It's the filament curling up? What hotend did you installed? And all metal? Does it have a cooling fan? It's on all the time? Your hotend nozzle might be of poor quality and it might pulling the filament up, did you assembled it or just installed as it came? Your nozzle to bed distance might be too high for the filament to attach to the bed. Need to provide a lot more info to try to help you.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Check again your axis belts and probably recalibrate your steps per mm in all axis, your extruder need some calibration too, it looks like you have some over extrusion. But as always needed what material are you printing with, what temperatures, layer heights and speed, also what kind of extruder and hotend you are using.by ggherbaz - Printing
For that size nozzle 0.1 layer height is the maximum, speed around 30mm/sec is good start point.by ggherbaz - Printing
I will recommend you to clean the nozzle and retract the filament unless you plan to print with same material.by ggherbaz - Printing
I purchased all my rods from Aliexpress and have never had problems, most of the vendors will cut to size and you can read the reviews to select the best vendor.by ggherbaz - General
My 2 cents: The aluminum foil will not work, it is too thin, so either change to an aluminum bed and no glass or use a capacitive sensor.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
In essence you are correct, with powerful stepper and tight belt it won't skip but it might vibrate and that vibration will be registered in the print. So yes for heavy beds its better low jerk and also low speeds.by ggherbaz - Printing
Check the scale setting in your slicer. Also you can check how many layers are generated in the gcode.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Use bakelite sheet instead, 80 degrees is best for the bed and 260 for the hotend.by ggherbaz - General
I have used Simplify3d for the last 2 years and even when it is lights years ahead of the free slicers, and probably will do better jobs with circles, it won't fix your problem. To create perfect perpendicular holes, you need to account for several factors: 1 At which layer it will start. 2 How many layers will be needed to cover the right dimension. 3 the use of a good quality cad program. Iby ggherbaz - Printing
Igus bushings are usually oversized and if not correctly constrained (aluminum housing or well printed housing) will vibrate or bind to the rod as it moves. Even if they are self lubricated, you should try to lubricate the rods (use dry lubricants) to see if it helps a little.by ggherbaz - Printing
Sound to me that you are using 1.75 mm filament in a 3mm hotend? Can you post photos and links of your hotends (both the 15 and the 50) plus filament size.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Try few things: 1. Change filament. 2. Swap stepper motor. 3. Swap stepper driver. 4. Re-flash firmware. 5. Chech power supply. 6. Clean hotend and check nozzle for proper hole size.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
cristi@stanica.ca, Invert the direction of the axis creating the mirrow effect.by ggherbaz - Printing
That's for sure. The only things that comes to my mind is axis binding (not parallel) or if the rods turn with the pulleys and your axis slide on bushings, they might be locking against a bent rod? Or uneven diameter rod, the last possibility is underpowered steppers, not enough from the power supply or not well adjusted stepper driver.by ggherbaz - Printing
What kind of speed are you printing at?by ggherbaz - Printing
Don't know if you already find an answer to this but no it won't work with a rework. Standard prusa i3 was designed for 8mm rods and rework is 10mm, also the side panels cut for the rods are designed for 8mm and lower than the printed corners holes of the rework.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
After 2 years of printing I can say that regular glass have some short life span when used as built plate, every certain number of cycles it crack or do what it did to you. It is cheap so keep few ofd them in stock. Borosilicate glass will do the same, it will only take a little longer to happen. I'm planning on switching my underside plate from aluminum to copper and will print on top of a detby ggherbaz - General
Check the power supply output volteage, check the cables from power supply to the board to start with. Plug your usb cable to the board and computer see if is working on the 5 volts side.by ggherbaz - General
Just one advice, as soon as you have it printing, desing and print all extra parts since the acrylic pieces don't last long.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think it will be a bended Z axis neither, most likely is on the steppers (if you are absolutely sure isn't the belts), have you check the vref on your stepper driver? Also what speed are you trying to print at? Do a little test and increase non printing speed at 3600 to 4000 mm per min and move X and Y about 100mm on any direction, see if the stepper skips or if it makes any noises, cheby ggherbaz - Printing
Make your pick: Molybdenum Disulfide Diluted lithium grease 3 in 1 oil Compressor oil Gun oil Graphite in spray I can keep adding to the list.by ggherbaz - Printing
It's not simple, several factors are involve like acceleration, torque, weight, voltage used, etc. Here are two websites to start with: Have fun readingby ggherbaz - General
Check the power settings in marlin configuration h file, be sure is set for 255 and if PID is enabled that it is set correctly for your bed.by ggherbaz - General
Not so fast, what kind of lead screw you have? It sounds by that number that you don't have 1/16 micro stepping, can you check in your board if you have all the jumpers plugged under the stepper driver (if ramps).by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Switch the logic of your endstop in configuration h file.by ggherbaz - Printing
Yes there is, via display: go to settings and change the steps per mm there and then save it or via gcode M92 and then M500 so you will do M92 e725 and then M500by ggherbaz - Printing
Your steps per mm and the feedrate your stepper can do will define the speed. But usually a lead screw will be slower than a belt unless the pitch is high enough to compensate for. To give you an example: a stepper motor with a 20 tooth gear and a gt2 belt will move 40mm for a full revolution of the stepper (5 revolutions to cover the standard 200mm built plate), to do the same you need a 40mm pby ggherbaz - General
Yes, the machine type. The first setting in marlin which defines if you have a heated bed or not.by ggherbaz - General
You have EEPROM enabled, so either disabled or save your changes via display or gcode. On Marlin firmware you can change the settings for the knob in configuration h file under the display selection.by ggherbaz - Printing