I've checked the ref voltages and used M906 to change them, which seems to work. X-ref is a lot lower than the others. With M906 800 I see ~.4V on most, ~.1 on X. When I get back to the printer today I plan to check if I'm seeing activity on enable and step.by maso - Duet
After further investigation, I've discovered an intermittent connection on the ground within the "5V standby" lines to my ATX supply. I don't think the Schottky diodes would allow that to spike a negative voltage or anything, but at this point I'm betting that something has fried the drivers. I'll probe some lines on the board tomorrow.by maso - Duet
Interesting! That extruder design is something unique. I think the dual extrusion portion is particularly cool. I've been thinking about replacing the airtrippers on one of my printers, and will have to look more closely at that. And I can see where detecting the last bit of filament in a print could be useful for swapping in a new spool. I'll definitely be thinking about this one.by maso - Duet
M119 works fine. But G91, followed by G1 S2 X10 reveals no movement. Same for G1 S2 Y10 and G1 S2 Z10 And I see no movement on the extruder when I heat the hotend and use G1 S2 E10by maso - Duet
Both. I use the web interface mostly, but when I'm printing a gift of some sort I use Octoprint so that it will capture a timelapse as well. The Octoprint machine is pretty slow though, so I don't trust it for most of my prints.by maso - Duet
The problem began with 1.12, so I'm not thinking 1.13 is suspect at all. I'm fearing I've had some hardware failure. And no, none of the carriages move at all. Here's what's in my homedelta.g: Quote; Homing file for RepRapFirmware on Mini Kossel G91 ; use relative positioning ;******* Change F250 in the following line to F2500 when you are finished commissioning ;******* Change 320 in theby maso - Duet
I've been using the Duet 0.6 for the last few months, and have really been enjoying it. Then, last week, I started having issues of my ATX supply turning off during a print. So I swapped the supply. Now I can't get it to home any more. When I send the home command, I receive: QuoteAttempt to move the head of a delta printer before homing the towers. I've upgraded to the latest 1.13 beta firmwby maso - Duet
Have you checked the wires going to your stepper motor? Maybe one of them has come apart somewhere.by maso - Delta Machines
What are your retraction settings? I've had trouble before where my retraction was too agressive, and the wad of melted plastic would pull up into the PTFE tube, jamming it. You might try turning retraction down, or even off, just to see if the problem continues.by maso - Delta Machines
EDIT: Nevermind, that setting is there on 1.2.6 too. Rolling back to 1.2.6... I know this thread is old, but I was just fighting with this myself, and I think I've figured out why 1.2.9 behaves this way. There's a new setting, under Advanced, called Overlap. It creates an overlap between infill and perimeters for better bonding, and it's set to 15% by default. I turned that down to 0, re-sliceby maso - General
An easy resource: Prusa Calculator I'm assuming you have a leadscrew, so you'll want to scroll down to "leadscrew driven systems" You just enter in your motor step angle, your leadscrew pitch, number of microsteps on your controller, and any gear ratio you might have (most likely 1:1).by maso - General Mendel Topics
A couple things: 1.) This could be a steps/mm issue. If you move Z down from home by 100mm, are you measuring that it has moved 100mm? When configuring the steps/mm in firmware, make sure to take into account any microstep setting that your controller board has. This can be configured by jumpers on some, and is hard-coded on others. But if you're set to 1/16 microstepping, your steps/mm willby maso - Delta Machines
Yeah, I'm glad you solved it too! It's funny--would've been way more obvious if the shafts hadn't had flats. And it gives me one more thing to watch for when I see weirdness somewhere.by maso - Delta Machines
The fact that it does it the same way on multiple prints make me want to agree with you that it's likely mechanical. Motor currents and acceleration settings might make you miss steps, but I don't expect it would be so repeatable. So I'm trying to think of what might cause a non-linearity in your vertical motion. I don't think it's a gear or bearing that's out-of-true, because the oddity woulby maso - Delta Machines
QuoteKD0SKH some questions for everyone here: If you have a delta printer, what do you like about it? Which delta printer do you have? Is it pre-build or a kit? What firmware do you use? If you have a delta and a cartesian, which do you prefer and why? What things do you find really frustrating about delta printers? Thanks in advance! Fast (lighter effector/no bed movement means higher speedsby maso - Delta Machines
Check "View" and make sure "Hide Toolbar," "Hide Editor," and "Hide Console" aren't checked.by maso - OpenSCAD
With a little careful G-Code editing, I've managed to fudge something together and finish a print, but you'll most likely wind up with a bit of a stripe where the print failed. 1.) Find the Z-height where the print failed as best you can by stepping down slowly until you touch your last layer. 2.) Search the G-Code file for "Z*that height*" to find where the print began that layer. Keep that liby maso - General Mendel Topics
Nothing looks particularly out of place in the configuration.h to me. But I'm wondering if there was either a typo in your first description, or else if that's the problem. You said: QuotePaulM Every time I home the printer two of the towers home fine (X and Z) and then one (X) just skips on the stepper when it gets to the top. So did you mean to put a "Y" in there anywhere, or is it the X anby maso - Delta Machines
Wow! That's excellent, @tobben! While some people are working at getting printers small enough for their desktop, you're pioneering in the other direction! Maybe someday we'll have folks building Clercks in smaller frames on their desks. For those who can't dedicate a whole room to a 3D printerby maso - Delta Machines
Yeah, the spacing between the bars on Cherry Pi is narrower than the Kossel. I've encountered issues with that before, in that an ATX connector plug fits cleanly between the bars on the Kossel but not on the Pi. But having access to that OpenSCAD source could prove helpful. And it's good to see that the Duet does fit. I may cobble something of my own together sometime. Thanks to you both!by maso - Delta Machines
Congratulations @David_J! I still fully love my Pi, and have used it to print another Pi for a friend. It's hard to believe that it's over a year old! A question: I've picked up a Duet board but have yet to integrate it. Sounds like you're running one, so I was wondering if you've done anything to mount it? I remember seeing that dc42 couldn't fit it under his kossel mini but I'm thinking thby maso - Delta Machines
I'm far from a delta expert, so folks with opinions, feel free to correct me. But I've built one printer and helped a friend configure another, and really the only thing I would be worried about is not going less than 20 degrees on the outside edge of your build area. Everything else can be accounted for in firmware. You don't need 60 degrees in home center position: that's more of an incidentby maso - Delta Machines
Quotegowen It's an X-Box One power supply that Andy supplied with my kit. The label quotes 12VDC @ 17.9A which by my maths is 215 W. I just "upgraded" to an X-box 360 203W supply last weekend. Had exactly the same problem and wound up back at the ATX PSU I had been using. I don't think their power ratings are all that accurate. EDIT: I take that back, now that I think about it my problem waby maso - Delta Machines
How about not drilling them? I originally built a Cherry Pi III with 10mm magnets, then switched to the string-and-spring approach. I got 10mm bearings and just kept the cupped-out rods from the original design. You could super-glue the bearings into the plastic sockets, but I never bothered. When you spring it all together the tension holds the balls and rods in place. And it just makes morby maso - Delta Machines
I have a heated borosilicate glass bed, and I use hairspray for everything. I've used it with success for PLA, ABS, and HIPS. For ABS I have Slic3r make a brim of about 4mm to really give it some surface area to prevent it from warping off the bed. Cheap unscented Aqua Net works fantastic! And it leaves a very glossy finish on the part too. I've found that if you print a second piece after thby maso - Delta Machines
Looks excellent! And it's great to see thorough documentation. So many designs out there (mine included, I'm afraid) are lacking in the "how to put it together" department. This is easy to see and understand. So no worries about backlash with the belt, and I'm assuming you've improved the clearance issues you were having with the Greg's. I'll keep your design in mind in case I find myself witby maso - General Mendel Topics
QuoteZzyzxx71 I took Andy's updated 8mm all metal hot end effector and Maso's 10mm ball bearing effector and merged them Looks good, man! I had designed mine before seeing the all-metal effector, and this looks like a great dovetail between the two. It looks like you still have the two holes for hinge springs on there, which you won't need anymore. But doesn't Andy's spring string mount now uby maso - Delta Machines
QuoteZzyzxx71 Is there a version of Andy's effector for metal hot ends for struts with 10mm ball bearings? I designed one that has left me quite happy. I just used the arms from my old magnetic printer and put some 10mm bearings in it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518398 It's closer to the rostock-style of hotend mount, but it still has the auto-probing mechanism that Andy developed. Yoby maso - Delta Machines
I don't know what you have your fans doing or how vital they are, but I would say it's worth trying to use a faster speed blowing directly onto your hot end heat sink and see what you get. If an increase from 231 to 240 helped it could be worthwhile trying to go higher. As for your extruder melting, here are the setups for my two printers: Both of them are held by ABS, and both have fans. Iby maso - General Mendel Topics
EDIT: I just now noticed the youtube video you posted! Sorry! Still, try turning the temperature up. The first thing I recommend trying is increasing the temperature on your nozzle. Even if you've always had success with 230 degrees, maybe this spool of plastic likes it hotter. I've found ABS that worked best when I set my nozzle as high as 275. Now, if that doesn't help, I've got a coupleby maso - General Mendel Topics