I'm getting there now, once I sorted out the E steps to the Z axis I was away, although my prints aren't of really good quality yetby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Printhopeful Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm looking to get into this Reprap phenomenon. > Though still trying to get my head around the > whole procedure of getting started. > > Reading the forums, I noticed Mindkits was > planning a full on, complete Mendel Kit. But it > isn't on the website. > > Is this still goal? I know you'lby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Just looked at your Blog post nophead so I know what your talking about at least, I guess from reading the blog that their is still no way to do that in SF. I'm nowhere near at the stage of reading the Gcode properly yet. I don't suppose there is a way to put something in the alteration files for SF. It would need somebody that knows a hell of a lot more than me to know what thoughby NelsonRap - General
My large Wades gear came out excellently, so I decided to try the driven holder fro the same extruder, I did get a small amount of warp on the bottom as the masking tape let go. However when it got to the layers where the horizontal holes are (the bolts with springs on go in these holes) the extruder looks like it has either moved sideways a fraction or shrunk at those layers, i'm not sure whichby NelsonRap - General
Thanks guys, have found that by setting multiply in SF I can print several of the same item at the same time, so something for me to play around withby NelsonRap - General
Now that I am happy with the way my Mendel is printing, I want to print another one a full set with Wades extruder, so far I can only get one item onto the print bed at a time. I use Solidworks 2011 as my CAD program and to save as .stl files, I also have NetFabb, Solidworks eDrawings viewer and I use Skeinforge41 for my Gcode and Repsnapper to drive my Mendel. I am using Windows as opposed to Liby NelsonRap - General
Thats cool was just wanting a second opinion to confirm what someone esle had already said. Thanksby NelsonRap - General
If your using Gen6 electronics have read of my posts on this forum I explain how to update Gen6 and get the correct Z axis E steps Linkby NelsonRap - General
Have changed to printing on masking tape, had some purple low tack stuff left over from a job so used that. My word I can't believe how well the PLA sticks to it i have trouble removing the printed piece afterwards but it stays perfectly flat now. Been playing with the temp settings too. Can anyone confirm whether I do actually need to turn off the temp control in Resnapper to use the temp settiby NelsonRap - General
Just had a play with the statistics numbers and I think I have a realistic idea of how much each print costs now. Thanks, its more so that I can track how much I am spending as I have to budget for the PLA since I can't work at the momentby NelsonRap - General
Thanks sublime, something to play with tomorrow now. Off to read Nopheads blogby NelsonRap - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes I use the temperature settings and have found > them to be very important. Raft has to be enabled > for the temperature settings to work, but you can > set the raft's (integer) values to 0. I found that > testing the minimum temp I could extrude at and > then use 20degrees hotter for the first layer andby NelsonRap - General
Do any of you set the temperature for printing in SF? As at the moment I just set it in Repsnapperby NelsonRap - General
I have a heated 4mm aluminium bed that heats to around 40-45C, will give all the ideas a try since I have some glass somewhereby NelsonRap - General
I'm going to stick with Gen6 at least for the time being as I have it working well nowby NelsonRap - Skeinforge
Thanks, will give it a go once I have been to the shops as at the moment I only have narrow purple tape, non branded. Just had a read through of Nopheads blog on the subject of tape, makes sense and his results are clearly goodby NelsonRap - General
I might try the blue masking tape next since I have no easy way to turn up the heat. Does PLA stick better to masking tape than it does to Kapton?by NelsonRap - General
I'm a builder by trade had to stop after 26 years though due to ongoing shoulder problems, had an operation 6 years ago about to have another in 3 weeks. Got bored at home so teaching myself CAD and thought a ReRap would be a good addition so that I could print things I draw. Open source made it affordable when you don't have an incomeby NelsonRap - General
Ok will have to have a rethink on the hot bed then, I'm using PLA though not ABSby NelsonRap - General
I had the tip at 200C throughout and I can't change the bed temp as it is either just on or off at the moment but it only gets to around 40-45C I can still keep my hand on it without getting burntby NelsonRap - General
I have made some test prints which came out fine so I decided to step up to the mark and print myself a spare driven gear for my Wades extruder (the large gear). Once the print had finished I removed it from the print bed (heated Kapton) and found it had domed slightly on the underside by about 1-2mm. This had lifted the edges from the bed but because the middle was still well stuck it made no dby NelsonRap - General
Thought I would add myself to this map, surprised how many people are working on RepRaps in NZby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I just printed a large gear for a Wades extruder using SF41 and the following settings. The gear came out really well although it is slightly raised on the underside which lifeted the edges off the bed while printing. It wasn't a problem as the middle had stuck really well Skeinforge 41 settings Profile type – Extrusion Profile selection – No 4 (I have several I just kept cloning them so I coulby NelsonRap - Skeinforge
Thanks for that said my maths was bad didn't I makes much more sense nowby NelsonRap - General
Where down under are you I'm in New Zealand. Free programs that can export to .stl include NetFabb which I use to orient parts if I've designed them and they end up on their side or something when I import to Repsnapper or Solidworks do a free eDrawing reader which can also do it. I would recommend though NetFabb although I use bothby NelsonRap - RepSnapper
So by my dodgy calculations 1mm should weigh 0.000009g. Real brain fade here I printed an object that according to SF and my scales is 2.2gby NelsonRap - General
I get frustrated when told wow that's big or wrong yet no alternative or a reason is givenby NelsonRap - Skeinforge
I got the code off of another forum member and it seems to work ok. At the moment because I'm still learning I am at the machine while it prints so if it looks likely to crash I can stop itby NelsonRap - Skeinforge
Does anyone have any idea how much PLA weighs per 100mm or an equivalent, save me cutting up a new roll? As I see SF40 gives me a weight of a printed object and I would like to know how much PLA has been used in a length measurement so that I can cost out my prints.by NelsonRap - General