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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Where to put the extruder on a delta? - 7 years ago
Thanks for all the input! It looks like I'm pretty well of as it is then. I have to rebuild some to make room for ( much needed) structural reinforcements but it is only a set of new printed parts. I will look in to a pivot for the extruder, that could probably shorten the tube by a third. Cheers!by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: ball-cap rod-end concept pros and cons - 7 years ago
Would not be too hard to machine something that works like the Trick Laser-cups, I think. A countersinked hole in some slippery, reasenably hard material should do it. The trick is attaching the spring so the joints will self-center. A pure print might work tooby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Where to put the extruder on a delta? - 7 years ago
HI O! I'm not going flying, remote or direct, I will stick to bowden. High, middle or low is the question.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Where to put the extruder on a delta? - 7 years ago
I finally got my Kossel is up and running and I'm closing in on the "Tear it all down and rebuild it"-point. A few decision remain befor I pull out the allen-keys, one is the best placement of the extruder. Today I have it in the middle of one side about 1/3 up with the bowden-tube in a nice U. It works well but many have the extruder on the top with the bowden-tube in a more Z-like shape. Pros,by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Help! Delta refuse to get closer then 1mm to the bed - 7 years ago
I am trying to get my delta up and running and it is getting close but not quite close enough. I run RAMPS on Repetier 1.0dev. Auto-calibration works (Thanks obewan!), delta adjusted and the extruder is calibrated. But it refuses to get the nozzle closer to the bed then 1mm. If I jog it, it simply stops moving at Z=1 and if I run a print it will pause at first move to the bed. If I unpause theby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: 
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive 
- 7 years ago
Something had changed, one of the cables to the probe-switch had broken off at a solder. So, almost there (I hope)! Probe height is a bit off and a check of the flatness.by SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
I tighten the belts AND now it will not auto-calibrate The probe never reaches the bed and I get an error. When I move "by hand" Z is OK but during auto-calibrate Z=0 is about 6-7 mm of the bed. And I have not change anything, only adjusted the beltsby SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
G33 it is then and a strange thing happen. At 0,0,1 the nozzle is 1.2 from the bed, I move it down 0.4 and at 0,0,0.6 the nozzle is 0.2 from the bed. that is over twice the movement, It is repeatable and the Z height is correct. Time to tighten the belts or....? .by SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
The configuration tool made it a lot simpler Thanks! Home works Servo works G1 z works and after A LOT of frustration G29 and G32 works Z is a few tenths lower at the edges then in the middle but that will be a task for tomorrow. Thanks obewanby SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
Repetier firmware 1.0Dev installed. And I have a few questions; How do I set it up so the printer home correctly? How do I set up the servo for the prob? How do I set up the calibration probe? Cheers!by SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
After a bit of tinkering I got the servo to work with RichCattell's firmware and could run autocalibration BUT after calibration the nozzle hit the bed at Z=3.5. Changing probe Z offset and Z home don't help. On the positive side, the nozzle moves fairly parallell to the bed. I'll try a dev Repetier tomorrow.by SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
It is something in the Folger "Marlin_delta2" firmware. I changed to RichCattell's "Marlin-matser" firmware form Github and G1 Z worked BUT the servo for the calibration-probe did not.by SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
Oh yes, obewan. Both with Repetier's home button and G28 works fine. G-code for X and Y movement also works.by SlowFoot - Printing
Help! Starnge nose dive - 7 years ago
So I'm finely trying to get my Folger Kossel rev A to run and it is "almost" there. It moves fine with Repetier's manual commands, Most G-code also work BUT if a do a G1 Z(any value) F1000 it will do a nose dive straight in to the print bed. I have no clue why. Any suggestions appreciated, Cheers! .by SlowFoot - Printing
Folgertech Kossel Rev A strangesness - 7 years ago
Hello again, its been a while. I have one of the last Kossel Rev A-kits that Folgertech made. The build staled because of RLI but now I am at it again. Everything have come together fine including a few upgrades. The delta will home ok, I can move it around with Repetier-Host (1.65 IIRC) and X, Y, and Z movement are fairly correct. How ever: The extruder will not move, I swapped stepper-stickby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Ripples on X and Y axis - 9 years ago
Quoteimqqmi @downunder35m thanks for sharing the straightening technique, I might try it out. I was wondering, when moving the micrometer, the bench should be perfectly flat, right? By roller do you mean a bearing the m5 rod fits into for example? That would work too, any rollers that are close enough to support the rod and reasonably round, bring out the LEGO.by SlowFoot - Printing
Re: Is it shrinking by itself ? - 9 years ago
Quotebianchi I use buildtak and not putting anything else on top...can I clean it first with alcohol? I use BuildTak too, you should clean it with alcohol, good and often. it is sensitive to grease and dirt.by SlowFoot - Reprappers
Re: Is there any best practices for smooth rod diameter per hanging length? - 9 years ago
You done a good piece of work, keep it up. What matters is how the distance between the nozzle and the bed change over the print area, that is why the X and Y flex should be added together, unless the firmware lets you compensate for flex on each axis. With 10 mm rods you are talking about pretty small errors, there are other parts that, most likely, will have larger impact on the nozzle-bed diby SlowFoot - General
Re: Is there any best practices for smooth rod diameter per hanging length? - 9 years ago
Missed the pulleys bearings and belts of the core-setup that will add some wight but I think the plastic is a bit too much so it will even out. The total error is the sum of the X and Y flex, I can't figured out if that is how this was calculated or not. And it - sign on the result indicate the direction of the flex, down.by SlowFoot - General
Re: Looking for smallest diameter heater block.... Ideas? - 9 years ago
Still not cheap but a step in the right direction; sub-miniature heater cartridge from Me3D. And they got a 60W version, that I have been looking for.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Which one is stronger ? - 9 years ago
Then I would guess it is possible but it will depend very much on the design being right for the material.by SlowFoot - Reprappers
Re: Looking for smallest diameter heater block.... Ideas? - 9 years ago
Someone must have tried using a stand alone air pump and tubes for cooling. I don't know is a blower fan can make enough pressure for a setup like that.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Which one is stronger ? - 9 years ago
Quotebianchi do you reckon carbon inforced PLA is strong enough for a functional component ? for example a bicycle pedal ?... thanks I don't no enough on the subject to make a guess. Do the pedal have a shaft or is it self supporting?by SlowFoot - Reprappers
Re: What do you think of this Chinese Delta all-metal printer? Is it worth the price? - 9 years ago
This looks like a not too awful cheap chines starterby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Which one is stronger ? - 9 years ago
What kind of "strongest"? Depending on the use, I would say, either one.by SlowFoot - Reprappers
Re: Best bang for money? - 9 years ago
If you need a few specific models, out source. If you want to get in to 3d printing, start simple and upgrade. That said, you want a printer that can be upgraded and the reprap family printers are the best for that. "Best bang for the buck" is always to source the parts your self and make your own "kit", it will cost you lots of time tho and any experience from 3D-printing will be very helpful. Tby SlowFoot - General
Re: Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level - 9 years ago
QuoteKoenig QuoteSlowFoot QuoteCaptain_Tim Anyone who cut their diagonal rods to be around 250mm, what was your build size? I'm almost at the part where I need to cut them, and I'm deciding if I should go with the recommended 230mm or go for a 250mm I made mine 250 mm total length but my build is not finished yet. My goal is to get a higher lowest angel on the arms to reduce the impact of buildby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level - 9 years ago
QuoteCaptain_Tim QuoteSlowFoot QuoteCaptain_Tim Anyone who cut their diagonal rods to be around 250mm, what was your build size? I'm almost at the part where I need to cut them, and I'm deciding if I should go with the recommended 230mm or go for a 250mm I made mine 250 mm total length but my build is not finished yet. My goal is to get a higher lowest angel on the arms to reduce the impact of bby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level - 9 years ago
QuoteCaptain_Tim Anyone who cut their diagonal rods to be around 250mm, what was your build size? I'm almost at the part where I need to cut them, and I'm deciding if I should go with the recommended 230mm or go for a 250mm I made mine 250 mm total length but my build is not finished yet. My goal is to get a higher lowest angel on the arms to reduce the impact of build errors and also a bit largby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Re: Wood choice - 9 years ago
Where I live making anything with precision out of wood a bit of a adventure because the air humidity shifting over the seasons. Wood can easily change 0.5 - 1% in size.by SlowFoot - Reprappers