There are, but layer separation and warping are a bitch. Once you get it sorted out I don't see any reason to use PLA other than to be environmentally friendly?by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas It functions as endstop only during a a homing (G28) or auto bed level (G29) . If you drive the head further down manually, it could crash into the bed. Reason is, the servo only gets activated during a G28 or G29. Not sure if case is the same for those with inductive or capacitive sensors. Ahh thats pretty cool! With switch-less sensors, you typically have them higher than the prby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas My endstop was at the head cause i was using Auto Bed Levelling. There's a servo just left of the fan to place that endstop into position during Z homing or auto levelling routine. Oh cool, does it still function as the x endstop? QuoteDanmst3k Thanks, Mel0n! The top on the left cube was because I accidently pushed it in with my finger while it was still warm, lol. I'm printing PLby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDanmst3k Thought I'd post a couple photos of some tests. Pretty happy with the quality of this printer so far. The cubes are 20mm and hollow with only 1 layer wall thickness. The one on the right was printed first and is totally smooth. I was having issues with a ripple pattern previously so I tweaked my stepper drivers and that was the result. The weird thing is the cube on the left was priby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
What kind of defect? The gcode should be the same assuming ur using repetier to generate gcode loaded onto the sd card?by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTimJC I setup OctoPrint on my old RPi Model B, but I will be a USB port short if I use WiFi, USB webcam (carppy VGA currently plugged in), and the printer, which should be on my front porch. My options are to get a RPi 2 with 4 USB ports, or use Pi Camera with the older Model B. Does OctoPrint benefit from the added performance of the RPi 2? You have to use a powered USB hub anyways becauby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
WOW the condition of that motor is unacceptable. I would have demanded a replacement before even starting. That connector does not look ok. I am curious what the voltage readings are on your drivers. Also you should check your endstops with Gcode. I think you should make a new thread, and include all the information here, along with pictures and what you have tried. Also get in contact with folgby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine was very noisy and hot at the beginning, constant lubrication to the X-axis reduced it a lot, and I have turned down the voltage a lot. Tensioning the belt will also help. But you wont get rid of it completely without replacing the bearings with bushings. I also found that after printing A LOT, most of my parts have loosened a bit and worked themselves into a place where they are happy. Therby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n Quotetherippa Pics... STL's... Extruder - Hotend holder - The hotend holder's mounting holes didn't line up with the hole on the Folgertech X-carriage, so I just brought out the drill. This weekend's project will be hooking up the fan (easy) and the capacitive sensor (not as easy) to it. I know I said I would post, but at the time you posted, My E3D had a catastrophic failurby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlackbirdIf anyone with FolgerTech is reading this, I suggest adding "inspect your RAMPS board for poor soldering" as an early step in the build manual. I didn't think to do that and really wish I had done it sooner. I would like to improve on this sentence: If anyone with FolgerTech is reading this, I suggest INSPECTING THE RAMPS BOARDS BEFORE YOU SHIP THEM. Mine was fine, but there haveby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] So I went ahead and ordered the 8mm threaded rod. Does anyone know how to modify the firmware to switch from 5mm rods to 400mm Lead Screw 3D Printer Z Axis Lead Screw ACME Lead Screw 8mm Screw Pitch. I plan on printing out the z motor stand offs. Not home to double check if I needed the 300 or 400mm length rods will cut down the 400 if need be. your welcome!by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
I had cleared a few pfte/heatbreak clogs that were caused by PLA in the stock hotend, but those actually make sense given the thermal expansion properties of PLA and crappy design of the stock hotend. I also experienced a few clogs as a result of switching between ABS/PLA. However I never saw a clog from ABS, and theoretically you shouldnt unless its at the nossle, or there is some sort of jam upby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Pics... STL's... Extruder - Hotend holder - The hotend holder's mounting holes didn't line up with the hole on the Folgertech X-carriage, so I just brought out the drill. This weekend's project will be hooking up the fan (easy) and the capacitive sensor (not as easy) to it. I know I said I would post, but at the time you posted, My E3D had a catastrophic failure. The guysby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteblank64 Quoteblank64 QuoteBlackbird Quoteblank64 So I have now finished the build, but am now having some problems trying it out with repetier: (I tried both the marlin included in the drive folder, and the one posted a few pages back) My y-axis motor doesn't seem to be able to turn the belt (it either barely turns, or skips the belt entirely while turning), I used one of the included beltby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach QuoteNeverdone So I finally finished my build the other day. I have loaded the arduino and downloaded the repetier software and done the first 13 pages of the config guide. The last thing I need to do before starting to home and what not is to tune the stepper drivers. This seems to be the part that I find the fuzziest in the instructions. I have read of people just adjusting untilby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAuWiMo Ok I followed mel0n's posts and moved the end stop from the rightmost (7th) pin to the 6th. (to the left 1 pin). I also went into the Repetier Config>printer settings>printer shape> and set HomeX from Min to Max. This gave me full use of all 3 axis. It now homes for all 3 axis. Print head homes to the front right side. Not sure if this will be my final axis configurationby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRedneckGeek Quotemel0n Quote691175002 QuotecorryBiggest issue: to those who say they got the kit assembled in 4 hours are you *SURE* you have those t nuts rotated in the slots 90 degrees? All of them? They're awful. I know misumi's preinstall t nuts cost a bit, but those (m4) post install t nuts are absolute garbage. Spent hours on single bolts sometimes. Was ready to go to the garageby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3but my hotend stopped heating and lost control of bed heating..will up date after replacing... Sounds like a bad FET :[ it was probably correct for them to send you a new Ramps. Hopefully your arduino is ok.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteimqqmi You may have to adjust the motor current first. If all the motors are drawing too much current the steppersticks overheat and temporarily shut down. That may ecplain the inconsistencies. There's a tiny potentiometer on each stepperstick. Adjust them using a non metal screwdriver so that a. The steppermotors are slightly warm to the touch, not making any noise while idle, and making 'mby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 Quotemel0n Quotezarnold16 Quotezarnold16 So here is my first problem that I have received in a while except for some user error with printing. I went to click start on my print via the SD card and my screen blacked out then came back on like this. Now everytime I turn off my printer and turn it back on it comes back when I turn the dial. Okay I still have not figured this out. Iby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 Quotezarnold16 So here is my first problem that I have received in a while except for some user error with printing. I went to click start on my print via the SD card and my screen blacked out then came back on like this. Now everytime I turn off my printer and turn it back on it comes back when I turn the dial. Okay I still have not figured this out. I just broke a blade on myby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote691175002 QuotecorryBiggest issue: to those who say they got the kit assembled in 4 hours are you *SURE* you have those t nuts rotated in the slots 90 degrees? All of them? They're awful. I know misumi's preinstall t nuts cost a bit, but those (m4) post install t nuts are absolute garbage. Spent hours on single bolts sometimes. Was ready to go to the garage make some thermite just to bby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
"Maybe there are conflicts with Windows 10" - all communication is done over serial. So if you can send GCode to the printer, Windows 10 isnt the problem. It may cause other issues, but not direction/endstop issues assuming you can successfully send Gcode. (however crashing, sending a code then freezing, etc is still an issue with windows 10 most likely) My suggestion is, you don't seem to underby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTimJC Before I place an order with FT, are there any spare/extra parts that you guys would recommend adding to the order? I already have the graphical LCD coming from BangGood, so I am thinking more along the lined of stuff like extra nozzles, thermistor, heater cartridges, fans, etc. I would say hot end and extruder parts, though, it makes more sense to just upgrade when yours breaks to oby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteSteve_in_NJ Quotewderoxas QuoteSteve_in_NJ Greetings all, Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info! I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete. 1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed?by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
My Y axis is the quietest on my Folger 2020. My x-axis however....... sounds exactly like that video. And to be honest, I think its cheap bearings and or an alignment issue. It gets louder with resonance, but is still there the whole time regardless. I have tried everything short of replacing the bearings. I thought about bushings, but mine has gotten a lot quieter with time, so it doesnt botherby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] Quotetherippa Well, I got my new E3D V6 Bowden setup up and running today, and just printed a test cube. I can't believe how much better the print quality is compared to the stock hotend. The difference is like using sidewalk chalk vs a fine tip mechanical pencil. Pictures (and if you would STL files for the mount, bowden setup etc.). Would like to replace my hoteby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 Quotemel0n Quotezarnold16 This Kit is starting to make me regret buying it. I have a new 5mm threaded rod on the way because it wouldn't allow a nut to pass over in a certain spot and oiling it didn't help. The extruder won't work. Then lastly I just fried my Arduino and Ramps board. Other than the rod, these seem like user error...... nobody said building a 3d printer was the eby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 This Kit is starting to make me regret buying it. I have a new 5mm threaded rod on the way because it wouldn't allow a nut to pass over in a certain spot and oiling it didn't help. The extruder won't work. Then lastly I just fried my Arduino and Ramps board. Other than the rod, these seem like user error...... nobody said building a 3d printer was the easiest thing in the world.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedbrewski I never tested it with the smaller stepper motor. I designed it using a stepper motor with a lot more torque, but I know of others that have used the smaller stepper motor that came with the kit and had no problems. This might sound crazy, but try using a prefilter on the filament with a little bit of canola or olive oil to lubricate the filament.Filter I don't know if dust was gby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants