There it is. In the older version we set it, but apparently that is now the default, and not settable short of commenting that line out. A bit odd. Thank you.by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
BOOT_MARLIN_LOGO_SMALL Where did that go as that used to save about 400 bytes of memory?by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
Well, these external mosfets do not like 7hz but are fine with the steady state bang bang.by Dark Alchemist - General
QuoteMMcLure QuoteDark Alchemist Is the ~7hz we get on the avr boards the same as we get on the 100+ mhz ARM boards? The heaters use the same ~7Hz. The other PWM pins (servos, RGB and fans) default to 50Hz on LPC1768 boards.Good to know. Seems my external mosfet doesn't like PID control at 7hz.by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
All I know is that I tried PID (using the AT1284p on the Melzi 2.0) on the red one and it got hot almost instantly but due to the beefier heatsink, and this time I was prepared, I was able to pull the plug before it burnt up. I switched back to bang bang and it never even gets warm which tells me it isn't an amperage dealio it is the switching frequency since bang bang is a steady state. edit:by Dark Alchemist - General
Is the ~7hz we get on the avr boards the same as we get on the 100+ mhz ARM boards?by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteMMcLure QuoteIt's been years since I used Marlin, but IRIC there are variables somewhere that set the PWM frequencies for the bed and hot-end independently, and they default to hundreds or thousands of Hz. At least in recent Marlin this isn't true - the default bed and hot end PWM frequency is around 7Hz, unless you change the setting of SOFT_PWM_SCALE.Yes, BUT is that 7hz for the LPC 1768by Dark Alchemist - General
What is this for a LPC 1768? My board is running at 100mhz vs the 16mhz of the AVR boards but I am unsure if the scale/frequency has changed in Marlin 2.0 for this controller.by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
TDD, it was one like this and I moved to one like this and when I use PID it gets bloody hot as well. I figure it was the frequency that causes it since the new one (the second picture) doesn't even get warm with bang bang on doing 480w. Do you happen to know what I change for the frequency for just the bed pwm frequency in Marlin 2.0? I only found for the fans when I looked and low frequenby Dark Alchemist - General
TDD, I can't do PID to the bed (never could) as my external mosfet gets so hot it did this to me about a year and a half, or so, back and burned up the FET.by Dark Alchemist - General
QuoteMCcarman Looks like a shrinkage effect to me. If it was it would be affected by temperature variation - you think nothing has changed there. Note that cooling fan influence may be more relevant to bang - bang so changing the cooling fan settings may have an influence. Layer print time. It is on the small cube but may not be the same on larger objects. Hmmm - cooling fan on for small layers ?by Dark Alchemist - General
Quotemcdanlj TDD == the_digital_dentist The pillow blocks I'm talking about have set screws (grub screws) to hold the lead screw, and the lead screw would never touch the riser. I have no recollection where I bought them, but is an example of the kind of pillow block I'm talking about. Wouldn't damage a riser block on which it was mounted in any way. I put pillow blocks like that at the top ofby Dark Alchemist - General
It is almost 12mm now and no bulges BUT I can see those dark bands that you always see with ribbing (like in my first photo). 13mm and the bands are there but not at the same distances. See those dark lines? Not sure how, if at all, the cone is affecting it but the bands are not uniform spacing now.by Dark Alchemist - General
Not sure what you meant on that last part about riser as the leadscrews would eat them. I am currently printing a cone 30mm high and not is vase mode, of course, to see what it comes out like. I have not changed any perimeters so apples to apples. If I see the banding/ribbing I will stop it and try to grab a picture but neither of my phones do well up close (macro). edit: Oh, it is over 3mmby Dark Alchemist - General
I am using 2mm pitch leadscrews (T8-2) but the distance between the bulges seems to mach the teeth of a GT2 belt as close as I could eyeball them. I have printed an object 6mm tall and 300mmx220mm and sure enough there it was as well. The layer height used was .24 and the very large object I printed used 0.2mm layer height (not shown) They are straight as no binding and everything lines up butby Dark Alchemist - General
I am not sure if I explained it right but over the last 2.5-3 years I have had no issues. I replaced the nut, and the rods and I have been using bang-bang on all of my printers for the HB and the nozzle's PID I retuned yesterday (after the issue showed up). Here is what I own and the rods/rails I mentioned: edit: Shortly after I purchased it, years ago, I removed the two motors and did a 1 mby Dark Alchemist - General
I just swapped out my leadscrews and nothing has changed so I am not certain this is a Z wobble issue. The printer is a TronXY X5S using a single motor and two leadscrews with 4 smooth rods (two on each side) for stability. What could be the problem to cause that? It looks like Z wobble to me but the new leadscrews are dead straight and they have never been constrained. Oh, and this issue jusby Dark Alchemist - General
Silicone wire is aluminum (forgot about that) so has the same current carrying capacity as the 14ga pure copper but it isn't even warm to the touch now.by Dark Alchemist - Safety & Best Practices
Quoteleadinglights I assume that the spade lugs are crimped on. Crimping is the best way of connecting a wire but it comes with a big BUT. It is only good if it is done right. The metal of the wire and the lug must be deformed sufficiently that there is a large area of contact and, very importantly, the deformation must be plastic: Metals, when bent slightly, will spring back but when deformed paby Dark Alchemist - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteMKSA QuoteDark Alchemist That is the strange part because there is no kinks or bends in it but it does have spade lugs to go into the terminal so with the silicone wire I am not going to use them again. A poor crimp will lead to a poor contact that will worsen due to the heat cycles. Most failures occur at the contacts, not the wire itself unless grossly undersized.Yep, but they haven't disby Dark Alchemist - Safety & Best Practices
Quoteleadinglights There are good engineering reasons not to use wire that is too thick. Insufficiently flexible wires and the addition of moving mass to the bed are points to bear in mind as well. The heating that Dark Alchemist mentions is possibly due to high resistance joint in the connector/crimped terminal/soldered joint at the power supply end. BTW, the 22 AWG (0.327mm²) thin-wall silicby Dark Alchemist - Safety & Best Practices
My bed is 24v at 20amp and this is really weird but I have 14ga stranded wire and near the power supply I noticed some discoloration and the sucker burnt me. I tested it and the wire is about 70c but very strange is that just 100mm away the wire is only warm and near the power fet it is room temp. I just ordered some 12ga silicon wire so that should work considering the wire is less than a meteby Dark Alchemist - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteRoberts_Clif Are you referring to one these #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points #define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE 5 // Z Clearance between multiple probes #define Z_AFTER_PROBING 10 // Z position after probing is done I think so but the problem is that should have nothingby Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
Do you happen to know where in Marlin (I vaguely remember this from the 1.0 days) I can remove the lift Z by 10mm after a G28 Z has finished? It is in here somewhere and it has to go.by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
I don't use those features but using the same configuration settings I just wonder why the 20k more?by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif Well if you want to look at what I have before testing here #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN //#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE #define BLTOUCH #if ENABLED(BLTOUCH) #define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed #endif #define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing #if ENABLED(PROBING_HEATERS_OFF) //#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER /by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif This thread is being read, I have never used a BLTouch. I have used a low profile proximity sensor TL-W3MC2 with Marlin 2.0 that works. I have setup a Marlin 2.0 for BLTouch though it has never been tested. Was going to test on my MPCNC after ordering a BLTouch. An did not respond because of such, did not think you would want untested BLTouch Marlin 2.0 routine settings fromby Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
It would appear this sub is dead so where does one go to ask questions about this and get some answers? Github is not the place for questions.by Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
When I do a Z G28 normally it is instantaneous but in Marlin 2.0 with a BLTouch (both on examples on a SKR V1.3) the pause before anything happens is really long (5-10s) and I wonder why this is? Also when it finally moves Z it is not nearly as smooth as it was before I told it I had a BLTouch. I am not sure why but if I remember back long ago when I had a servo arm probe Z moved at half speedby Dark Alchemist - Firmware - Marlin
Btw, I got Marlin up and running and the print is the most beautiful ABS print I have ever done before. It has to be because it doesn't pause, like the Arduino would do, while printing. Come to find out (there is movement on changing this behavior back) that they removed Marlin from enforcing controls so all of those speeds, accelerations, etc... defaults no longer enforced you so someone couldby Dark Alchemist - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future