the second Z-motor on, as it only says to print 1x Z motor mount.by jezmy - General Mendel Topics