I'm ready to introduce a new project of mine. I call it the Slot Bot since the frame is made from slotted angle (2' lengths) that can be purchased at the local hardware store. I'm using lm16uus on 5/8" rod with no problem. I may try to design a 10-12mm version in the future since 5/8" or 16mm rods are a little overkill. The build volume is large at 550 mm x 550 mm x 320 mm! My main goals wereby runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
I've designed this heat bed for my large format CoreXY printer. The bed is 21" x 20" (508 mm x 533 mm) using a 120 VAC heat tape and 1/8" thick aluminum plate. The heat tape is 8' long and I coiled it onto the plate using Kapton to secure it. Should only draw around 2A and I won't need an extra power supply to run it since I'll be using AC mains for power. I'm using a solid state relay with theby runninfarmer - General
Sorry, slow computer double posted.by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
That's why I believe a 120 VAC heated bed is the way to go for larger printers. For a 400 mm x 400 mm bed I'm using 120 VAC heat tape controlled by a solid state relay from the RAMPS board. AC can be scary but it saves having an extra power supply.by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
I've been researching how to convert/amplify the k thermocouple sensor for RAMPs but I'm confused on how it's currently being done? I've found these thermocouple MAX6675 modules with interface boards: The board takes the two k inputs but uses multiple pin outputs. Where would the mutli pin outputs go into the RAMPs board? Thanks for the info!by runninfarmer - General
I'll echo the comments made by Zavashier. It's hard to use a Delta printer as a production printer, IMO, though I'm sure it's being done. Deltas are fun to watch but there's constant wear on all linear motion components. That was the first type of printer I built, and that was a bad idea. Insanely hard to calibrate without autoleveling for a beginner. The stepper noise I had with my Delta was aby runninfarmer - General
I had a similar problem with a friend's machine. We kept inverting a direction and or swapping motor leads to no avail. What did work was to swap both the motor lead and endstop on the y axis for the x-axis! He was using all Min endstops. Also double check the endstop on your board corresponds to the set endstop in your firmware. Are you using max or min endstops? Send M119 command and checkby runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
I designed mine such that they were in the same X-Y alignment, but turned one motor upside down. That way it was symmetrical and each pulley takes on the same amount of lever force.by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
They seem to do a pretty good job. As long as you keep the infill high on them, they're pretty strong.by runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I designed my own variant for 30 mm extrusion: If you print close to 50-100% infill they're pretty strong.by runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'm thinking of designing a a large cube type printer that uses rods for the frame as well as linear motion. It would be 12 rods total, each 2' (600 mm) in length. I'm thinking of using 1/2" (12.7 mm) rod. Is this feasible or will there be two much flex at the corners where I have 3 rods connecting?by runninfarmer - General
Cool hotend, I like it. Does it work well with PLA? I couldn't see from the pics but does it have a fan cooling it? What diameter and length of nichrome wire did you use? Thanks for your info!by runninfarmer - General
Are the axes just 608 bearings riding in aluminum angle? Or is the angle steel? I'm always on the hunt for different linear systems and like what you've done with the angle. Is there any play or binding with axes?by runninfarmer - General
I'm also considering this option. I've seen McMaster carries bearing quality E52100 5/8" rod for a good price with a diameter tolerance of +/- 0.006" (0.15 mm). Would there be too much slop using LM16UU ball bearing?by runninfarmer - General
I'm also considering this option. I've seen McMaster carries bearing quality E52100 5/8" rod for a good price with a diameter tolerance of +/- 0.006" (0.15 mm). Would there be too much slop using LM16UU ball bearing?by runninfarmer - General
Hello, I'm converting an old lab instrument to a 3D printer and need some help with my firmware. The z-axis has a solenoid configured, that when powered, opens a release mechanism to allow the z-axis to move. The z-axis drops without the stop when unpowered. I want to modify the firware so that the solenoid/servo will be powered when the z-axis motor is powered, but shuts off when z-axis shuts oby runninfarmer - Repetier
How did you get your quartz threaded? Was that specially ordered or did you do it?by runninfarmer - General
Your data sheet is the same as mine. Does this mean I just define the resistor for it in firmware, or do I need to actually solder a 160 ohm resistor to the red and/or black wire(s)? Then I can just use the 3 enstop pins on the RAMPS board? Thanks again for all the help!by runninfarmer - General
Would I just solder the red/white together and solder the black/green together? Does that mean the red and black are constantly emitting and when something enters the slot, that sends the signal to the board? Sorry I'm a noob with this stuff. Thanks for the help. It would really be nice to use the current endstop setup. I will start another thread dedicated to the conversion I'm doing once it'sby runninfarmer - General
With a 0.5mm extruded diameter, if you're extruding rate is the same at 0.1mm vs 0.3mm layer height, how would you not have different layer widths with out decreasing extrusion rate? You'd have more compression at same rates for 0.1mm layer height, unless I'm wrong?by runninfarmer - Smart_Rap
I'm converting an old lab instrument to a printer and want to use the current opto endstops on the machine. They're 5 wire photologic slotted opto switches, series OPB980. The question I have is, since there are only 3 connections to the ramps board, which wires do I connect to it? Will these switches even work with it? Thanks for the help! Here are a couple pics:by runninfarmer - General
Your sub-0.1mm layer height prints are impressive. You must have your extruder finely tuned to compensate for that much compression?by runninfarmer - Smart_Rap
I received my delrin tube and seems to fit the rod fairly well. I noticed, like you said reg, that two single bushings have to be exactly lined up or you do get binding. I should have made them a double. I think I can make them work though.by runninfarmer - Smart_Rap
Thanks for info, I'm looking forward to seeing some pics. I went ahead and ordered a 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID delrin tube to try on some 3/8" aluminum rod I picked up at the local hardware store. Once I get those going I'll report my results. The less machining required, the better, so I'm hoping they will work well.by runninfarmer - Smart_Rap
Would delrin tubes work? I've found Mcmasterr-Carr carry's them for imperial rod here: . Do you put notches in the inner diameter of your bushings such as in IGUS bearings?by runninfarmer - Smart_Rap
Cool design. I'm going to try and implement it with 3/8" (9.53 mm) aluminum rod and printed bearings. I've found the rod really cheap at $10 per 8ft at Menards ( Store in midwest). I'm sure Home Depot, Lowes, etc. carry something similar. I'm going to try a lightweight direct drive extruder on the x-axis. I'll post results as soon as I get it setup. Have you tested entire build surface for Xby runninfarmer - Smart_Rap
I have played with using more pulleys to divide up the force necessary to support the carriage. Problems can arise in terms of finding solid anchor points for the pulleys. I found I was running out of convenient extrusion space, until the design would get too complicated. It's definitely better to get something like that working than counterweights.by runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
It's manageable for the x-y axis, but it's too much for the z-axis on 3060 extrusion. I'm working on making a ball bearing based linear bearing for 30 mm extrusions. I'm going to try and use zinc plated BBs that are available at a lot of stores. That way I'm staying true to minimal cost. Not sure how loud it will be but it's worth a go.by runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I've used counter weights on an Ord bot before, since I converted it to belt drive. I used pretty heavy fishing weights myself. Here's a link to my page:by runninfarmer - Delta Machines
I am now ready to introduce the Core-T (previous name I had was used by another robot)! It uses coreXY kinematics and is spectra line driven, with all printed wheels on 608 bearings for linear motion. The frame is a standard 30 series 30 mm extrusion. My main design goal was to avoid using linear rods/bearings and aslo vslot, openbeam, and/or makerslide. Those are nice, but a complete v-wheel/by runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames