grael Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for approving my choice of generic chip > type for my own board design ! >< Hello! I am very interested on cheap ARM Cortex! And now we have Arduino based on ARM: grael, how is the status of this project? is there any reprap wiki page with more info? I would like to help if the boards suits my needs forby casainho - Controllers
JohnWasser Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Rick Pollack Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > John - why are you using a 13mm slab...that > seems > > awfully thick/heavy. > > I would have preferred using 1/4" aluminum plate > (6mm?) but I could not get a 100x100mm square out > of the scrap piecby casainho - General
My prints are having a XY displacement, and that are running my actual prints :-( The displacement is because there is small parts of extruded plastic as springs, and that springs later make force on my extruder noozle, making a displacement on it. I did attach the extruder PTFE with 4 screws, a bit like Makerbot extruder that uses 2 screws... but the problem is that excess of extruded filament,by casainho - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Rick Pollack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @casainho - join the MakerGear Google Group for > detailed discussions about heating times and > such... Rick, I am just interested on RepRap Mendel. If you want to make and sell an Heated Bed for Mendel, than this is the correct forum for discuss it and not any other. I do not want to discuss your solution bby casainho - General
Rick Pollack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > MakerGear has a basic aluminum HBP pack ($17.50) > available - alu plate, power resistors, connectors > and thermistor. I'm thinking about doing an > aluminum version of the ceramic kit...here are a > couple of the prototype laser cut 1/8" aluminum > plates. Ok, nice to know. Would be possible for youby casainho - General
Rick Pollack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The temperature for the ceramic platform can be > regulated. The temp for printing ABS on Kapton > film is 80C-90C but some people are using higher > temps. You can see some photos of raftless > ABS/kapton printing on the MakerGear homepage. Rick, are you the men behind MakerGear? If so, could you tellby casainho - General
JohnWasser Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I put 20Ω (about 900mm) of MakerBot nichrome on > the bottom of a 100x100x13mm slab of aluminum > using Kapton tape. Hooked up to 12v it only got > to 40°C. Looks like I'll have to shorten the > nichrome. P = U² / R <=> 12*12 / 20 = 7.2W. Try to use at least 50W, by using a different wire, with loby casainho - General
dissidence Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > thats pretty much what i was thinking about doing > right there, i guess i was far from the first > person to think of this idea Yes, however I am curious at which temperature that bed goes, how much time takes and what power it uses. I am happy to see at least 2 stores selling the Heated Bed! Is Heated Bed reaby casainho - General
A new Heated Bed kit is on selling, for Makerbot. It's using a ceramic platform and kapton tape. And 60 or 70ºC...by casainho - General
dissidence Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i was thinking about printing right onto the tile, > with kampton tape on it. No, I think is bad idea to try get it hot. Since it is insulator, you wouldn't get a constant temperature all over it... and even be able to quick get it hot. Aluminium is the material for that, at last the best people did tried until nowby casainho - General
dissidence Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > hey i had a thought today about trying to use a > ceramic floor tile for a heated printing bed, i > would have to do some checking to see what ones > would work better with a heater attached to it. > but i think it would be a good idea. to try any > how, or has any one else tried this idea.? Prusjar isby casainho - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Acrylic sheets are not that flat either in my > experience. And acrylic at 120ºC for print ABS, will get very warpy!! I can't understand how it is used on Makerbot Heated Bed solution. > Who would think it would be so hard to make > something hot and flat? Maybe we can do as extruder brass barrel and nozzle,by casainho - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes I was also thinking about using casting and > glass to get a flat surface. To get even heat you > need a pretty good conductor, or have it very > thick. I was thinking along the lines of resin > mixed with aluminium or copper powder to increase > the conductivity. Or you need a diffuse heating > elemby casainho - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I haven't notice Kapton changing over time. I have > printed a whole Mendel on the same piece, mainly > ABS. > > You could try blue masking tape instead for PLA. I > think is sticks a bit better to that. The only > downside is a matt finish on the base instead of > shiny. Ok, thanks :-) Just now Iby casainho - General
I am being trying to print a relative big piece, this one: (link to thing). It always do some warp, even with PLA and heated bed at > 60ºC. Today I had to abort because warp went very bad... and this time I just kept the room always closed, so none cold wind coming from open window. Does anyone knows if maybe kapton tape can work just for one or to times and after and need to change for a nby casainho - General
I got it, by redesign again the meshes and be carefull with non manifolds :-)by casainho - 3D Design tools
SebastienBailard Wrote: > As soon as the Heated Bed Working Group signs off > on their design, we can alert the guys in the For > Sale forum, and our recommended suppliers: > > , and so on. > > We = me, after you email me. Or we = you, after > you autonomously decide it is ready. > > The Heated Bed Working Group is in charge of this, > but I can broadcast tby casainho - General
1st: For sure that I think Heated Bed is independent of Mendel, that's why is a module - working alone, not like Makerbot solution that is wired to extruder board. Heated Bed is for sure an important evolution on RepRap, everyone needs/wants it as we can see on HopHead comments blog for that. Also Makerbot started to selling it. I would prefer to buy from Makerbot as I did for electronics boardby casainho - General
> -Extruder currently does not push plastic through > the nozzle, though it does come out slowly if I > manually push it. > -Extruder must reach ~280C in order to extrude ABS > at a reasonable rate and with reasonable force. > Extruder starts smoking at 285C, and the white > insulation begins to char. I think 280ºC is a very high value! you should be ok with 220ºC +-10ºC. Sby casainho - Mechanics
murd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bureaucracy is the stultifying reactionary > evolution of any social population. Its advocates > believe that their own activities are the real > purpose of any endeavour, that consensus can be > dictated, and that in a democracy, their > ideological despotism is justified, because they > serve the communiby casainho - General
Ryan Mulligan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi, this is Ryan from Pololu. > > The heat issues you mention with the A4983 are not > an issue with the board, but an issue with the way > people are driving it. Some people were stepping > the board with a very low duty cycle with too > little current limiting. This leads to current > spikesby casainho - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
sheep Wrote: This > information really needs to be in a format anyone > can read. Not everyone uses Linux. If I do > manage to open the file I will convert it to PDF, > so why can the file not be provided in that > format. > > While the name PDF is trademarked, the language > used to encode inside the file is open. This is > why apple wrote their own distiller andby casainho - General
sheep Wrote: > Why is there no PDF of the Mendel BOM!!??? I > tried opening this with google docs but all that > does is save the file name to a folder, when I try > and run export to pdf from google docs I just get > the same file back on my local drive. > > Why is there no PDF of the Mendel BOM???? Because this project is Open Source, which means we even share the sourcby casainho - General
anton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This weekend I went to a LEGO exhibition with my > daughter, and I gained a little nugget of > information about how they fuse some of their > parts together, which I thought I'd share, in case > somebody finds it useful. > > They use sound waves, more specifically at 20kHz, > they didn't mention a speby casainho - General
> "Poll" sounds good in principle, but may be bad in > practice, in as much as the various working groups > and solitary research-type RepRap user-developers > are very very busy working on their own > sub-projects because they think that sub-project > has merit. And they may not be interested in a > poll to tell them what to think. Example: The > Forth-based RepRap Workby casainho - General
> Not being an engineer I don't know the issues > involved in creating stepper drivers that could > handle widely varying motor sizes. On first > glance it doesn't seem that this would be > impossible and might have some advantages for > someone with multiple machines. Even if expensive to have all that stepper motors, it makes possible to have it working, because if we do asby casainho - General
Hello :-) I am really new to RepRap, but I think that RepRap have a few problems right now that compromises his existence. RepRap need to continue evolution to survive over the times. RepRap Mendel is stable, but there are a lot of other things to improve this 3D printer and even continue with the same philosophy. I see the support material as the first thing to do next, to put our energies onby casainho - General
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi all, > > ... i read at the makerbot-blog an article about > MeshMixer and found it very funny/useful > > Here is the link to Ryan Schmidt's homepage with > more infos and the download-links to both > programs. > > A similar program for easy 3D-designing of > 'organic' objects ist Smooth Teby casainho - 3D Design tools
Hello :-) I am working since a few days on improving the Mini2440 enclosure Thing:1795. I am using Blender and now I have all done but I have problems on non-manifolds Can someone help me, maybe guiding how should I do it in Blender? some technical advices on a way I should "clean" the non-manifolds? Or maybe even do that for me? (file is attached) Thanksby casainho - 3D Design tools
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The most efficient way to do it will be with a > switch mode current regulator but I read you have > to be careful with a laser diode as a slight > overshoot, even for a very small time will destory > them. So the feedback control loop would need to > be spot on. Ok, and so let's avoid that solution. I gueby casainho - Laser Cutter Working Group