Anyone know the name or style of this extruder? Do other manufacturers use it? Or is it basically just known as an "underpowered, direct drive extruder"? Lol There are a lot of variations of this upgrade available: They all seem to use a grooved drive gear and flat bearing rather than the flat drive gear and grooved bearing that Folger supplies but I wonder if it would be possible to adapt thby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quoteenzo1027 Quotedbrewski Quoteenzo1027 I need some assistance from anyone who feels like offering. I am experiencing some issues mid-print where it will just stop completely. Twice in the past week I've left Johnny5 printing, and come back to the extruder in some random spot in the print just sitting there. My LCD is back at its main screen, and the bed and extruder stay on. Has anyone else haby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
I am trying out this little beauty right now and it has definitely improved my extruder's ability to bridge. It simply ducts air from the 40 mm fan that cools the extruder's hear sink and directs some of that air underneath the hot end. The openings of the ducts do point at the hot end but don't seem to be having a detrimental effect on its performance. I printed this test bridge (http://wwby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotekrwynn QuoteChris Rap I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem.by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChris Rap I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem. Now, I doby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
This is the extruder that Folger supplies. Is it even a true MK8? Don't MK8 extruders have a spring loaded idler?by Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotekrwynn QuoteVanbot the hotend Folger supplies isn't very good. :-) You continually say stuff like this which could give someone the wrong impression. I have had no problems with my hotend, clicking or anything else. My full graphics contoller worked 5 minutes after I followed the guidance (Toms) and has worked flawlessly ever sense. I do but I'm certainly not the only person saying thingsby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead The hotend they supply isn't very reliable. I've heard and known this for a bit but was hoping to not have to drop some $$$ on a better hotend, even though no more jams would make it worth it. I assumed someone out there would have designed a geared version of this Folger extruder. The Folger kit supplies tiny 2.6 kg/cm steppers so gearing it down for more torque seems liby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotewidespreaddeadhead QuoteVanbot OK could this be caused by the hot end not melting filament fast enough to keep up with the drive gear? That is, my drive gear speed is set a little fast? It only does it occasionally so if it was extruder feed set too fast wouldn't it click all the time? Anyone else with a Folger i3 have this issue? I'm using all of their settings, including feed speed. I havby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotewidespreaddeadhead My hotend stopped extruding and I now have the dreaded clicking. I found a broken piece of filament under the drive gear and removed it and tried to extrude some ABS, however the filament makes it to the hotend but never out the nozzle. The nozzle is still bleeding a little bit but I can't get a line to extrude, only clicking. I'm guessing there is a clog, but I tried to sby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteEcky DriftyDave: You need diode D1 on the Ramps board to power the Arduino from the Ramps board. My board has this diode and I don't need the USB cable plugged in. Do a search for more info on the diode. Thanks Ecky. When I get a replacement Full Graphics controller from Dan at Folger I'll try your firmware out.by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
OK could this be caused by the hot end not melting filament fast enough to keep up with the drive gear? That is, my drive gear speed is set a little fast? It only does it occasionally so if it was extruder feed set too fast wouldn't it click all the time? Anyone else with a Folger i3 have this issue? I'm using all of their settings, including feed speed.by Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteDriftyDave Quotepabloevaristo Great, I've been having issues with that thing too... Could you post some photos of the adjustment process. Thanks! First loosen the 8 nuts that attach the bed frame to the acrylic frame. Raise the extruder to 35mm and move the heated bed to about 100mm. Place the glass up against the X axis smooth rods as shown in the picture. Then use a decent square to chby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetijeff I was having Stability issue while running Slicr3r Crashes on some STL files Crash more if more config are saved Crash in Windows 7 or 8 Crash on 3 diferent PC Ive try for fun Running Slicr3r In a VirtualBox VM , under Ubuntu Never crashes , and render time is half the time it was before Guess is wasn't intended to run in windows at first ! Any other one got similar resultby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteDan_FolgerTech Hey Guys, I just wanted to comment to Vanbot. I try to pop in here when I can but we have been so overwhelmed that I haven't had as much of an opportunity lately and for that I apologize. We are working on a FAQ page on the website, an updated build guide, and possibly forums of our own! These first 2 kits were definitely a learning experience for us and we definitely leaby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebenjarick I'm going to try printing it in the morning so I don't wake housemates, but one odd thing I noticed is that the analyzer says that it's a 33.31 x 33.31 x 9.60 box, when I specifically downloaded the 20mm box that also shows up as precisely 2 cm on the bed grid rendered in Repetier. I did take out all jumpers and put them back in to make sure that they all had a tight connection,by Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotelunarkingdom if you are talking about direct drive ones that come with 500 dollar printers my opinion is that they suck and were designed to print just good enough to call the kit complete as it goes out the door to your home. I suggest an upgrade to both 3mm filament and a bulldog xl extruder, furthermore I suggest an E3D style hotend with fan and fan mount, they can be found on ebay for arby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotebenjarick I have the ebay Folger Tech Prusa i3 kit. It has been built very carefully and precisely to the instructions. Nothing is awry with any of the wiring. All manual controls work. I have now checked 7 times to make sure that my settings are perfectly aligned with the configuration manual found in the Google Drive link that is provided on the Folger Tech site for their Prusa i3 kitby Vanbot - Reprappers
Just wondering what the general consensus, if any, is on these hot ends. I've seen the minimalist upgrade that is available on Thigiverse. I actually made one but I don't think the spring I used was strong enough so it didn't feed filament very well. Anyone see any other good upgrades for these?by Vanbot - Reprappers
My MK8 extruder makes a fairly loud clicking sound at times. The clicks are fairly slow, maybe one per second although they're not regular or constant. When I touch the filament just above the extruder I can feel the clicks in the filament. I haven't been able to correlate the clicks with anything the printer is actually doing other than that it mostly occurs during rapid back and forth movementsby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier Acrylic frames are rubbish. Otherwise, there's good and bad about this kit. Good : hotend, leadscrews, belt tensioning. Bad : acrylic frame and parts, extruder, bearings. I've got an acrylic frame and while I'm sure it's not perfect it's not bad at all. In fact its one of the few things with my printer about which I have no complaints. :-) I plan on adding some supports to increasby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethe_digital_dentist If a little wobble in a 5mm dia screw causes the frame to flex, then the frame is poorly designed/built, too. Jeez, it's no wonder these things aren't ready for consumer use. Instead of getting more reliable, they're getting cheaper and harder to operate because you have to worry about this sort of nonsense created by stripping out quality in favor of the cheapest way tby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotechris33 because industrial lead/ball screws are engineered to be straight but m5 threaded bar isnt, thats why you see in industrial lead/ball screws can be captive, i should know i work with cncs for my job, and had my i3 for 2 and half years way before all the different variations was out trying to improve it and digital dentist you will never find a straight pieceby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteEcky Folger should host a thread like this for their machines at their website to centralize knowledge with them. But that would drive the cost of doing business up and that would impact the cost of the printers. One thing we shouldn't lose sight of is that these printers are, for the lack of a better word, "toys" and though they can do some neat things they are not really tools for prodby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHephaestus0000 I wish I had the slightest clue what you were referring to. I can barely make my way to the end of my street without getting lost haha. I get pretty lost in New West too. Steve's talking about the Vancouver Hackspace. You pay $30/month and during times that it's open you can come and use any of the tools (lathe, laser cutter, Tinkerine 3d printer, sewing machines, elecby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteblabbersnitch A very useful guide. I referred to it myself on a number of occasions (and also before starting on my build, to get a feel for the complexity of the project). So, on behalf of all the people that have found it helpful that you never hear from, thanks. Yep Steve's Instructable is required reading for sure. Well organized and explains how things work.by Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotehockey9999 Placed an order for my Folger Prusa i3 on Monday, along with the full graphics LCD. The 10+ day wait is going to be painful! This will be my first 3D printer, looking forward to the build I've already skimmed through the entire thread, and am now reading it more thoroughly for a second time, up to page 20... I think the only other things I need are glass and filament. What is bby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteEcky It would be cool to know where we all live. I am in a suburb of Montreal, Canada. Vancouver. And I love Montreal too. :-)by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteeviltoy Will do thanks for all the help guys If your Full Graphics card is like mine then it won't read the SD card because the contacts in the card don't contact those in the reader unless you bend the card upwards. But don't bend the card upwards, by the way, since I did that with mine and now have a broken 16 GB SD card and possibly a broken SD reader in my laptop because it doesn't worby Vanbot - Reprappers
So I got some help getting my Full Graphic Smart Controller to connect to my Folger i3 last night and I can now control the printer from the LCD panel. But some other issues have come up. First the LCD's card reader won't read an SD unless I bend and hold the end of the SD upwards about a quarter inch or more. Obviously the contacts on the SD aren't contacting those in the reader when it slidesby Vanbot - Reprappers