QuoteEcky Have a look here. In this case the supplier had his own tubing. The tubing I am suggesting is the large diameter, 1/8" ID, one. Car parts places will certainly have a rubber, neoprene, version as well. I am cautious about proximity sensors as they don't react to glass as well a metallic surface. Perhaps it would be best to kill 2 birds with one stone and buy the above mentioned kby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotedrmaestro Hi, I have been using the Sigma 3D printer for a year now and recently its creators decided to make it opensource. Here is the link to download plastic parts and the bill of materials: They have given a link to my blog for assembly instructions (I was neglecting it for a while due to my busy schedule but this has given me incentive to update it (http://www.3dprinterblog.org/)by Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteEcky Vanbot: Saw a guy selling aluminum hot beds and using some rubber/ silicone tubing as a spring. Go to a hobby shop that sells gas model airplane engines and buy a piece of large size silicone tubing and cut it to the length of the spring you want to buy. Or go online and order from Great Hobbies, Silicone tubing. I am suggesting silicone as it is heat resistant. Rubber would probablby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotechromecarz00 I tried some of the solutions above and the motors do move after homed, but this is what happens. Settings are also included... Where are your end stops located on the printer and which slots on the RAMPS are they plugged into? I think maybe you need to try changing the way they are plugged in. Unless you have already tried that?by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
OK I don't like acrylic frames anymore. At least not acrylic bed frames. Mine broke with a minor impact.by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteskynetprinter I have a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, and it used to be easy to level, but nowdays, when i tighten corner, the other corner goes up. I just spent 30 minutes trying to level it. i got every corner perfectly level about 10 times, and while i did that the other sides of the heatbed would change by 2-3 millimeters. The acrylic base of the heatbed, under the screws, seems to be a littleby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotegordonendersby Ive been looking at lead screws recently. Is the fine 1.5mm pitch desireable over the 2mm pitch screws? After using 8mm x 1.25mm stainless threaded rod which has turned out to be pretty good with very regular cut threads. Im wondering how good in comparison 8mm x2mm pitch lead screw would be. 1.5mm doesnt seem as easy to get hold of but loads of 8mm x 2mm pitch. Gordon Weby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotedbrewski Almost done. Just finishing up tolerances and test fitting. Here is a look at the overall assembly. I honestly don't know if it will be any lighter than a geared wade extruder. It does do a good job of maintaining z height build volume and it will take minimal extra hardware to get it up and running. Once I get the green light from Tardis I'll post it here. Looking good. Regarby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChris Rap Not sandpaper - but not too far off the mark. It has a self-ignition point at the ABS range... and the "high-temp PLA" range so it cannot be used for all things. The strings in my case were retraction based because I didn't get the settings right and I use higher temperature so I can print without clicking. If the extruder is not printing it tends to ooze a fair amount... but withby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Reggie, Which brand is your kit?by Vanbot - Reprappers
I just tried ordering the McMaster Carr 9657K155 springs that others are using to upgrade their bed springs and got the following message from the vendor: "Due to the complexity of US export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from businesses...We are unable to provide a quotation or accept your order." Huh? Didn't NAFTA make all of this a piece of cake? Isn't that whyby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteChris Rap QuoteVanbot Chris, did you calibrate your extruder steps? I haven't done that yet and a wondering if that's one reason I'm not getting great results. No, I did a very thin wall part and had more strings than normal with Cura so I need to dial the slicer in. It slices and works without strings on Repetier. Objects like the treefrog require proper cooling and I don't have that, so Iby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Chris, did you calibrate your extruder steps? I haven't done that yet and a wondering if that's one reason I'm not getting great results.by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDatRoboticsGuy I was not aware of this. Thank you! Hope it helps.by Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteDatRoboticsGuy Yeah, I've checked on Ultimaker before and was unable to find anything. I just checked on Tinkerine and it was the same story. I suppose I could contact them and ask, but there is no guarantees with that, and it'll probably take a while and I can gather more (probably better informed) opinions from here! I believe there's a BOM out there for people to build their own Ultimakeby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteDatRoboticsGuy Hello Fellow RepRappers, I am in the process of designing and building my own custom 3D printer, and I have run into a bit of a road block when it comes to finding a Z-axis leadscrew. I have spent several days researching and searching for a good leadscrew, and I have a pretty good idea of what I want, but every time I find something close, I notice the specs are missing or aby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteChris Rap I got mine assembled and working back three weeks ago now, about same time as you got yours. I printed a filament guide, but other than that... all stock parts. Printed up lots of stuff and need to buy a few more kg of filament since I been going through it so quickly. Printing out some larger models now and just made my first little treefrog. Using Cura for complex prints since reby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChris Rap Vanbot - you got your machine dialed in yet? Getting there. :-) Folger mailed out the replacement LCD yesterday. I've ordered a new hexagon hotend and Steve Roy is helping me build a new extruder to hopefully do away with that awful clicking. I've replaced those tiny little springs for suspending the heated bed with some bigger, stronger ones which has made bed leveling easierby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenck2000 I keep repeating the extruder button but it won't grab on the filament and pull it in. It feels like its running backward because if i push backward it tends to push it upwards and back down again like its getting hit with a gear, I really don't know what im doing wrong. Well it is possible that the extruder stepper is running backwards. Unplug the motor connector from the RAMPS, tuby Vanbot - Reprappers
Do any of the LED's on the printer's RAMPS board or Arduino light up when you plug in the USB cable?by Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotenck2000 HI, I have assembled a folger tech prusa I3. Everything seems to be working fine up to the point of putting in the filament. The right hole just wont grab it, the left hole did gab and pushed filament through the hole and hitting the top of the hot end. Is one hole supposed to grab or do both grab? With mine the right hand hole is THE hole but all you want is to make sure you're feeby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotechromecarz00 Update - got the heaters to both work. The first time that extruder comes on, it is smelly! Now I need to know why the motors don't move unless commanded home, and don't stop at the end stop when it hits them. As far as I know the motors aren't supposed to move unless they've been homed first. Mine has always operated that way. As far as the carriages not stopping when theyby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotechromecarz00 QuoteEcky Get one here: Docs on google drive Got it, thanks. Now the motors don't stop when hitting the end stop and make the belt skip, nothing moves except when hitting the home button in repetir manually, extruder has never been turned on but shows at 308.7 degrees C. Ideas? From my experience building a Folger i3, I'd check a couple of things: 1. The Folger manual advisby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteadam_tigger04 Hello folks. I am very excited to start the blog for my ongoing printer. It goes against most advice to start small and muck around with a prusa then spend more money later on the printer i wanted. So far i have the cupboard, linear bearings and all the moving parts. The hot bits will have to wait for a.little while for financial reasons. We have just spent more than doubleby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quote55rebel It would seem that Slic3r is a bit retarded, when it comes to support material... Anyone know of another slicer/program that does not suffer from these issues? Thanks Cura?by Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteChris Rap I've printed the chunky bracelet - you will need to scale it up. My wife could not wear the default configuration one because it was too small. I printed some corners, and other stuff today. Gonna make the Fishing Rod Rack by tonay88 from Thingiverse next. It is fishing season after all. To get to the questions you asked, I assembled it as directed. The origin I have on my machinby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFloyd I use a sponge filter on my line and it catches a buch of junk from dust and all. If I was running PLA id oil it too but for ABS I dont bother. Thanks Floyd. Any noticeable difference in print quality or just peace of mind?by Vanbot - Reprappers
Anyone tried using one of these filament filters? I've been reading about people having improved results by using one of these to clean and apply mineral oil to their filament.by Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteChris Rap Vanbot - I didn't modify any the firmware settings and I didn't have any issue - the manual from Folger Tech gives what sounds like contradictory information, but a picture shows how to configure it to the Ramps and the text (no picture) says to set it up as such. Printing at .4 layers at 60 mm/s + extrusion speed results in clicking do to improper filament melting. This is the Aby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBobyni QuoteVanbot Quoteenzo1027 Quotedbrewski Quoteenzo1027 I need some assistance from anyone who feels like offering. I am experiencing some issues mid-print where it will just stop completely. Twice in the past week I've left Johnny5 printing, and come back to the extruder in some random spot in the print just sitting there. My LCD is back at its main screen, and the bed and extruder staby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants