Do you want to finish one cylinder and then proceed to the next cylinder (on the same layer) or do you want to print each cylinder in its own colour?by Xabbax - Reprappers
Quoteohioplastics J-Head Lite No sugar added! The main difference in this design is the use of off the shelf products and technology to build a more economical hot end. For example, the heat sink is actually just a simple plumbing cap with a hole through it and mounted with a brass nut. The holder uses 1/2" reprocessed PTFE instead of the 5/8" in regular j-heads. The difference in price betweenby Xabbax - For Sale
QuoteA2 What do you mean by the forces are not friendly to the glass tubes? Zirconia is the ultimate material for this application. Porcelain would be an excellent replacement for expensive zirconia. No matter how hard I try - there's always one of them breaking apart in the heater block. I do not know what kind of glass it is. Got it from a scrap advertising board's fluorescent tubing. An oby Xabbax - General
I tried 3 feeders to the one heater block but the forces in the system are not friendly to the glass tubes(3.5 OD 2.5mm ID) - will Zirconia be any better? I am going ahead with stainless tubes(2 mm ID) in the place of the glass but will try again with the glass tube inside a stainless tube in the heater block and at the top with a break in the stainless somewhere in the middle.by Xabbax - General
I had some longer prints with the hotend - 2.5 hours and manually changed the colours halfway throug the print with the LCD smart controller. Pressed the T1 hotend and it stopped the T0 and proceeded with the T1 hotend without stopping the movement of the hotend and without any problems. Very easy to change the colours wherever you want to - no need to change the g-code to swap the colours. I diby Xabbax - General
Quotehiliagusta Steel tube length:200 mm (seamless stainless steel pipe) OD:12.7 mm ID: 10mm Copper tube length: 80 mm - ordinary plumbers pipe OD: 15 mm ID: 13 mm mm of overlapping between steel and copper tube: 10 mm Oger length: 300 mm - cut to size that will fit your setup Oger diby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Your filament may be deformed with the hobbed bolt to such extend that it wil buckle inside the bowden tube that will cause to much friction or it may cause the filament to deform to a more flat profile that is more than 2 mm causing it to stick to the sides of the tube. If this is the case try this hobbed bolt( )by Xabbax - Delta Machines
Quoteaduy i couldnt help but notice that your extruders are actually wrapping the filament around the drive gear Have only used ABS with the feeders and it's working fine with the better grip. QuoteEvil Monkey Do you have some sort of radiator to remove heat from the circulating water? What kind of pump do you use? No pumping - water in 100 ml plastic torus tank open to atmosphere with naturby Xabbax - General
Used a .5 mm nozzle and did not experience any problems I sliced the tube with slic3r and then manually added the colour changes in wordpadby Xabbax - General
Stainless tubes converge halfway down in the heater block. Started off with a .75 mm nozzle (prints attached) Colour change on a layer change without any retraction Will change to .5 and then .35 nozzle size and give feedback. It may well be that the back pressure on the lower nozzle sizes will lead to blockages - will see.by Xabbax - General
Quoteianmcmill how did you join the bit with the motor ? can you make some pictures please ? Cut the end of a cheap 9 mm socket for this part (image b.jpg)by Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
//from my library module torus2(r1, r2) { rotate_extrude() translate() circle(r2); } module oval_torus(inner_radius, thickness=[0, 0]) { rotate_extrude() translate(/2,0,0]) ellipse(width=thickness[0], height=thickness[1]); } torus2(80,20);by Xabbax - OpenSCAD
Annirak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The reason for using antifreeze is that it is a > corrosion inhibitor. The hot end described in this > thread uses mixed metals. And that is without any > mention of the radiator. While it is possible to > get brass radiators, most are aluminium, which > will make things even worse. > > The long andby Xabbax - General
knowbusiness Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Pure ethylene glycol/antifreeze does not conduct > electricity very well, it does conduct heat too > well. You can have a problem with too much > cooling, actually if you are following the Europa > design(eBay), that is not a problem. The new > Mercury can cool way too much, it is the only > issueby Xabbax - General
This from another forum. Quote: "stuttering it is probably caused by exceeding the max step clock that Marlin can drive, e.g. more than 24000 steps per second. In this case, try reducing DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE in Configuration.h from 500 to 200 or so."by Xabbax - Delta Machines
bobc Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unfortunately whatever wording is chosen, there > will be grey area between spam and legitimate > discussion. > > I would vote for an "Announcements and New > Products" sub-forum, where people can post and > discuss announcements whether they have a > financial interest or not, without cluttering up >by Xabbax - General
One possibility - check the wiring of the motor -colourcoding - I have not worked with Marlin - cannot be of help there. Tuning the motors Some other calibration guides:by Xabbax - Delta Machines
AndyCart Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the quick replies guys. I'm using the > A4988 Pololu compatible driver from > Reprapdiscount. Install A4988 according to this image > I'm not sure what 'rotated 180 > degrees' means ??? The DRV8825 must be rotated 180 degrees and then installed. > > Andyby Xabbax - Delta Machines
If you are using the new DRV8825 - it must be rotated 180 degrees from the standard driver.by Xabbax - Delta Machines
Which drivers are you using on your Rumba?by Xabbax - Delta Machines
I had mixed results with the open flame that I used to heat the aluminium foil and changed that to a PTC heater element of 230 degrees C. Also cut the aluminium in a triangular shape to concentrate more heat at the center and less heat at the ends. Much better results with the ABS filament.by Xabbax - General
MattMoses Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Cool, thanks for the additional info, theodleif. > The link is here for those interested: > Wildseyed Simple Hot End. Thank you for the interesting links. Such a wealth of info on this forum. I replaced the bottom brass bolt with a welding tip and still use the brass dome nut for the nozzle. For me it is easierby Xabbax - General
New delta with some of the prints. The vase on the platform - 300 mm high - 150%by Xabbax - Look what I made!
Update on the upgrades to the hotend I used a nozzle from the welding industry to replace the bottom brass with copperby Xabbax - General
Repetier are you going to list yourself under RepRap bounties -by Xabbax - Repetier
bobc Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I set up a page on the wiki at > with some > info about RepRap bounties. Any > questions/suggestions please feel free to comment. Thank you bobc for the wiki.by Xabbax - General
Very good idea - keep working on it and give us feedback.by Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
bkapps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is there > another method for attaching thermistors to a high > temperature hot end? Thanks . silicone impregnated braided fiberglass tubing works much easier than kapton tapeby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
IanJohnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How does the filament turn out? Is it still > flexible, not brittle? No, not brittle at all. The same as the natural filament. > If you get the pigment > sheet thin enough, I wonder if it could go through > a paper shredder. Keep in mind that you want the pieces the same size as your pellets to get aby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group