here, from geeetech themselves, just change your extruder numbers and board and you're good to go, I also used this config, only for steps, acceleration, homing and basically, about steps settings and my 20mm cube now are accurate (before it was about 2% larger)by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemersadk I bought this one and I am vary pleased with it. What is the kit's frame thickness? 6mm? @TS: Personally, I would avoid single frame kits such as i3 rework like hephaestos because you will end up adding extra support on the frame itself by yourself (correct me on this one). Going for acryllic, 6mm is a good one but bear in mind some designs, especially from china like sunhockey arby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I wouldn't worry too much on the thin wall if it's not printed, the nut will still get locked into place though =)by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't get what you mean by crashes, even with the pics and video doesn't seem to have any issues Did you mean the filament not going out at the nozzle?by sarf2k4 - Printing
The bed probably didn't have smooth travel or the current are too lowby sarf2k4 - Printing
QuoteGRAYWOLF After a week of wanting to smash my printer I have it up and running again but for one issue. Running Triffid hunters calibration test I am coming a cropper with the esteps calibration. The i'm running it with the hot end but the extruder is clicking away and only extruding 95 mm instead of 100 mm (or near enough), Is this down to the pully not having enough pressure on it or backby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
You have to reduce your hot end temp when reaching smaller pieces unless there are more than 1, then that might be okayby sarf2k4 - Printing
Hi, sometimes I have problems printing my item, I bought filaments from china and for this one, the first spool I bought (other than came with the kit), sometimes giving me this problem, more like the plastic are not deposited enough to have it bonded with the previous and other plastics. These problem can be a disaster because it sometimes occur on 1 layer but not others, some objects I printeby sarf2k4 - Printing
QuoteLaopa Hi Looking at your printer, are you sure the 2 extruders are mounted correctly? I will have flip them 180 deg to have the fan cool the heat blocker and not the back of the motors. Check that again first. I have checked and yes, but if you read comments, some guys say it is useless also. When you heat the filament, the nozzle became hot, but if you not cool the guide over the heat bby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I always go with extra .5mm if I were to fit on any screws/bolts. Also don't forgot that flow rate plays huge impact on precision printing. I printed a case with button that cannot fit probably due to 100% flow rateby sarf2k4 - Printing
Quotedc42 Unless your cables are too thin, they should not make an appreciable difference to the resistance. The figures I gave assume that the heater power is within a range of about 30W to 50W. Thank you, I measured between 2 poles and gives me about 4ohms, what happens if I put wrong heater cartridge to the wrong board systems, will it fry my board or it will not fire up?by sarf2k4 - General
Well, I only assume that the TS doesn't have an idea to use relay or somethingby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedc42 Use a multimeter to measure its resistance. It will be between 2.5 and 5 ohms if it is 12V, and between 10 and 20 ohms if it is 24V. Will the resistance increase with longer cable and this method applies to all heater cartridge?by sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I ordered a hotend but I didn't specify the type as in 12v or 24v. I need help how can I identify my hotend voltage type?by sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I need identification and source to the stl file for this extruder , I want to print this and see if will fit on mine for future upgrades Thank you in advanceby sarf2k4 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteKahosTch I only change the cable, and that dosnt work. I will try with Pronterface and report. Thank you! I forgot to request the i3c extruder mount from you, think you can share it here? I wanna have it just in case I might wanna mod it or something and for collectionby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I wanted to gather you guys who know in using openscad to make a customizable prusa i3 variant parts just by using presets for screw holes, other things are welcomed too. I just finished building this took me a lot of time debugging the errors and I got it. This carriage were combined from vanilla and geeetech because geeetech x carriage has an extended arm to push the endstop switch so I cby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJackKahler First off, I have no idea what any of the settings you asked for are. I don't even know what a marlin has to do with 3-d printing. Secondly, issue resolved!!!! I was just an idiot and connected the motors to the wrong input. I am so used to Y being up that I put it there instead of Z. sarf2k4 thank you very much for helping. I was worried I had nowhere to go. You're welcome, Iby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Not much can be found except meddling yourself with the marlin comments to suit your board and needs. Other thing that you don't understand then maybe you could ask or try search youtube video toooby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKahosTch Hello! Good Night gentlemens, im from Mexico, and y have puchased this printer, exactly i have the C version (Dual Extruder), but i have some problems... and i want to know if you can helpme. THIS IS THE PROBLEM. I have a model (this: ) and my Filament and Printf Configs. I have mi G-Code, and everything looks fine. I start to print, but some minutes after, the printer start toby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you serious running a 3d printer with heated bed at 20a psu? Also are you sure to wire up the heated bed directly to the psu? 2 things about my questions above 1. Heated bed can pull up to around 15a during heat up depending on the wire length and its size 2. Heated bed will heat up and continue to burn itself the moment you turn on that psu and thus will melt/burn your heated bed. (an analby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I did, I guess it is just to 'stabilize' the temp efficiently, I guess it does help though, doesn't have a lot of temp swings a lotby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJackKahler I am very new to the 3-d printing game and just finished building my first Prusa i3. It was no easy feat as the instructions rarely lined up. My problem is that when I go to print it runs through all of the axis's but when it gets to x-axis the motor doesn't stop. It just continues to pull until I shut it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Could you please give us moreby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKimBrown Hi, I'm new to running Ramps having come from an Ormerod 1. Does the SD card have to have a config.g file to adjust the initial machine settings similar to the Duet on the Ormerod? I haven't finished the build yet, but hoping to power it up late tomorrow. Any suggestions would help please. Apparently it's running the latest software. Thanks, Kim.. I'm pretty sure the config.g is aby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSalvatore94 Hello everyone, I want to buy my first 3D printer kit ( because I enjoy it and I like to assemble ) but are still undecided between various kits . I know there are a lot of posts like this but still I could not clear my head . As usual I provide the basic information for advice : - Budget : 300/450 € - Usage: educational , to print some model created for the university , or anyby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I also forgot to mention that geeetech provides 8mm thick acrylic compared to those conventional other acrylic frame seller around 5-6mm onlyby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hmm, the cube turned out to be so messy, I also would think that your hot end are not 90' angle and thus hit the cube previous layer that hasn't fully hardened yet. Don't tighten it too much on your extruder spring, probably the best way is that you check how much the hobbed bolt/ extruder gear has eaten the raw filament or how deep the teeth squishing the raw filament (sorry not very sure theby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRRuser I see that these Geetech i3 units are acrylic frame. Does anyone have experience on if they will warp or crack? Also, is the SD card ribbon cable routed near other things which may cause interference? Some printers put the SD card directly on the controller board so that there is no ribbon cord to collect noise. So far so good on my end despite printing at around whooping 60mm/s prodby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelucamasira Hello guys. I received my prusa i3 today. It is the one from reprapworld.com(megatronics). I checked the bill of materials, all parts are there except some printed parts. Some parts arent like the ones on the build manual and material list which make me think that it may be another version although it says v1.0 everywhere. I could contact them but decided to make a topic aboby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants