FoldaRap

all you need is here, just add a computer to print ^^

(with the previous underplate, but fitted above as a sort of supplementary protection for traveling)

D

the wiring steps, with the board upside, are way more easier now :)

if we can add a second extruder motor, why not anticipate an eventual future upgrade ^^ (like the reprappro-pcb and the auto-z-levelling)

without the previous XZ clamp, it should be possible to use the beam as a guide for the Y-axis (that will save 2 smooth rods, 3 lm6uu and one big RP part, the only one that weren't printable in one piece on the 140x140 bed; saving space too)

redesigned the first part which I started, the hinge (now in two parts, one is for the hinge, the second hold the motor and replace the XZ clamp, the two are slided on the beam)

then I realized it could help in the assembly, to hold some part or to reduce the number of bolts to secure the beams :)

perfect ! (2nd try, with 0,2mm margin)

trying to print a part to slide on the beams (and discovering that the real beam is somewhat different from the blueprint)

turned the psu 90° ; and got rid of the fan, to place the board with connectors upside (the previous idea was nice but just too much hassle to assemble, and on my eMaker Huxley I don't use a fan or if needed it wouldn't be hard to add one in the space on the left). And the peltier bed work like a charm ^^ (20->60°C in 5-10sec)

first moves [1] [2] [3]

tight space

I love this blue switch !

struggling with the wiring of the motors... (in fact the drivers were not at 0.4v but some at 0.7, which explain the pulse)

an easy way to assemble and tension the Y-axis :)

sliding

hmm finally I start to like this red with the alu and the black motors

ready to be added to the frame :)

use a plier to hold the nut (I've added nut trap now)

fit just an M3 nut and no more ^^'

maybe the 4th revision of the Y-motor part (printed, I stop to count the revisions in Sketchup long ago)

the board will be flipped upside down, but can be left like that for the wiring phase

yeah :D I finally found this missing critical part ! A 40x40x10mm fan within an aluminium frame to replace the fan+heatsink in the eMaker/RepRappro hotend and save ~10mm (was a little too big to allow the sliding of the XZ axis in complete storage position). It will also serve to cool the printed part by orientating the fin toward the hotend (the hotend will need a little insulation).

printed spacer, to use the same short bolts as for all the frame (instead of long 45mm bolts)

Everything fit perfectly !!! During this build I'm often surprised by the accuracy of sketchup to reality, when things seems to "just fit", they just fit, and when I discover that something is wrong, I later see that it's also wrong in the model.

when I was a child, I enjoyed making some sorts of lego cars with all the function of a house, even if a "window-grill" seem silly now :p At least I kept the motivation to make compact things ^^

mounting the electronic plate in the tiny space under the bed may be the trickiest part of the build... or maybe not, I just had an idea for the build order that could make it easy and double as a check test of the components :)

the (optional) fan, is placed under the stepper drivers and the y-motor (the board will be reversed to save space)

the underplate replace also two parts that were used to stop the sliding and center the XZ axis

the two models (my favorite is by far the one based on hex holes, but people can make their own pattern ^^), the long holes allow to use a fan from 40 to 60 mm

that also meen struggling sometimes to get the bolt spacing for each fan size

the electronic under-plate is almost finished, I'm now looking for all the existing fan options (low noise)... and a grille pattern :)

now I can hook up the board to play with :) I could upload Marlin but with only one motor it refused to move, I may be obliged to connect everything...

got the model of the plug on traceparts dot com :)

new choice for the arrangement of the electronics : everything on the same side

a close-up of one of the three bolts

the bed with an eventual glass plate

may need to make some space for the wire to be able to be bended (otherwise they risk to touch the end of the frame toward the y-idler)

regroup the cables and add more insulation, I had this from an eMaker Huxley but some tape or kapton is certainly fine, it's only required to reach highest temps or save energy

secure it with short counter-sunk screws

add the insulation-leveling plate (you can add the long bolts with springs at any time)

same for the thermistor

hold the peltier in place with some kapton

the holes for the screws are side-opened, like for the y-frog, for a quick mount without losing the leveling

adding some heatsink compound to help

progressively warming-up the bed to 80°C, and probably more with time =)

sticked it to the side of the aluminium plate, it quickly reached 50°C

hooked up on 12v to see which face is going hot and which cold

started to remove the original eMaker heated-bed (nicrhome), will be replaced by their pcb-heatbed and the old will be used for the Foldarap (or maybe we can try some ceramic plate ?...)

got my peltier element the other day ^^ (and ordered more for the future beta machines)

where I want to place everything, accessible from under :) 12v input near the psu, bed output away, usb and reset button toward the back

Received the board this morning ! And since we can choose the connectors to solder, I took the opportunity to use screw terminals.

the idler can be mounted toward the x-axis for a flexible 3mm tube, or toward the y-axis (previous pic) for a 4mm tube, which is a little less flexible, but stronger to put new filament beside an old one (that cause my 3mm tube to break on the eMaker Huxley)

finally, almost perfect ! (video) the simplest extruder idler ? ^^ Looking forward to test that with a real print :)

at least the idler is a short print

hmm, MA-12-04-M6 would be easier to hold (M5 nut have the same diameter than the body of the fitting) : I just put a wall to rely on, since there is an hex slot inside the fitting, it will be easy to assemble in the idler :) (so even if I didn't choose yet between 2 or 4 mm tubing, both can perfectly work).

and since they have both an M5 thread, they are compatible with the emaker/reprappro hotend =)

These two models are perfect for 3mm and 4mm tubing, and resist fairly well when pulling on the tube (I didn't managed to remove it by force)

I checked the datasheet before ordering, but I can confirm that 1.75mm filament pass through

yay :D just received the pneumatic fittings this morning !

not attached yet, I need to remove the old heatbed from my eMaker Huxley to use it here (or get an alu plate somewhere)

middle hole to accommodate for the peltier element (50x50mm, plus 10mm margin)

second try for the idler, too rigid : maybe with two perimeters instead...

how it should look like (that's not the real bed)

upper max limit : Z=~160mm

reamed the x-end to fit the 6mm wide belt (reprinted the other end)

while the opposite front-foot will receive a standard IEC plug

I love this big blue switch. It's supposed to fit inside one of the front-foot (will make some little modification for that)

perfect fit for this compact psu :) (finally I choose the costly txh-240-112 but other can fit too)

got some stuff from RS today, they ship fast ! (ordered this weekend)

hope it will work :)

I was looking to the reference of the motor in the Up! (nema17 btw), found many interesting user-improvements...inspired by http://www.thingiverse.com/image:111639 I started to rethink the extruder part and came up with that plastic spring idea (far from perfect but you got the principle)

you also have to choose on wich side you like to have access to the bolts/nuts (under is almost always accessible)

slide the y-plate at the middle of the frame, align with the tensioning system and then clamp the belt (can be under or above the y-plate)

pay attention to the orientation of the zip-ties

make a loop at each end of the belt with zip-ties

and slide freely :) http://www.flickr.com/photos/watsdesign/6988410463/

open sides for quick release of the bed without loosing the leveling (need test to confirm), while perfectly locked when tightened

VertX printing the new frog of the FoldaRap :)

frog v3, and all M4 will be in M3 (less weight, one Allen wrench for all)

the emaker huxley belts are 5mm and mine are 6mm wide... need to add 1mm somewhere :p

just got some t2.5 belts and alu pulleys ! (easier to have than gt2...)

adding the brass drive gear and a piece of filament, just to show

extruder with a dummy spring

extruder parts for nema14, but also a x-end with a mount for nema17 in case 14Nm wouldn't be enough

x-axis in place again

now the nuts fitting is just good :)

that would leave room for up to 3 bowden ^^

why not replace one of the extruder part and the fan by an alu plate ?

freshly printed, I had to pause the print to put the nut in place, the next version will have more room (this one was based on guessed dimension of the nut)

this fifth revision make it :)

the nut holder have a little flex, so I beefed them up and increased the spacing around the nut

back in the fablab after two weeks of bootcamp (reprap/cnc) in Africa

direct drive concept, derived from whosawhatis Minimalistic MK7

and one in two parts, for the smaller size printer

for those who don't have access to a lasercutter but a Mendel-sized 3dprinter

direct drive bowden integrated to the x-end-idler, it's gonna be awesome quite experimental :D (encouraged by a similar attempt from Brian)

different way to put the bearing in the idler

kept that idea from the VertX x-ends : open nut-holder, allowing to (un)mount the x-end individually at any time (the belt tightening will keep it in place).

many littles things to implement next ^^

making the XZ clamp a little shorter on a side to allow un/mounting while the coupling is in place

printed parts wear now an indication, in an effort for an assembly (almost) without manual

if cut at 240mm, the little bit sticking out of the bearing can receive a nut (not sure if really useful, thrust bearing ? even if the coupling is good ?)

same coupling as on the eMaker Huxley, tweaked to fit 5mm shaft and 6mm threaded rod, works nice :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kJ6kQqhJVU

the only thing is that it can't be mounted when the z-coupling is here, fail ^^' but a little change will make it

push-fit mounted, it works as is, saving 4 bolt/nuts compared to the previous clamp : adopted

I progressively tested from the light clamp (in case it was sufficient) but finally the heavy one is perfect

but, maybe due to a unfinished print, it's not concentric when fully tightened, will try again...

5mm/6mm version of the three part coupling, hold well the shaft and the rod

let's add a little bit of affordance :)

finally received the motor (Nema14)

thinking about how to manage the extruder now...

funny that the huxley is just few boxes on the right, hooray for little printers !

adding the clamp to lock the XZ-axis, no play at all if the lower hinge is also bolted.

lower hinge bolted

smaller clamp to set the sliding limit (and a try for a belt-clamp)

the hinge with clamp, printed

the z axis is driven by only two threaded rods with two nuts, eventually with a spring to avoid backlash (work without on my actual huxley or mendel with VertX

if you are cutting your threaded rods, don't forget to screw a nut near the cut, it will help remake the thread when you will remove it after the cut

it's possible to insert the bearing by hand, or even easier with a vise. Don't fear to crush the bearing, the printed part is 4mm higher ;)

There was still a little play near the hinge, with that it will be completely immobile, I hope (I think it's already usable, but I want to try that and see if it's perfect then)

easier to put on, also better against flex along the x-axis (only visible when the vertical beams aren't connected by the top beam)

Even the simplest part seems to work !

trying other clamp ideas (in one piece this time)

now the y-idler and y-motor don't require any centering, just push them against the feets of the right side ^^

always good to test something in real, many ideas and correction arise

it was prooving it's possible to fix the XZ on the lower frame, but I need redesign that to suppress the subtle wobble that came from the hinge (the constraint is too short)

first print-test of the clamps

underview of the clamps that limit the sliding movement, for an easy repositioning of the X-axis right in the middle of the Y-axis without thinking about it

almost fit in a stratasys cartridge box :p

the printed parts that were designed until now, more to come :)

a wall was moved to avoid a bridge (even if it was perfectly printed in the first version), it made me think to add something in that little cavity pointing outward, maybe a switch button to power the reprap and or the heated bed ?

30/01 just received the M6 rods and M4x8 bolts from FixnVis (ordered 26/01) ! Seems to be straight and good quality (A2 steel). With 15€ minimum order I bought more than I needed, but that could serve to make 2-3 kits to offer for beta-testing :)

simplicity won (2 parts instead of 6)

the print orientation is good for the rod-clamp function, but it's a little less optimal for the solidity of the bearing and motor holder (under the belt tension... need a good layer bonding)

another idea, is to join the y-axis parts, removing the need to check the spacing between them

Video : testing the assembly of the frame in one time (took 22min ^^) [4]

design-in-progress video 1

video of making the hinges and playing with it : [5] [6]

push-fit connectors for an easy build !

It works as intended alone (but the space for the M8 screw head was too tight, and can be more balanced between the two parts)

the hinge principle in lego

Now I can start designing the printed parts, especially the hinge.

09/01 I ordered the aluminium parts (from KJN) 12/01 Order arrived !! (neat, I would recommend them)

room for the psu/arduino and/or for a Huxley_mini-spool

Finally I'm also searching on the T-slot way, probably more robust than printed parts that may risk to shatter ?

if the same big piece is used on the right side, it may be possible to use a direct-drive-bowden fixed to the x-axis (x-end-idler)

some changes for a more reasonable first iteration (2 z-motors will make the proof of concept easier), and if I want to make something very transportable I may better start with an Huxley-sized machine, taking appart an eMaker Huxley and replacing the rods by these printed parts

an idea for tensioning the belt between the two z-rods

two bearing to constrain the z-threaded-rod, and maybe no linear-bearing nor smooth-rods

First sketches