That's cool! What are those clips holding the glass down in the corners?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
What temperature are you using?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJoeH I've been printing PLA on glass with purple glue stick without the heat bed. I cut my startup time by 5 to 7 minutes since I don't have to wait on the heat bed to warm up. And the prints stick very well. I've only tried Folger Tech PLA so far. I do have Folger Tech ABS, and Hatchbox PLA and ABS to try. I may try the Folger Tech ABS tonight. What bed temp do you think I should start witby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Nice! I need to do something similar!by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n that's unfortunate. I have been contemplating a borosillicate glass plate. But I am not sure if I want to go with inductive auto leveling, or capacitive. Capacitive seems so much better because it works with glass, and I have a really good time printing PLA on glass. ABS however, I just put on my first roll last night. Printed a couple small things directly on glass no problems, so Iby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
@therippa - what settings did you use to design/print the LCD holder? I tried a couple with different infill settings and percentages, but I never know what to pick. One turned out ok (honeycomb, 70%? 80%?), the other crumbled when I tried to install it (recitilinear, 70%) Should they be 100%?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Quotemel0n Also Markts still waiting on your feedback on those zip ties I have lubed the crap out of my x axis rods/bearings and now that the lube has worked its way into the bearings its gotten considerably quieter, but not exactly quiet, just better. I am using speed cream skateboard bearing oil as my lubricant on everything because it prevents corrosion, is safe on plastic, andby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck. I had the same trouble, but apparently others got it to work out of the box. Check my post on page 5. I had to upgrade to the latest version ofby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n Also Markts still waiting on your feedback on those zip ties I have lubed the crap out of my x axis rods/bearings and now that the lube has worked its way into the bearings its gotten considerably quieter, but not exactly quiet, just better. I am using speed cream skateboard bearing oil as my lubricant on everything because it prevents corrosion, is safe on plastic, and is designedby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas It requires extra hardware which is a servo and a few settings to modify on the firmware to enable this feature as well as to set the correct offsets from the extruder tip to the z endstop. Basically, your z endstop will be relocated on the servo which is attached at the X carriage/extruder motor or wherever it can be practically placed. During bed levelling/calibration, the servo wby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n QuoteAridad Quotemel0n Just curious, is anybody else's printer really loud? Mine has been really loud, and getting progressively louder the more I print with it. Its completely related to the X-Axis and its a really loud vibration. I have tried messing with belt tension to make sure its not too tight, but the sound is still loud...My Y is nice and quiet even during rapid movements thatby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGarben Hello all, This is my first post on RepRap, but I wanted to say thank you for all your post. I bought the FT 2020 about 3 weeks ago and I had some problems at first (Some of the solder joints on the back of the Ramps board had been bridged. This made it half work until it blow my Mega board.), but FolgerTech took care of me and now I am up and running. I have done a few prints like soby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesouthenprinter Is there any way i can see whats going on the firmware without changing it? I did a little googling and only saw how to upload a new firmware to the printer. The one that it currently has is Repetier 0.91. I wouldn't like to change it because it might make things worse. A couple of things. The firmware that lives on the printer and is loaded by the Arduino application is calby markts - General
The "official thread" URL is referenced in their build guide, which is why so many people are flocking there. Can you move it but leave a link to the new location?by markts - Reprappers
Quotejessiebeman No the axis's stop where they should I was just giving z as an example. If you go to the endstop there is no going the other direction to get it out of the end stop. From my understanding, you should be able to move the motors in any direction and in the increments provided (.1mm, 1mm, 10mm, 50mm,) while in manual. I can not. None of the directional buttons in manual work exceptby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejessiebeman Ok my bad. The motors shut down when the end stops are reached. I thought that homing was specific coordinates in the code telling the motors where to place the axis's. But that's the only function that works. For instance if z axis moves too far down I have to unwire it and wire it backwards and press the home key again to get it to move in the other direction. Ok, so when youby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejessiebeman Wides Spread- the body is acrylic. Markts- They move all the way to the end stops. If the end stops were not there the motors would keep going, so they really aren't homing. I just have that one command in that one direction towards the end stops. No other functions work in manual. You are supposed to be able to move each axis in .1mm /1mm 50mm increments etc but none of thatby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejessiebeman So I bought this printer and assembled it. When I follow the directions on the folgertech web site link that they assigned to the revA to configure rep host and test printer I run into problems. Step 1 in the directions has links to download the Arduino, Rep Host, and google drive programs. The link for google drive is no good! So I assume that they are referring to the (Marlinby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotemarkts Quoteanimoose Way back on this thread, markts reported needing to download a new Marlin and make some config change to get the LCD panel to work (I mean this one). I just tried mine and it worked out of the box. All the necessary defines are already set in configuration.h and pins.h. I haven't tried a print with it yet, so I don't know if it will kill the run the way marby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Way back on this thread, markts reported needing to download a new Marlin and make some config change to get the LCD panel to work (I mean this one). I just tried mine and it worked out of the box. All the necessary defines are already set in configuration.h and pins.h. I haven't tried a print with it yet, so I don't know if it will kill the run the way markts said. I may have to diby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
How far off were the extruder values? I haven't done this and am curious what the effect is if it's wrong?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm sorry I can't help diagnose the issue (I'm facing much the same issue on mine). Can you tell me what guide you followed to calibrate the extruder?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Quotemarkts QuoteUncertainty I'm back to printing at 230c (abs)/ bed 110->105c with great results. Extruder motor gets hella hot though, I'm worried it will warp the carriage. My Vref is at 0.38 but I fear going any lower due to skipping. Interesting! I was having problems with the extruder clicking and I figured the temperature wasn't high enough (also ABS). Someone suggesby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty I'm back to printing at 230c (abs)/ bed 110->105c with great results. Extruder motor gets hella hot though, I'm worried it will warp the carriage. My Vref is at 0.38 but I fear going any lower due to skipping. Interesting! I was having problems with the extruder clicking and I figured the temperature wasn't high enough (also ABS). Someone suggested LOWERING the temp and yepby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedarkechibi I think I am right at the end, but I seem to have hit one final wall. my extruder will not heat. I hit the button to turn on the extruder and it says heating, but the temp does not rise. Any idea's anybody? EDIT: We tried changing the bed, which heated, and the extruder, which did not, power leads. The extruder heated now but the bed did not. that indicates a physical problem, coby markts - Reprappers
Quotesouthenprinter Quotemarkts Does it never heat the extruder? It stays at room temp? How long did you wait? How about if you change the settings so it doesn't have to heat the bed? Depending on how long you waited, this still sounds like how mine behaves. So room temp is about 19-20C. I start the print some 10 min ago and in that period it rose to 25C. Was the bed up to temp?by markts - General
Does it never heat the extruder? It stays at room temp? How long did you wait? How about if you change the settings so it doesn't have to heat the bed? Depending on how long you waited, this still sounds like how mine behaves.by markts - General
Behaves exactly the same way for me. I've found it does the right thing despite the messages it prints. If I just hit print, it'll bring the bed up to temperature first, home the extruder, THEN heat it up. Sometimes I go into manual control and heat them both up at once, then hit print. That lets me remove the cardboard I need on the bed (when using ABS).by markts - General
QuoteUncertainty Quotemarkts QuoteUncertainty Also FYI I'm having the best print so far with ABS (black from FolgerTech) @ 215cExtruder 95cBed using skirt/brim with elmer's purple school glue on a clean glass plate You give me hope! I kept cranking up the heat when it didn't seem to be working - I was up to 245. Maybe I should have been going lower. I found that at 230-245c that the extruderby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Also FYI I'm having the best print so far with ABS (black from FolgerTech) @ 215cExtruder 95cBed using skirt/brim with elmer's purple school glue on a clean glass plate You give me hope! I kept cranking up the heat when it didn't seem to be working - I was up to 245. Maybe I should have been going lower.by markts - Prusa i3 and variants