See above Quote Experiment #4 Bed Temp 95°C 1 tea spoon of white sugar in 1/2 cup of Water. Applied with small brush. the liquid still forming islands, it is hard to applied, the water take time to evaporate. I kept scrubbing until the water evaporate, that left a nice evently coated surface. Result: Success!!!, ABS stick berry well!!! Removing the part is a charm, for the few parts that i printby Carignan - Reprappers
I have no problem with tall objects with heat bed at 110°C. I wait for the heat bed to be at around 90°C before applying the coating. Then I apply the sugar coating with a brush and I scrub gently until the coating feels dry and not sticky. That leave the surface a little white. It take about 30 secondes to apply That procedure is giving me the same succes than with the abs juice. It is totaby Carignan - Reprappers
I had astonishing success with ABS juice, in fact ABS juice is sticky.... so sticky that sometime the printed part come with chipped glass part of the glass surface!!!! I don't know if it's because a chemical reaction between abs juice and the kind of glass that i'm using, but it became a real problem since I had to change the glass support too often. Then i discover this thread : that talk aby Carignan - Reprappers
RepMachina.com Hi just a little word to tell you that a new RepRap online shop is opened to deserve north america. Aimed to provide quality products to the reprap community. Please pass by visiting us at RepMachina.comby Carignan - Canada, Ottawa-Gatineau RUG
RepMachina.com Hi just a little word to tell you that a new RepRap online shop is opened to deserve north america. Aimed to provide quality products to the reprap community. Please pass by visiting us at RepMachina.com RepMachina.com Salut, juste un petit mot pour vous dire qu'une nouvelle boutique en ligne RepRap est ouverte à Laval, dans la grande région de Montréal pour desservir le Québeby Carignan - Canada, Montreal RUG
Un autre frounisseur situé au Québec RepMachina.ca Web: www.repmachina.caby Carignan - Canada, Montreal RUG
Yes, it's clear now that i know. But for someone new to slic3r, this will get confusing real fast. one of the Ergonomic UI rule state that it is wrong to use a same concept(Use case) for 2 differents behavior. in this occurrence the concept is "Save config" i understand it this way -Now we have two ways to save the config... 1 - one way is the config,ini (old fashion) 2 - the second wayby Carignan - Slic3r
Here is the difference with 0.8.4 vs 0.9.0 0.9.0 M109 P1 S108 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached 0.8.4 M190 S108 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached it seems that Teacup does not like the P1 !!!! ; generated by Slic3r 0.8.4 on 2012-08-09 at 22:43:54 ; layer_height = 0.20 ; perimeters = 3 ; solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = .40 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.30 ; filament_diameter = 2by Carignan - Slic3r
i do agree, it seems a very complicated way to do something very simple.by Carignan - Slic3r
I tried to print with 0.90 with no luck, it is waiting for agessss , my last test was to wait until the print begin.... well i'm still waiting ( 45 minutes now ) here is my test procedure 1) start pronterface, set temp of extruder(240) and bed(108), and wait until the temp is reached 2) verify that slic3r is set to 240 extrusion and bed set at 108. Export config.ini 3) Load a stl 4) verifiby Carignan - Slic3r
No mater what i do , the config.ini is never saved bur if i do "File / Export config.ini" the config.ini is written correcly the file. but..... i fell like i do not understand at all how the new config system works.. do i have to always explictely di "File-Export Config.ini"? What is the purpose of the "save" button asid the config drop down box?by Carignan - Slic3r
ttsalo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Set your extruder motor current low enough that > the motor starts skipping steps before it chews > the filament. Even with everything working > normally, every now and then the extruder nozzle > will end up trying to extrude somewhere where > there is already plastic and the backpressure > causes the bolby Carignan - Slic3r
fma Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I tried the ABS juice, yesterday: epic fail > > How do you put the juice on the glass? How much is > needed? I apply the juice with a paint brush then let it dry for a minute or two, and it look like thisby Carignan - Slic3r
Hi folks, I told you that I planed to test the sugar water Technic.... well I did, .... and it works pretty well, not as well as the ABS juice because I had to lower the speed of the First layer quiet a bit ( 30% of the normal speed ). 4 sugar cubes per 100 ml applied at 100°C, let it dry, applied 2 to 3 coats. But I still prefer ABS juice, ,ore sticky = more first layer speedby Carignan - Slic3r
For now, since i'm printing with ABS, I'm using ABS juice applied on glass at 90°C. Removal is easy, it peel right of the glass passed 60C and lower.by Carignan - Slic3r
I will try Sugar Water @ 8g per 100ml applied with a brush @ 100C on the glass, someone on the forum seems to have great result with that bond, i'll let you know if that work So in short, my problem was not a Slic3r problem but: 1) a first layer that do not stick on the my glass 2) to stick,at the glass I needed to set the nozzle very near the bed ( soo near in fact, that it clog the nozzlby Carignan - Slic3r
Abs Juice (10ml acetone+10mm ABS filament) gives astonishing results. I'm printing the fist layer way faster, the first layer is is at good distance from the bed, so no more pressure build up in the barrel that prevent the extrusion. so ... no more filament grinding... So far so goodby Carignan - Slic3r
Yes I used to print very neer of the glass because otherwise, the abs does not stick to the glass i use a heat bed at 100C but as soon i use the Paper height trick, i'm too high. so actualy i'm trying the "ABS juice method" to print the first layer farther from the bed. as soon as i have news , i'll post my observation.by Carignan - Slic3r
Not specifc to slic3r since sfact is doing the same thing. it's hard to explain, i'll do my best. in short, "The first layer is grinding awfully my filament!!!!!". Why I don't know!!!! but all other layers, are just fine ??? this is driving me crazy. and since the filament is ginded, all the other layers do not print at all... So... here is my painful workaround to come over that problemby Carignan - Slic3r
I just descover netfabb to repair errors in STL.... That fixed the issue but why other slicers are able to come over this error but slic3r?by Carignan - Slic3r
on the Greg's extruder STL, Slic3r wrongly slice the horizontal hole found on the extruder but sfact does it just fine with the same stl. STL is attached and zippedby Carignan - Slic3r
J'offre mes services d'impression avec une très bonne précision. Mes pièces sont en ABS. Je peux imprimer vos pièces peut importe le modèle que vous aurez choisis. Je suis de Laval. pour me contacter carignankg (*a t*) gmail (*d o t*) comby Carignan - Canada, Montreal RUG
Strange, i don't see this option in slic3r 0.8.4!!!! Did the name or the concept changed recently?by Carignan - Slic3r
is wall tickness == "Printer settings Tab"."Printer Settings Section"."Perimeters value" in slic3r configuration tool? settings this one to zero was a bit stange because it print no wall at allby Carignan - Slic3r
Is there any reason why i got unusable pulley with slic3r? There is an hollow section between the shaft hole and the tooth wall, so my pulleys are weak. I'm using Gen7 1.4, teacup and poronterface with the latest slic3r 0.8.4. I got the same result with 0.8.3 and 0.7.1.29 The modelby Carignan - Slic3r
at this step it is said that for ATmega socket, "none of them should have more than 0.5 volts, except those marked to have 5 V." i get 5v reading also on pins 40,39 (temp1 and temp2) and Pin 9 (reset) if i press reset the voltage drop for the pin 9, is this normal? Pin 40 and 39 got 5v reading, is this normal also? Checks: No smoke? Great. The yellow LED in the lower right corner is lighteby Carignan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Y a t'il quel qu'un qui pourait m'aider Merci PS: la liste des pièces à Imprimer est ici: http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel90_Build_Manual pour me contacté carignankg 'at' gmail 'dot' comby Carignan - Canada, Montreal RUG