Nice I printed one but it's nowhere near as nice as your will put up a picture tomorrow. Here is my first attempt, notice the surface dragging under the writing, I don't know what is causing that yet and I need to change my retract settings I think so that the centers of the letters get printed properly. Don't look at the infill overlap I know that is wrong and it's my fault I changed the setby NelsonRap - General
Could you post a link to the file I cannot find it?by NelsonRap - General
Hmm SF41 default layer height is 0.7 must have a bit more of a play with the settings and see what happensby NelsonRap - Skeinforge
What software are you running? What electronics? How are you creating your Gcode? Can you post a picture of your extruder?by NelsonRap - General
Is it wired back to front by some chance I have come across this on another forum where some parts were wired incorrectlyby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I used to be in Kent but moved to NZ 10 years ago otherwise I would have helped youby NelsonRap - General
I would almost be tempted to move North just to see Tangleball at work but I think I won't I much prefer the climate here in Nelsonby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I run an original Mendel and don't get wobbly straight lines, plastics came from mendel parts rest I sourced locally and I run an Adrians extruder on Nema 17 stepper motors with Gen 6 electricsby NelsonRap - General
Sounds like a possible calibration problem. If you print a hollow test square are the sides vertical? Sounds like it just stepping slightly to farby NelsonRap - General
Ignore the instructions for Gen6, I just put them in encase anyone else looks up this thread who might be using Gen6. I honestly don't know about your extruder not going. The start and end codes are typed out in 2 seperate wordpad or notepad documents and saved in (mine is here) C-users-my name-skeinforge-alterations I have called them Gary start.Gcode and Gary end.Gcode On the preface tab itby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I use a drill press on slow speed so that I keep the drill at 90degrees and that makes a huge difference as it is so much more controllableby NelsonRap - General
I use 12V for my Adrians extruder that came from Mendel parts more than enough heat, I run it at 175-180C but it can go well over 220Cby NelsonRap - General
I frame pictures so had some 3mm glass laying around I just cut it to size and use it, I clip the glass in place with bulldog clips then give it a wipe over with kitchen towel and Methylated spirits to remove finger prints and any other contaminantsby NelsonRap - General
Here are my very latest settings that I am using with SF41 and also how I set up my Gen6 E steps for my extruderby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I was born raised out at Brabourne and went to school in Ashford. Well I use Solidworks to create my parts and save them as .stl, however if they are oriented wrongly I flip them using netfabb basic (freeware) as said in the previous post if I need multiples of an object I use the multiply tab in SF, if I want to place several parts together for printing though I create a layout of those parts uby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I also just print straight onto glass placed on my heated bed, I hold it in place with bulldog clips and have 2 pieces so I swap them at the end of each print as I need to let the glass cool to room temp before I can remove the printed objectsby NelsonRap - General
I slipped an 18V chip into my universal laptop charger that powers my bed heater and all is good now I get excellent sticking with PLA, I have to wait for the glass to cool before I can remove prints from the bed. So i have 2 pieces of glass and just swap them at the end of each printby NelsonRap - General
That's cool, are you in the UK? That would explain the time diff. I'm in NZ but originally from Kent. Wht's your next step, I'm guessing mounting the motors. Is the extruder motor moving? I found out that when you hit the print button in Repsnapper you need to turn off the heat first. I'm running it on Windows thoughby NelsonRap - Reprappers
Are you converting the .stl to Gcode first are are you getting Repsnapper to do the conversion or something else. I personally use Skeinforge to convert my .stl files to Gcode then load them into Repsnapper. It might pay to do a screenshotby NelsonRap - Reprappers
What software are you using to do what steps?by NelsonRap - Reprappers
The arduino is a circuit board that drives all of your machine including heating and moving parts using stepper motors. I use Solidworks to do my design stuff but you can also use Google sketchup, inventor, blender and a host of other programs listed in the wiki. Solidworks outputs to .stl natively but if I find the part is not oriented correctly for printing then I use netfabb basic (free) toby NelsonRap - Reprappers
Is anyone using Oozebane in either SF40 or 41? I currently use retract but think that maybe oozebane would be better so thought I would canvas opinion. I still get oozing on some of my smaller prints depending on shape, I'm using a retraction of distance 3mm restart -0.5 at speed of 50mm/s my temperatures are base 200 interface 200 object first layer infill 180 object perimeter 180 object nby NelsonRap - Skeinforge
Not sure if this has been mentioned but if your setting the nozzle temp in Skeinforge then you need to turn off the temperature in Repsnapper before hitting the Print button. At least I have to on my Mendelby NelsonRap - General
Done, thanks for that. Being able to have the profile name on the Gcode helps me keep track of all the profiles I have used. I was manually adding this info before.by NelsonRap - Skeinforge
I have never tried changing any part of SF before, do I just download your module and put it in the SF folder?by NelsonRap - Skeinforge
Try here NEMA17by NelsonRap - Reprappers
Have you considered the 2 motor approach similar to a Prusa for the z axis?by NelsonRap - Reprappers
Should beby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I use Gen6 on Windows7by NelsonRap - Skeinforge