QuoteFiddleback Hi, first-time poster here. Finished assembly of my 2020 i3 yesterday, and I'm trying to put plastic down. My hotend has no problem getting up to temp, but my glass plate won't go above 108.5 C. I do see the heat board slightly bowed, so I do plan on remedying that tomorrow. In the meantime, would a 7 degree heat deficit be enough to prevent a print from starting? I have successfby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone else having issues with their display... This will happen during a print, I'm normally printing from SD card and that doesn't interrupt anything, just lose functionality of the display. When the print is done removing the SD card will reset the issue. It's not the card itself as it happens even when I print via USB....by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach For those that have done upgrades using openbuilds' v-slot rail, will openbuilds delrin wheels work on the extrusion that folger tech made our printers out of? I don't see why not, should be standard 20mm v slot.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander QuoteLancelotL Oh and one more thing. Any suggestions for getting the old throat out of the heater block? I think the Hulk inserted mine along with the extruder tip which was darn near impossible to get off too. Have you tried heat; try print temperature. I have a partially disassembled hotend in a 'parts dish' that may need the toaster oven before I take it apart. Do you haveby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMonolithTyriss Well, cheap chinese bearings or not.. I'm having a bearing issue I need worked out! Putting my 2020 together, I notice I've got nothing for tightening those m3 nylock nuts! So a while later, I finally get some tools at the hardware store for doing just that! So, onto the build right? WRONG! The LM8UU bearings only fit into 2 of the 3 bearing holders for the Y carriage basby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotestanger2k Quotemarc2912 Quotestanger2k Is this the correct part for the sonny tech x-axis? Does anybody have a cheaper/better place to buy the bearing? You didn't put a link to the uprade so I can't tell you if it's the right one but good bearings are expensive, there is no way around that. Cheap bearing will be just that, cheap. This is a part you don't want to be cheap on. Can youby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotestanger2k Is this the correct part for the sonny tech x-axis? Does anybody have a cheaper/better place to buy the bearing? You didn't put a link to the uprade so I can't tell you if it's the right one but good bearings are expensive, there is no way around that. Cheap bearing will be just that, cheap. This is a part you don't want to be cheap on.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteGrouchoDuke Alright, can somebody give me some jam advice? I pulled apart my hot end to fix a jam/clog. The nozzle itself is clear, but the liner on the hot side of the heat break is sticking out quite a bit. Has anyone seen this before? I've been printing mostly PETG at 245C for the last couple months. Did that kill the stock hot end? Thanks for the help! Quotetjnamtiw Fby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma I wrote up some more details about my experiences setting up auto level on my blog: I also included links at the end to a number of other sources of information that I relied on when figuring out how to get it working. Please feel free to point out anything I left out or any glaring errors - I just tossed this post together since it's such a popular topic. I didn't try to rehby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma Quotemarc2912 What material can the sensor work with? What happens if you cover the glass with spray or blue tape? An inductive sensor needs metal. It works best with ferrous metal like steel, but can detect aluminum as well. I use hairspray on my glass but there'd be no problem with glue or blue tape either...unless... If you're using a 4mm distance sensor then it may not be sby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma Quotemarc2912 I'd like to run an informal poll here. I wish the forum had an easy way to run a poll within a thread... Are you running a bed leveling system and if so which? Thanks Like you I found I had to relevel almost every time I touched the bed. So I ended up going autolevel. I started with the 4mm distance sensor from Folger and a sheet of 28ga galvanized steel under myby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Why are you guys ordering extruders? You have a 3d printer sitting right next to you... Because for the extruder I wanted to go all metal.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Is there any reason not to use a stainless feed gear as a replacement? By the way, thanks for the heads-up. Folger Tech sells a replacement described as steel. Personally I wouldn't order anything other than the printer on FT's site. They're a great starting point but past that their prices and quality are not really competitive. As for getting a new one look at productsby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA Has anyone else had issues with the stock Folger extruder drive gear becoming worn? I've had my printer for about 2+ months and have run maybe 21/2 spools through. 1 spool PLA, 1 spool PETG and a bit of ABS. In the last week or so I've noticed a lot of clicking from the extruder and the prints are becoming pretty bad. Examining the gear shows there is hardly any "tooth" left. They arby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotemarc2912 I'd like to run an informal poll here. I wish the forum had an easy way to run a poll within a thread... Are you running a bed leveling system and if so which? Thanks Not running a bed levelling system. I slightly changed to bed adjustment screws to make them easier to adjust and added a bolt to the X motor carrier to adjust the Z height. Happy with this. I find thby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd like to run an informal poll here. I wish the forum had an easy way to run a poll within a thread... Are you running a bed leveling system and if so which? Thanksby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander QuotejagThanks Everyone. I figured this had been covered before, but apparently my search and Google-Fu skills are lacking. Overall I'm pleased with FolgerTech product and support (they quickly sent a replacement for broken part), but I agree that it would save a lot of time to have the correct configuration.h settings and a single google drive. I change the firmware with every nby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D Quotemarc2912 QuoteUltiFix Quotemarc2912 Quotejag My FolgerTech 2020 i3 printer was working great except for 2 issues. Prints were 4% short on the Z-axis, and on some prints it was clear that filament volume was too low. I fixed both my changing DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h Here's my question: Why does the firmware on the FolgerTech Google drive have these settingsby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemarc2912 Quotejag My FolgerTech 2020 i3 printer was working great except for 2 issues. Prints were 4% short on the Z-axis, and on some prints it was clear that filament volume was too low. I fixed both my changing DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h Here's my question: Why does the firmware on the FolgerTech Google drive have these settings: {80,80,3840,90} ? My prby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejag My FolgerTech 2020 i3 printer was working great except for 2 issues. Prints were 4% short on the Z-axis, and on some prints it was clear that filament volume was too low. I fixed both my changing DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h Here's my question: Why does the firmware on the FolgerTech Google drive have these settings: {80,80,3840,90} ? My printer works much better witby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBoffster QuoteSteveRoy I usually use for a better estimate Bookmarked! Thanks for the link! Just tried it on a print I ran Wednesday. Actual Print time 12 hours and 28 minutes. gcode.ws "Estimated print time: 9:0:52", that's over a 30% discrepancy Repetier Server "9h 30m 36s" closer but still around 30% off. Overall still can't find something to be even close to accurate prinby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma Quoteflatlander Mine came with threads on top not the fine little hole you have...hence the need for a fitting up top. Yeah, that's a little different. Could probably print a little adapter to screw into that. Or use a bowden fitting, I'm guessing that's why it was designed like that so you could run a tube off either end. correct that's if you're using it as a bowden extruder.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for all the e3d extruder option guys.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Quotemarc2912 I noticed someone else mention it on here. I have an E3D with the stock extruder. I had to remove the aluminum block that sits under the extruder that the heat block screws into. I was going to upgrade my extruder to this from ebay but the block isn't removable and I won't be able to attach the hotend. What are people running with an E3D that is NOT a bowden extrby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
I noticed someone else mention it on here. I have an E3D with the stock extruder. I had to remove the aluminum block that sits under the extruder that the heat block screws into. I was going to upgrade my extruder to this from ebay but the block isn't removable and I won't be able to attach the hotend. What are people running with an E3D that is NOT a bowden extruder.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Am i the only one that finds the FT belt idler bearing to be utter crap. Mine have split open and spewed grease everywhere, broke and overall are terrible. Going to switch to idler pulley soon, just wanted to get everyone else's opinion on them.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotefallsgeek Just purchased and built a Folger Tech Prusa i3 2020 kit. It seems to be doing well and I've dialed in most things but one problem. My lines are a bit wavy. I can visibly see the flow pulsate from the nozzle. I'm printing with 1.75mm ABS. This happens in all layers. I've tried slowing down print speed, and changing the extrusion multiplier higher to 1.05 and 1.1. Nothing seems toby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Quotemarc2912 Quoteflatlander Quotemarc2912 Thanks Andrew, already tried that, it's not skipping or if it is it's doing it still even though I increased the current twice. Is the extruder temperature or bed over-running because of odd thermistor behavior? If it's not alignment, the plastic is too hot causing slumping. Did you lose some bearings on your y-axis rails? Usb/seriaby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Quotemarc2912 Thanks Andrew, already tried that, it's not skipping or if it is it's doing it still even though I increased the current twice. Is the extruder temperature or bed over-running because of odd thermistor behavior? If it's not alignment, the plastic is too hot causing slumping. Did you lose some bearings on your y-axis rails? Usb/serial communication errors? I thiby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar Quotemarc2912 Hey Guys, So looking for a little help for those that have done upgrades... I did a few upgrades at once.. I learned that's probably not a good idea because now I don't know what's causing my issues. I have ideas but no real answers. Things upgraded: Z axis V-slot - changed to longer pieces Z Axis Round bar - changed 5mm bars to the longer one I had from Y upgraby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants