Just downloaded new Marlin after few years on my custom 3d printer and i cant enable sd support, if i do it throws this: Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Temp\ccQEJBsy.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `process_next_command()': ccQEJBsy.ltrans0.o.text+0xf06): relocation truncated to fit: R_AVR_7_PCREL agaiby svalsorim - Firmware - Marlin
I`m using this one: Works very well, zero problems just print it at least 50%infilby svalsorim - Reprappers
Have you resolved your issue? I have exactly same problem and i cant figure it out, driving me nuts!!! Help!!!by svalsorim - Delta Machines
Then check your endstops. Have you changed them also? If not have you connected them same way like on previous board.by svalsorim - Reprappers
Check in configuration.h following lines: // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1by svalsorim - Reprappers
It looks like its under-extruding if not check your slicer settings(extrusion width)by svalsorim - Printing
This is what I would do: extruder multiplier 100, retraction 1mm, untick wipe cooling: 1-0% 2-100% Temperature 205C(where is your heaed bed? why is your extruder T3?) Layer height 0.2mm If you have micrometer measure your filament precisely.by svalsorim - Printing
Have you solved your banding i have same issue?by svalsorim - Reprappers
Because with three different suppliers I got abs that won't melt in acetone and to avoid delaminating I have to print at 265c with all metal hotend. I have no problems with other colors. If I print black at 230 I can basically squish prints with one hand , it's just that bad.by svalsorim - Reprappers
In my experience the hotter the better, right now I'm printing @245c but it depends on supplier and color black being the worse. Usually start with 230c and go hotter if you get warping, in my experience temperature helps with warping.by svalsorim - Reprappers
If you're using PLA you MUST use a fan towards top part of hot end. I had exact same issue and after installing a fan worked flawless.by svalsorim - Reprappers
It happened to me to, it was wrong wiring, I printed enclosure and when i was rewiring I mixed one leg of heatbed D8 and other leg of fan D9. So in short just recheck your wiring.by svalsorim - Reprappers
What DaveX said. I completely forgot to mention that heatbed is E18 -).by svalsorim - Reprappers
Check your microstepping you might be running 1/8 instead 1/16 that would give you double distance, try changing to 2000.by svalsorim - Printing
After buying E3D i found out that supplied thermistor is showing whole 20C more than actual( checked with digital thermometer) if selected no 1 in marlin, number 6 is actually very close. So check actual temperature if you can or just print hotter and see if there is a difference.by svalsorim - Reprappers
From what i can see you are under extruding quite a bit increase your E-steps about 5% as for not lining up most common problem is skipping steps which could be from either to much or to little power, also lower your acceleration to 1500 and maybe jerk on Y to 15by svalsorim - Reprappers
Usually you would send code something like this M303 E0 S230 C8 where E0 is your extruder S230 temperature and C8 number of cycles to perform and would recommend at least 8. Hope this helps.by svalsorim - Reprappers
Use rectilinear infill for bottom layer, check your E steps and check is filament skipping.by svalsorim - Printing
I would check e steps, you might be over extruding a little. Also adjust your height a bit better, it looks you squishing quite a few of lower layers. I too do not think its z wobble.by svalsorim - Printing
I would try 0.15 layer and check your E steps. Also i get great results lowering acceleration to about 1500.by svalsorim - Printing
You need to calibrate E steps. Follow this excellent guide to have it super calibrated. Brim is not a good for comparison because its a first layer and they tend to be thicker depending on your nozzle height.by svalsorim - Printing
Just shot in dark...try lowering acceleration to about 1500. Another thing... check your pulleys and belts, do they match? It happened to me once that i had 2.5 belts and 2.0 pulleys.by svalsorim - Printing
Check this video log: This is just first one from eleven total i think.by svalsorim - Reprappers
As far as I can see its using all M10 threaded rods and extruder is different, also using 4 bearings on x carriage instead of standard 3.by svalsorim - Reprappers
Take a look at this one: . Very well documented.by svalsorim - Reprappers
I guess it would be a personal choice. There's quite a few single plate versions.by svalsorim - Reprappers
You got it. Just get a good hot end like buda or jhead. Once assembled calibrate it before starting to print. This is very good guideby svalsorim - Reprappers
Definitely go i3 route, lot easier to build. I bought my first electronics from reprapdiscount as kit but lots places sell them.by svalsorim - Reprappers
I guess depends what version you're building. For boxed you only need 3d printer for plastic parts. For single sheet usually water jet is used but i guess you could use CNC mill, talking about frame obviously. Thats it for Prusa i3.by svalsorim - Reprappers
I was wondering same thing. I really like cura tool paths and print quality but bridging is a mess.by svalsorim - Reprappers