I use 100C bed temp for ABS. Just works and I see no reason to lower it. Same for PLA at 55C. Those standoffs look/sound interesting, let us know how it works out! I am already going to gain all that lost Z space and then some with the new E3D and direct extruder design, but I wouldn't mind a little more "Anyone experienced that after leaving a long print running, you find that a layer of yourby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote691175002 I found that if there was even a hint of misalignment the provided bearings would immediately become very rough which leads to a wavy surface finish. I installed the belts and threaded rods as the final step so that I could slide every axis by hand and ensure they were as smooth as possible. There aren't many options if your X axis is rough, but there is room to adjust Y and Z.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote691175002 Alright, finally got some reasonable prints. I am using the enclosure again, but with some tweaks to avoid melting the printer components. My heated bed is now set to 70c for all layers (previously 105c). I I have also turned the X and E steppers down to 0.15V (previously 0.35V) and will probably go even lower. I also leave the door ajar and periodically check the temperatureby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
I have been kinda curious as to where Dan went. His last post was 4 weeks ago, and it seemed like up until then he was pretty regular/active. We haven't really heard anything from anybody at Folger in a while now. They haven't really posted much on their facebook or blog in a long time either. I get all my filament from amazon because of price, shipping, and its easy to find reviews.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
leave filament settings to the slicer/host. All other calibration such as Esteps should be in Firmware. I say this because your Filament changes, your machine's parametrics don't. Filament size makes the biggest difference imo, I usually take 10 or so measurements of the filament with my calipers and average them. I found most filaments are <1.75 and typically around 1.72mm / 1.73mm. Your exby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
straight on glass, Tape is too expensive/annoying as a disposable IMO. I got a triple sized glue stick for 90 cents at Walmart which is going to last a really, really long timeby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRedneckGeek The longer M3 bolts that hold the extruder assembly together were too long. These are the bottom two that go through the fan, heatsink, and extruder and into the motor. The fan and everything was loose. No big deal though, just took about .7mm off the tips of the threaded ends and bolted it all back up. I also epoxied the M5 nuts into the Z/X brackets and while I was doing thby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote691175002 Alright, finally got some reasonable prints. I am using the enclosure again, but with some tweaks to avoid melting the printer components. My heated bed is now set to 70c for all layers (previously 105c). I I have also turned the X and E steppers down to 0.15V (previously 0.35V) and will probably go even lower. I also leave the door ajar and periodically check the temperatureby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote691175002 I went through this a while back and found that the sets weren't effective. A box of 100 screws can cost as little as $4.00 in this size range ( ), and even less if you go to a cheaper/import source. I went to a local fastener supplier and bought 5-6 lengths each from m2, m2.5, m3, m4, m5, and m6 (plus nuts and washers). IIRC it cost $3-6 a box. The sheer amount of time and frby mel0n - General
Quotewderoxas Those brackets are only needed for the Y- idler. You should only get two of those. You got a bunch of them? Standard corner brackets are L-shaped with set screw inside. If they have switched their corner brackets, then you should have a lot of T- nuts too. If this is the case, and you didn't get at least two of those L-shaped corner brackets, then you'll have a problem installing tby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Ahh that sounds cool I will have to check it out. So far I have only been working in Open SCAD because I am a programmer and its easy for me. I need to dive into a 3D modeling application eventually.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotecvanclev Thanks animoose! You've been such a great resource on this forum and in your blog. I'll provide whatever tips and assistance I can when I begin the build later this week. I think you are correct regarding the STLs and unit specification. As a corollary, did you have to manually scale in Reptier/Slic3r? I did no manual scaling, but I did need to tune the parameters a bby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson Add to that, the supply does not have three outputs - it's simply three sets of screws connected to tha same output . . . - Tim Yup got that figured out too, thanks for the reply!by mel0n - General
Does anybody have a good source for metric nuts/bolts? None of the hardware stores around me carry anything metric. I had a bunch of extras in my Folger Tech i3 kit, but I am starting to run dry on hardware and need to order some more. So far the best I can find is this: But its only M4 and up. I am looking for something with a nice assortment of M3 and M4 bolts and nuts. The best I can findby mel0n - General
Yup I am an idiot, 12v * 30A = 360W.... which is what its rated for. I think it could power that LED lamp.by mel0n - General
Does anybody know if this is a 12v or 24v hot end? I assumed 12v so thats what I ordered for my e3d v6 but now I am noticing that the ramps has the 24v connections used on it...by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, I am looking to add some lighting to my printer off one of the 12v connections on the power supply. Here is the power supply: as can be seen in the link : Output Voltage: 12V DC Output Current: 0~30.0A I am curious is that 30A is per output connection, or the PSU as a whole? I currently have 2 of the 3 12v outputs connected to the ramps, and the other one is connected to the extruderby mel0n - General
Acrylic has more wobble, and is easier to break during assembly. Not to mention the possibilities for addons/upgrades/mounting options on 2020 aluminum extrusion.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts What's wrong with the spool holder? One more thing I need to upgrade that I didn't know I needed to.. Lol.. Nothing is necessarily "wrong" with it. It works, just not very good. This explains a lot of the problems associated with filament feeding resistance/path: So first, having the round spool on a square bar already adds some resistance. Putting it on proper bearings allows itby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Is anybody else having issues opening the stl files? I downloaded them to print out a new x-end-motor mount, but I cant get any of the files to open... I am not sure what the issue is. It just keeps saying they don't exist.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotematteatschicken Quotetadawson Hey, would either of you guys that got M3 T Nuts like to part with them? Folger used M3 in the Kossel, and I need a few more for ongoing changes/improvements, and all that I have found for sale are bags of 100 . . . - Tim Sorry buddy, I already redrilled and retapped them because I didn't want to wait on shipping. HAHAHA thats amazing. I would totally have gby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
I have been switching between PLA and ABS. I just spent 30 mins and got the clog cleared. The ptfe is actually fine looking, it was just caked/burnt black ABS that came out of it I think. Ran about 800mm of PLA through it once I got it cleared and I saw little black chunks for at least the first 500mm and it smelled of horrible burnt plastic. I think it will be ok for a print again. Annoying thatby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Got my first bad jam :[ I got the dreaded heat creep up the heat break, and roasted the PLA I was printing with. Got a failed print, very badly jammed heat break, and the teflon/ptfe tubing in the heat break bsaically turned to ash. I have done some researching on it and this hot end is very prone to this sort of thing happening. I will probably upgrade to an e3d after I get this repaired so I cby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
My x-axis motor gets super hot too. I haven't done anything about it. Seems to work and its not melting the ABS part its attached to!by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Cable Chain is done! Had to drill a hole in the aluminum bed for the wires, but anything is better than the way they were hanging off the back of the bed before.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehobbes Quotemsaeger Page 6 says the rear of the vertical beam should be 900mm from the rear of the printer. I made all the corners like you have in the picture flush. Did you make sure the blocks on the X assembly are 300mm apart? or maybe they cut the extrusions the wrong length? thank you for pointing that out. Page 6 does in fact say 90mm from the rear. I somehow missed that. As for thby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenonfish Anyone having extruder issues? Mine was working fine for the first few prints, but now it's making a slow (1-2 a second) rhythmic clicking sound where the filament "skips". If I hold the filament feeding into the extruder and push down, it gets a lot better but still skips occasionally (when it skips, I can feel the filament jump back up at me). The extruder is definitely not layingby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah mine is setup to work the same way in theory. But the printed spacers were a bit tight and I had to work them all up and down the threaded rod a few times to get them to slide on and off, but with 6 spacers total plus the bearings, its impossible to slide the rod through without ripping the stands off the frame, so I just take 1 stand off, then slide everything off 1 side of the rod to changby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Cool, I made this one : It fits the bearings tightly and I found that replacing spools is kinda a pain without removing one of the mounts from the printer. I see yours locks into the rails, let me know how your spool changing process goes! I havent cut my threaded rod shorter yet as I am still debating weather or not I want it to hold 2 spools.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants