I didn't file any part of my extruder motor shaft, that's optional but a great thing to solve a problem that kept coming back. I only tighten it snuggle fit, never ever over tighten it. The perimeter/skirt lines are normal like that, try increasing perimeter lines up to 3 lines. I always use 3 perimeter lines so that the extruder will eventually extrude plastic properly. The left side of the picby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
The printer looks nice. You can ask a lot of things here, that's what this forum all about. You could try searching calibration steps or calibrating your printer under reprap wiki. I personally never really read and follow that guide. But I somewhat learned it the hard way. Mechanical calibration comes first, especially punching in correct steps/mm then you can move on. I also saw you put y axiby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCycleguy Hello I see you have a number of posts so I presume you are well beyond this issue but how did you fix the ""Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !" concern? I have the same controller board now but my printer kit is not yet assembled so I've not yet used it. I did read that there is a setting in Marlin where I'll need to have a minimum temperature reached or the extruder wilby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Just hook your board to your pc and connect using pronterface. No need to power the board from the mains. Also don't forget to check if there's any eeprom preconfigured. You can't however pull and modify flashed firmware. You have to make your own changes later. Of course, don't forget to check the prusa calculator for steps/mm, then you can work your way out slowly. By studder/making a grindinby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteXYZM The solution was changing the mains to 110V...very simple fix I overlooked. One reason I ignored this was because the power supply had a sticker on the side that says "110-120 50Hz 200-240 60 Hz" I knew for sure the US is at 60Hz, so I left it the way it was on 220. Good thing the error wasn't the other way because it would have Good to know that you solved it then reports bacby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you put it those endstops at max position? have you ever tried to move it to min position?by sarf2k4 - Printing
I think you have to edit/delete your very first post to do that. All you need is patience, forums aren't really like live chat room. Back to the topic, have you tried turning up the potentiometer? Someone told me about voltage is actually like a tank capacity, when there's a lot of 12v or other lower equipment using it, it might go down, and the equation I think goes like this V=I/R and I don'tby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Such a "spam" like thread title Try to turn up the potentiometer on your step stick slowly. That sounds is what I think lack of current to drive the motorby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote24ariel3 Hi can you screenshot me all of your cura settings? That's everything that I've given you, other than that is the print size, anything never mentioned are default valuesby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't really understand much from the flow rate calibration explanation there, because he somewhat uses skeinforge and some jargons I don't really prefer to use lots of software though I also would think that I don't wanna print in pla anymore or I think I'm going to have pla as something like printing a parts and test whether if it fits or not. I printed a direwolf with tail support, it brby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote24ariel3 Hi I've changed the values and now it seems to travel all the distance but new problem now see photo looks like isn't scaling well BTW it is happening also when I remove caps and set the drivers to 1/16 Use a prusa calculator to calculate the steps per mm, if you changed to drv8825, double the value of the steps per mm, if you are using a4899, you just use it. Try not to keep chby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote1978bamf So i got my new gt2560 board installed and was wondering what should b the first step? Do i hook everything up then download firmware or the other way around? And what is the best firmware to use? I have heard so many things on firmware that my head hurts plus i really dont want to fry another board. Any help or suggestions would b awesome Check the board if there is any existing fby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote24ariel3 Hi, I'm using the Geeetech prusa i3 Can some share some good slicer settings for PLA 1.75mm filament? Thanks you! Using cura: nozzle size 0.4mm layer 0.2mm wall 1.2mm top/bottom 0.8mm infill 10-15% hot end 195-205'c bed 70'c (smeared with glue stick, uhu/generic) flow 100% print speed 60 retract length 1.5 retract speed 150 I don't really follow slicer settings from geeetech,by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote1978bamf Sarf2K4, First thanks for the great info. Next when i download the marlin firmware how do i flash the board? And my extruders were working only when I manually used them on the repeaterHost program but if i tried to print they did nothing. And yeah i tried to print strait away with out uploading firmware as i was not aware i had to. I have arduino downloaded now and haven't done anyby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa HI Sarf2K4 Good you finaly solve that. I just Wonder who can sell you a Rod with Inch thread But somehow it is an M8 thread rod, I wonder why It didn't fit on the existing... erm... rounded brass nut? I think I better find another that thing 'brass nut' whatever it is called. But I opened the other end of the threaded rod, on top of it with the parts that I created last time. Eveby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Somehow, after I tried to switch the m8 thread rod I bought which has different pitch, and I put the original threaded rod again. When I was detaching the threaded rod I had slight problem at the bottom side where it got hard to spin except to use a pliers. When I put it again I turn it upside down, it can be twisted much easier without problem then I printed the temp calibration object, surpriseby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi Look up I have a post with " Z Anti wobble support". Those parts remove the connection from thread rods and the rest of the machine. Have a picture. Sorry but I never try PLA, but as all plastic I would try first a parts going up and changing the temperature down every 5 layers to find my material temp. You have some tips on Internet about temperature control parts. cube 1 wall 2by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteslanwar I tried to install the graphic controller but won't work, the LCD display lights up but nothing on it. I have the folger prusa i3 Try adjusting the potentiometer, while you're at it, look at different angle to see the lit up bits. You probably have to solder another resistor at the back of itby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi SAF2k4 I will not touch the tread rod, it will not solve your wobble after all you have done, but I will have a look at the smooth rod and the bearings. In GEEETECH, the bearing are very cheap and often "missing some balls inside". and the smooth rods, who are not stretch rod but grinded. -You better measure your rod diameter and they must be at 7.98mm minimum. In my first post tby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVashikovich QuoteVDX ... does it loose steps? Bad vibration is mostly connected to stalling (loosing steps) or coarse microstepping/halfstepping. Set finer microstepping for smaller steps, so it won't vibrate so much ... and eventually rise the motor current, if it's stalling ... How to know whether it lose steps or not? I've experimented in commanding the motor to move at constant speedby sarf2k4 - Printing
Here is the link to the z axis top bracket, leaving the threaded rod open psu cover for extra safetyby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Now I am getting first layer too thin, probably put too much generic gluestick (artliner, blue colour) and I somehow in a rush put the glue on the bet when it is 110'c. I wonder if I really damaged bed/glass because right after print ended I tried to take the item off (most likely due to anxious newbie in successful prints). I'm going to wash the glass then put a bit of glue stick when it is dryby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I bought replacement for it last time because I overtightened the one that came with the kit in the end can't be opened anymore, I put it the open end at top then I saw the teflon tube pushed upwards towards the gear and rendered the original one useless. The replacement came however, has open end at the top while close end at the bottom which makes me thinking, which way is the correct one anywaby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCraigMoberg The sugar water worked! I used 10g sugar in 100ml water, dabbed it heavily with a tissue on the hot bed (100) and let it dry. I'm now the proud father of a 20mm hollow cube. I'm not sure it worked VERY well though. At the end the cube was skewed a little relative to the perimeter, so there may have been some slippage, and the cube may have suffered some from that too. After theby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi sarf2K4 Your top Z threaded rod is good like that. be sure the rod never touch the white plastic part when it spin. my E3D is not center because my direct drive is on the left, opposite as yours. also to avoid the extruder getting out of the bed too far when homing. Ripple is due to jerk (you can even down it) or speed too high or belt not tight enough. for direct extrusion theby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi sarf2k4 If you go direct drive, the 1 mm gap is not a problem because the distance between the feeder and the nozzle is short. The filament is strong enough to avoid spring effect. There is a part can be printed to avoid wobble without cutting short the threaded rod, I will post them soon when I will redraw it. And can be used later for auto bed leveling! The parts for the all meby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi Sarf2K4, a 0.1mm caliper is also OK. you have a 0.5mm nozzle. so for this you must get walls at arround 0.5x1.2=0.6mm. For you Wobble problem, a thread rod is never straigth. even if looks ok with eyes. You say you have 1 to 2mm waves, but in fact you have wave half of this, because the position will be moving left to right everytime you increase the high of the layer. i explainby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi I had some direct request for the modification's on my GEEETECH, i prefer post them here directly for everyone with pictures. For the Bowden: i have a XL motor attached at the back of the printer on the power supply, still have 2 screws left for this. No need to drill your acrilyc. The filament enter at the bottom of the motor, guided in the PET TUB untill the E3D on the carriaby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I am using mk8 extruder type, I wonder if I'm able to reach up to 270c? Since you guys all using e3d type hotend, is there anyone uses other than e3d type to reach up to 270c? Just got my cracks last night though and I am running on sangui board so there were no way to control the fan except it is always on, but i do have a fan duct, I took it out last night when printing the back case of mby sarf2k4 - Printing
QuoteXYZM I did make sure of that. The GT2560 has two extruder connections, I tried both and the same result. I will try measuring voltage and resistance at the hotend. I don't think it is the hotend issue, it has to do with your thermistor, don't want to be sound rude but, could you start a new thread instead of discussing about your thermistor problem here? Either within specific electronicby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants