looks fine to me except the layers looks quite thickby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote1978bamf Thanks to all of the help and info everyone has provided. I have figured out that somewhere along the line i fired the control board. So i have a new one coming. Can someone please give step by step info on what to do once i get the new board wired up. Meaning what gets loaded first firmware, etc.... Once again i dont mean to sound stupid but i am learning all of this. I have cleaneby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteXYZM Hey so I have been having a problem where it says "Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !" Did anyone with the have this. I am using the Gt2560 board. Make sure you connected the thermistor cable into the correct port. You get that error because the thermistor isn't connected to your 'default' extruder thermistor inputby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejulslol So I calibrated the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT, but it still doesn't seem to lift at all during the print. Could you give us your calibration procedure? Whenever you used the eeprom command you need to save it before turning it off with m500 because the changes are only for temporary, followed by m501 to confirm the setting again edit: Connect using pronterface and send m501 to sby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLaopa Hi For the infill, it is part of machine calibration. Follow this link which is for me a very good one. And with this you can also adjust your X,Y and Z dimensions. For pets with mechanical strength, better increase the wall thickness, top and bottom to 4 layers. The infill can be 15 to 20%. Thank you for pointing out the flow rate calibration, I was fiddling with it before I useby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I am using v1.0.5rc2, because version above than 1.0.6 will have trouble adding custom board especially sangui board, I got u8glib pins error not declared or somethingby sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
QuoteLaopa Sarf2k4 The old extended part can fit on the X carriage. For the wobble, you must fix a guide rod at each extremities, it will be your guide. The threaded rods, cannot be touching the motor axes. Even inside the couplers. The top side of the threaded rod must be free and touch nothing. Cut them short. The plastic clip clamp, first loose the belt, then fix your clamps. If not your bby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Just use a normal ruler to measure rough estimation of your threaded rod from above and your belt pitch referenced here As for pulley teeth, use some kind of whiteboard marker or put some mark and start count all of the teeth till you reach the mark again. Alternatively you can go for the hard way like calibrating the extruder in getting the steps/mm but this is not a very good practice and noby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I have full graphic lcd and wanted to use with my sangui 1.3a but whenever I tried to upload the firmware the ide gave me u8glib error on the pins, something like not declared or something. A help here would be appreciated, the code below are he errors I got even on verifying it In file included from /dogm_lcd_implementation.h:40, from ultralcd.cpp:35: /ultralcd_by sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
I got a problem about a pin error during upload process on the u8glib or something, someone can help me in this?by sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
Quotejulslol #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,405.4591,95} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {500,500,20,5000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. #define DEFAULby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you for the parts especially for the e3d mount. how about the x-carriage especially the 'extended' part, does it have the same length as the stock parts? It would be a slight mess for me to fiddle with the firmware again As for the wing nuts, I found out that these wing nuts tend to get loose whenever the printer shakes rigorously during the print and so I changed every wing nut to lockby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Could you provide your setting? The "steps per mm" part Also could you specify the size of your threaded rod?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekaiser1 hi this is the configuration.h file, maybe the problem is here? Is this the config.h you uploaded to your board? Few tips here although I also new but I already made some mistake before and would like to share for precaution -Send m114 to check endstops state and test pressing the endstop with your hand to see if there are any changes -C or common or 1 printed on the mechanical (nby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I have geeetech prusa i3b using sanguino board and the motor connector somehow 'fixed', so I just fiddle with the direction in the firmware. Flipping the motor connector also is another way to do it =) And yeah, do either firmware invert or invert the connector, don't do bothby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
It is recommended to set the endstops as min, then you fiddle with these settings below and make sure that the position of these axis is in the middle so that when you try homing with pronterface and it goes the wrong way you just switch off the power immediately to avoid these axis crashing // Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I would like to point that have you ever checked the steps per mm setting? If you are using m8 threaded the z-axis setting should be 2560 steps per mm, I had trouble with this before while I was checking the new board I got. About the motor making noise I simply would say most likely because of not enough current to drive the forceby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
use m501 command to check the stored value in eeprom, even if you change in firmware and reflash, the board always use settings stored in eepromby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewindcalmer Just snapped this one. I had a ton of this stuff laying around from Nerf projects. I think I'm not gonna use this method, a longer nut and some kind of thingamajig to fit the motor shaft to the long nut isn't available and had to wait, I would go for printed coupler, I might going to print this oneby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewindcalmer DO you want a 3d printed coupler? Or just an idea to make it work? I have aquarium tubing connecting my steppers and threaded rod. It has been working for 3-4 months now. I did put a white line in craft paint on the tubing and rod to be able to see if it had slipped at all. Both would be good, I spent too much time last night trying to make it work but failed, I tried the adhesivby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I wanted to seek help in my z-axis coupler, the threaded rod I measured is around 7.5-7.7mm while the coupler is 7.9-8.0mm and it is loose, I tried to use ptfe tape but it turned out to be not doing well and it is a ridiculous option. The hole for stepper motor size were okay Any of you guys can give me solution to this problem? Printed coupler parts also okay just recommend me a solution, Iby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethe_digital_dentist And now for something completely different- a work in progress- see: I haven't worked on it for a while- it works great driving filament forward, has problems when retracting (due to speed of retraction compared to forward feed, I think). No gears, but very high downward force because the threads are effectively a gear. I read about this design probably 1-3 months ago,by sarf2k4 - General
Quotethejollygrimreaper Quotesarf2k4 Quotethejollygrimreaper Quotesarf2k4 Hi, I am wondering about a springless extruder design found on most 'some proprietary' 3d printers such as zortrax and up or other brand that didn't use spring to grip the filament. Is there any working design for this idea in reprap? Do correct me if this has been posted before and I'm sorry for double post if there is aby sarf2k4 - General
Quotethejollygrimreaper Quotesarf2k4 Hi, I am wondering about a springless extruder design found on most 'some proprietary' 3d printers such as zortrax and up or other brand that didn't use spring to grip the filament. Is there any working design for this idea in reprap? Do correct me if this has been posted before and I'm sorry for double post if there is any yes there is a extruder availableby sarf2k4 - General
QuoteSrek I made a design where instead of a metallic spring the extruder was made of Nylon and used it's flexibility for tension. It works, but it has no real advantage over a spring based design. Why do you want a springless extruder, what do you expect it to do better? I wonder if it makes it better in terms of grip, few days ago when I tried to print something, during the process of the bordeby sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I am wondering about a springless extruder design found on most 'some proprietary' 3d printers such as zortrax and up or other brand that didn't use spring to grip the filament. Is there any working design for this idea in reprap? Do correct me if this has been posted before and I'm sorry for double post if there is anyby sarf2k4 - General
Quotedc42 Quotetadawson Those are exactly what I was recommending, and considering that there are two working in parallel, can already take 16 amps. The two ground connections on a RAMPS work in parallel, but the +12V connections do not. One feeds the bed heater circuit, the other feeds everything else. So if a 10A bed heater is used, the 8A terminal block is being overloaded. Thank you for theby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Hi, I am considering to build this tantilus as well but I am curious with the BOM, is it measured in metric or imperial? Regards Sarfby sarf2k4 - Tantillus
I bought this style of terminal blocks because there are metal will clamp the wire inside, I used a flat head screw to push it up again so i can take out the wire easily. Should I change the terminal block to a 16a type?by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
I pushed the pins upwared by using a small flat head screw driver when it has turned off. But it did clamp on the wire for good. As for the rated capacity, i should find another and replace it right?by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices