dubious Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't have my mendel kit yet, so I don't know > about lengths and stuff. I just assume that the > 1.6 meters long stills films would be enough, and > there's no need for cine films specifically. > Also I know Australia is a stupidly huge place, > but apparently there's some old Aussie who > designed anby mlagana - Reprappers
ah ofcourse. awesome, thanks heaps. I'm going to get it printed at a fablab near my house, unfortunately i took my reprap apart as i was spending way too much time on it and am very overdue with other deadlines, but if someone else wants to give it a print please let me know how it goes!by mlagana - Reprappers
I finally got my head around OpenSCAD, and am loving it so far, but i need a bit of help. I'm making the film gear and it looks fine: but when i press F6 the teeth disappear and i get this: here it is: difference() { union() { cylinder(h = 35, r1 = 10, r2 = 10, center = true); translate([0,0,14]) cylinder(h = 7, r1 = 12, r2 = 12, center = true); //top bit translate([0,0,-10]) cyliby mlagana - Reprappers
i am also going to try 4mm glass from a scanner, on dibond heated with nichrome like adrians style. resistors are a bit chunky, but probably easier to control.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
myndale the 4mm glass you could find in an old scanner or photocopier if you can find one, might not be wide enough for a mendel though.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
shame it went from so hot to all of a sudden 22 degrees, can't really give it an accurate operating temperature but 30 degrees and over didn't work.by mlagana - General
i tried lowering to 240 but then it just wouldn't really extrude.by mlagana - General
i have got loads of junk film from ads and trailers which is generally thick (made mostly by the same multinational corporation that owns the cinemas) i considered layering two lengths of film together to double the width for my x axis (because it is holding the y axis) but it doesn't seem to need it. it has worked perfectly so far except when you treat it badly. Like a few times i have knockedby mlagana - Reprappers
fair enough i'm going to have to agree with you about the price, i have everything here to make one just have to bite the bullet and do it.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
welll after a seven day heat wave today we were met with cold winds which was quite strange but printer seems to be working fine again.by mlagana - General
i probably won't go down that path. although if i can find my blowtorch i am probably test pouring it into this really strong silicone i have, the data sheet doesn't have any info on temperature ratings but i know it can withstand more than 300. alu is 660 or something so it probably won't work but you know. thanks for caring about my heath, i pretty much live with a chemical mask on since i doby mlagana - General
how are we going for numbers?by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
and yes i was surprised to hear there are alu nuts and washers but my dad is completely sure and said he probably still has some somewhere. i can't find any and i'm thinking this could have been a few too many full moons ago. Now i'm wondering how hard it is to cast an aluminum parts, i would need to make a mold that can withstand 660 degrees.by mlagana - General
not sure what 30 guage is but if you get thin stuff try and buy it insulated, putting kapton tape around really thin wire isn't fun and it won't last as long. a lot of people have moved onto using a resistor in an aluminum or brass block and had a lot more success this way, myself included.by mlagana - Reprappers
good work doing your extruder as you work on your axis, i kinda made the 3 axis work, then moved onto the extruder thinking it would be easy but it took up a lot of time and it's much harder to work on an extruder when it's all bolted down to the printer, if your cartesian bot isn't ready yet i would suggest rigging your extruder up somewhere simple and make sure you can reliably extrude beforeby mlagana - General
are you using nichrome or resistor + metal block? i think with nichrome wait a minute but resistor usually takes a few minutes to get to desired temp and you are already good to go. if you're using reprap gcode the printer is going to wait for a minute anyway before printing so i usually hit print as soon as i hit 250.by mlagana - General
that will definitely help it would be better if it came into contact with the barrel itself like this: and possibly had more fins, like those big chunky computer heatsinks. i'm thinking of doing the same as lampmakers version above but trying to source out aluminium nuts and washers. also i can't tell because of the kapton you might have done this but lampmaker has kinda filed away a sectionby mlagana - General
ok just had to confirm that story and turns out his neighbours house was on fire and the fire brigade arrived in time to save his house by spraying the walls, it was the radiant heat from the house next door that melted the LEGO so i should be ok sans bushfires.by mlagana - General
k that didn't solve it although seemed to help. edit: extruder was already 31 deg, with brass around ptfe the filament didn't really plug up till it was completely blocked, but teeth eventually started clogging up. i think i might make an all steel extruder, longer than normal with lots of heat dissipation up top and fan. i also might make an evaporative cooler for my mendels ventilation chambeby mlagana - General
the metal teeth are meant to be pretty small so they can dig into the plastic, the springs force the filament onto the teeth and this creates a considerable amount of forceby mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
i'm not trying to pass judgement here but what specifically about the ToM has given you issues? faulty parts? not following the manual? human error? (in which case don't worry most hiccups are human error) i personally would go with a mendel.. the whole self replication thing, open source=more and faster developments, you can do the whole thing for cheaper, and while the ToM can print indefiniteby mlagana - General
i meant to say 'and i made it a tight fit'by mlagana - General
I should mention that i'm using adrians latest ptfe going into brass + peek design, so far in cool weather it has treated me very well almost got a full mendel except for the x carriage and upper, which i need to extend my stage for. surprisingly the weather dropped, but the extruder was still already at 30 degrees, i tried and after about 15 layers of the XLR bracket it stalled, so i quickly unby mlagana - General
actually one thing i haven't tried is dropping my printing temp from 250 to say 240...by mlagana - General
Anyone else have this problem of no airconditioning, and seemingly too high a room temperature to print? (from sydney australia) The first time i tried printing on a really hot day, (usually i print at night when i get home from work around midnight) my hot zone moved too far up and my extruder jammed. I blame it on the heat because this setup had printed a few large parts during the night and haby mlagana - General
the extruders currently being used have undergone many evolutions or are based on the more evolved setups to get to the reliability that we are finally getting after many of us went through long and frustrating periods of extruders working for a while and then jamming or breaking... i say don't bother, stand on the shoulders of others because it's definetely the hardest part of making a FDMby mlagana - For Sale