Quotetempest Quoteawesomed1 Another thing, where are you sourcing the nuts and bolts? When I was doing this with a friend, it cost ~ $20 each to order from Boltdepot (except for t slot nuts from Aliexpress). But for only one person its ~ $30. This is probably too late, but I just found my answer to this. For everything but the t-nuts and matching bolts (aliexpress), I am buying from MrMetric.com.by awesomed1 - Reprappers
Thanks I just checked my gearbest order and it's still processing. I'll probably cancel the order for that and the electronics and order them somewhere else tonight..by awesomed1 - Reprappers
@tempest If you are using the same kit for the electronics as I am, you might want to pick one that had more orders with a similar shipping time, since after 5 days it still didn't ship yet. Just something to look into.by awesomed1 - Reprappers
Quotetempest Just a warning in case you used the same vendor as I did. The lead screw kit that I purchased from the eBay link in my bom is out of spec. The brass nut's internal diameter is around 0.2mm larger than the 8mm trapezoidal spec allows. This makes the nut *very* loose. Now I need to source just the nuts... Tricky. Thanks for the heads up. Good idea going to Ace hardware.by awesomed1 - Reprappers
QuoteGiantkiller Expensive fires are caused by cheap incendiaries. I don't think i would start a fire; the power supply could easily handle that kind of load. Anyways, I have a friend that has an extra atx power supply. Even though it isn't as good, I think a dedicated power supply is a good idea so I'm using it instead.by awesomed1 - Reprappers
Quotecozmicray This is NOT a good idea! Maybe use computer power supply to power coffee maker and toaster? With power supplies being so inexpensive' Separate power supply and the isolation better Long high current wiring + high current connectors not optimal Fritz the supply --- No computer, No printer Well, this option saves me at least $25 and since nothing is going to blow up, I don'by awesomed1 - Reprappers
@msaeger Interesting, I'll have to look into PETG. Thanks for the recommendation.by awesomed1 - Printing
Thanks. I'll probably stick to PLA until something comes up where I need ABS. Now I have to decide to get purple or yellow filament at a cheaper price or pay extra for better colors .by awesomed1 - Printing
I recently found an ebay listing selling 1kg rolls of ABS and PLA for $15 each, and if you buy 3 you get a 4th roll for free. So the price per roll is effectivly $11.25. I was wondering if I would see a difference between this and something like Inland filament from Microcenter. Also, the only color left that I would get is green, which is only available in ABS. Since I am new to printing I wby awesomed1 - Printing
Quoteo_lampe QuoteIs there a better way to distribute the wires? Sounds good to me. Some people also use a 5v wire to power the boards logic ( and servos etc. ) You could feed 5V to an empty endstop header or a servo header, but you have to disconnect "D1" on the Ramps before. -Olaf Thanks, I knew that I could power the servo by hooking up a 5V wire there, but I didn't know I would have to dby awesomed1 - Reprappers
@o_lampe Ok thanks. I was thinking of getting two six pin pcie extensions and sacrificing those, meaning I would have 6 12V and 6 ground wires, and then give the 11A input 4 wires and the 5A input 2 wires. Is there a better way to distribute the wires?by awesomed1 - Reprappers
The title says it all, I want to use one power supply to power both a printer and a computer. Specifically, I already have a Corsair CX 500M, which can deliver 38 amps on its 12 volt rail. My computer has Haswell i5 and no graphics card. Pcpartpicker says it should consume ~180W at peak load, which I wouldn't run it at if the printer was also running. I was thinking of sacrificing the 6+2 pciby awesomed1 - Reprappers
You are probably right about Rice not being able to supply the kit all of the time, and as of yesterday I didn't see anything on his eBay store. The extra sturdiness and 10mm rods are the reason I went with the Wilson II over the TS. I haven't heard anything about less noise or better prints, but I would imagine it's true since the lead screws are more precise Han threaded rods and the thickerby awesomed1 - Reprappers
@tempest I think there are 3 fans. One 30mm fan to cool the hotend, one 40mm fan to cool the print as it is printed, and one 80mm fan to cool the ramps and other electronics. The fan in this picture is for cooling the print with the fan duct and you can barely see the fan on the hotend cooling it down, so both are needed. Thanks for the link to the tindie store. His most likely uses higher qby awesomed1 - Reprappers
@SignGuy Thanks for the info. What price are kits going for? I didn't see any on ebay (I didn't really look to hard either ).by awesomed1 - Reprappers
For the smooth rods I think going with McMaster is the cheapest option I saw at $33, including $10 for shipping (lets hope shipping isn't more than that). For the extra amperage required, I think Marty Rice up his 2 heatbeds in parallel, meaning it doesn't use any more voltage, but twice the current. He just put a heatsink on the mosfet and it seemed to do fine. I'll probably look into solid sby awesomed1 - Reprappers
Again a life saver; the linear bearings are probably from when this BOM was for the Wilson TS. Thanks! I'll (hopefully) remember to change that later. I'm probably going to start ordering parts in the next day or two (also trying to finish before Christmas / the end of the year). I have seen a lot of people go for larger build volumes than the standard 200x300x200 mm, and I think I'm going toby awesomed1 - Reprappers
Wow I want to see how these turn out. It kinda makes me want to build a bigger printer .by awesomed1 - Prusa i3 and variants
@phibez3000 I've definitely seen 300x300mm heatbeds on ebay, but as I remember it they weren't cheap and I don't know how much shipping to Australia is. Just out of curiosity, do you have a specific need for the larger bed size?by awesomed1 - Prusa i3 and variants
If you are wary of the Aliexpress listing for the electronics, I saw a kit on Amazon that was "Fulfilled by Amazon" and my understanding is that they do returns, not the original seller. I agree that getting all of the electronics seems shady, but Aliexpress's return / refunds program doesn't seem that bad. Also, some people said that they called their credit card company which refunded the payby awesomed1 - Reprappers
Those are easier to find, cheaper, and more versatile, since they would fit on most any Prusa i3. Also, I would rarely print something that large, so I opted to go for a 200x200mm heatbed. If you find a not crazy expensive 200x300mm heatbed I would appreciate the link. Also, I haven't solidified my power supply, and until I do I might not be able to get a larger heatbed. Edit: I noticed thatby awesomed1 - Reprappers
@phibez3000 Just wanted to put it out there that I am in now way anywhere near an expert on any of this, and I'm also going to (hopefully) build a Wilson II soon. 1. I haven't seen a spec regarding pulley depth/guage, and any pulley branded as for a Prusa i3 should do fine. Easyreprap has a set of pulleys and belt for a good price. 2. For motors, the extruder needs a high torque motor, but tby awesomed1 - Prusa i3 and variants
The Wilson II uses a lead screw instead of threaded rod. The BOM was originally for the Wilson TS, and when I changed the link and description to the THSL-300-8D, I forgot to change the name from Threaded rod to Lead screw. I'm pretty sure the printed parts are made to use the lead screw and lead screw nut rather than a rod, so I would just stick to something like the THSL-300-8D (which Rice reby awesomed1 - Reprappers
@tempest From a few posts on these forums, most people recommend 88625K69, 5544T312, or 6112K47. I decided to go with the cheapest option since it seemed popular and didn't break the bank, but yes the 6112K47 would be better (if I had the money). I'm still debating on where to buy the smooth rods and which ones to buy. I included shipping from everywhere that had shipping prices without me neby awesomed1 - Reprappers
Hello, I am new to 3d printing and decided on sourcing all of the parts for a Wilson II rather than going with a kit, since I felt like I would get more out of the experience. I think my BOM covers everything, but I am not sure and would appreciate it if someone looked it over. Also, I don't know if i cheaped out / spent too much on some of the parts (ex. getting the 2560, lcd, RAMPS, and stepby awesomed1 - Reprappers