An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500

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the_digital_dentist
Auto switching just means that the power input to the power supply can be either 120 or 240V. It has nothing to do with the output voltage.

The chamber heater runs on the line voltage, not low voltage DC. The fan that blows the air over the heater is rated for 24VDC, but would operate very quietly on a lower voltage.

The CubeX machines had 15V power supplies.

The power supply should be marked with the output voltages and current limits.

I'll inspect it when I get it from my locker today

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advancedrescue

Quote
the_digital_dentist
Auto switching just means that the power input to the power supply can be either 120 or 240V. It has nothing to do with the output voltage.

The chamber heater runs on the line voltage, not low voltage DC. The fan that blows the air over the heater is rated for 24VDC, but would operate very quietly on a lower voltage.

The CubeX machines had 15V power supplies.

The power supply should be marked with the output voltages and current limits.

I'll inspect it when I get it from my locker today

Hi, are the main boards the same on both printers as well?
Maybe on the X mainboard there is a 24v to 12v regulator?

No, CubeX uses a different controller. The Cube Pro board includes wireless networking, among other things.

There is a 7812 regulator on the CubeX controller board, but they aren't running the extruder heaters from that because it can't provide nearly enough current.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Ok here's the boards. The pro does run off of 24V. But not sure if the main board does.
First two pictures are of the power board.

Then there's this board which I'm assuming controls what power goes where...
I'll know more tonight when I get it set up the way it was but I don't believe the power to the main board went thru this board tho, so it's almost like it's an accessory board.

Then here's the main board. It's actually the same board in my cube 3! Which also runs off of 24v:/


Sorry if am alittle slow with all this.

Mmm, not familiair with these boards, hope someone could help you out here.

I actually got all the electronics from the pro wired up and powered on today. All components work, I actually wired up extruders and stepper motors, etc. Mainly to get an understanding how it all works and different voltage to various parts. Going to do some test tomorrow with more components to see the voltage for them. I'll be at the station tomorrow(yeah my shift has christmas this year), so I'll get plenty of time to play with it.

So far I know the main board does draw 24V. The chamber heater has two components I believe. One is the fan inside it, the other is the heater. When powered on the fan in the heater runs continuously. I haven't got it to heat yet, there not an option on in the menu. Knowing how 3DS does things I'm sure the heater only runs when printing, or printing abs.

All this may or may not get worked on tomorrow, as hopefully my wife gives me my Christmas present tonight which will be the duet wifi board. My mother in law(wife probably ordered for her) got me 2 E3D volcano extruders and hotends. Only issue is I think they got the 12V, which I wanted 24V. It's fine for now, and perhaps for good, I can upgrade to 24V extruders later if I want seeing as how the duet wifi can do both.

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advancedrescue
All this may or may not get worked on tomorrow, as hopefully my wife gives me my Christmas present tonight which will be the duet wifi board. My mother in law(wife probably ordered for her) got me 2 E3D volcano extruders and hotends. Only issue is I think they got the 12V, which I wanted 24V. It's fine for now, and perhaps for good, I can upgrade to 24V extruders later if I want seeing as how the duet wifi can do both.

I asked for 3D printer/quadcopter stuff from my wife, and I got a die cast airplane coin bank instead... I was thinking "you really don't know me that well do you?" (with a smile)... thankfully, my company gave me a nice bonus this year... I just ordered all the parts I need to build a Delta printer... I'm just a little torn on which controller to get. I'm actually loving my Replicape, but I'd like to try a Duet or Smoothie.

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Dancook

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advancedrescue
All this may or may not get worked on tomorrow, as hopefully my wife gives me my Christmas present tonight which will be the duet wifi board. My mother in law(wife probably ordered for her) got me 2 E3D volcano extruders and hotends. Only issue is I think they got the 12V, which I wanted 24V. It's fine for now, and perhaps for good, I can upgrade to 24V extruders later if I want seeing as how the duet wifi can do both.

I asked for 3D printer/quadcopter stuff from my wife, and I got a die cast airplane coin bank instead... I was thinking "you really don't know me that well do you?" (with a smile)... thankfully, my company gave me a nice bonus this year... I just ordered all the parts I need to build a Delta printer... I'm just a little torn on which controller to get. I'm actually loving my Replicape, but I'd like to try a Duet or Smoothie.

LOL, good story.

I printed a rack for filament to fit on my CubeX. It uses a piece of 3/4" schedule 40 pipe to hold spools and unspooled filament samples.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Looks OK, as long as it serves your needs.
I did it this way so I can put the top back on when done printing.

That's a good idea! Maybe rev2...

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Quote
the_digital_dentist
That's a good idea! Maybe rev2...

It can be put on eider side, front or back of the top, even slide it to get as close to the extruder to get minimal drag.
After done printing, remove fillement from the printhead and put the top cover on

Are we Mac users able to slice with Simplify3D and feed our Cube3's ?

I'm getting a CubeX for $495 brand new (i hope!) so some of you got very good deals on them!!

Btw we're also trying to hack/reprap/liberate the Cube3:

[cube3.print3dforum.com]
[www.print3dforum.com]
[www.openbuilds.com]


Any help will be appreciated!

I think I need to mess with Jerk and acceleration settings. What do you guys use?

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If you need some help, or don't understand what I just said, feel free to send me a PM anytime

Printer: Prusa i3, 2 E3D v6 Hotends, Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 with a Bypassed 5V Regulator, 400w Insignia ATX PSU, Custom Designed Bowden Extruders

Is it overextruding as well?

Are we suppose to mine meld and know your printer situation?

Would help to know what printer configuration.
Yes its a CubeX.
What mods? what hot end, PLA?
Firmware?
Firmware settings, slicer settings, bed temp, extruder temperature.

Argh Print is crappy --- don't know anything --- fix it?????

Get a note book -- take notes --- annotate --- that didn't work
adjust one parameter note what it does
soon you will be one with your printer

Quote
cozmicray
Are we suppose to mine meld and know your printer situation?

Would help to know what printer configuration.
Yes its a CubeX.
What mods? what hot end, PLA?
Firmware?
Firmware settings, slicer settings, bed temp, extruder temperature.

Argh Print is crappy --- don't know anything --- fix it?????

Get a note book -- take notes --- annotate --- that didn't work
adjust one parameter note what it does
soon you will be one with your printer

Best thing you can do for anything containing the name "Cube" is remove the controller and replace it with any of the boards we've been discussing... Duet, Smoothie, Replicape.... I'm sure someone will defend the 8 bit boards, but I'm 32 bit all the way. I use my Replicape every day, and get great results 9 out of 10 times.

I also use an E3D V6 hot end and an E3D Titan extruder... they work great together... I've ran PLA, TPU and the latest, Proto Pasta Carbon Fiber through it with very few issues.

Trial and error is unfortunately the game plan here... each printer will have it's nuances that you have to figure out.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2017 01:27PM by Dancook.

Just rip out everything?

You could be printing or hassling with wiring, boards firmware
and maybe print in 12 weeks.

Just use it as it is for a bit, learn weaknesses, strong points

Hey I have CubeX duo-- got it for $300 just like new
Used cubeX software
Fed my own filament in




works pretty well?

I am planning on electronics change --- when it pisses me off!

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cozmicray
I am planning on electronics change --- when it pisses me off!

I got my Cubex Duo for roughly the same price... sadly, I have no prints to show from the original electronics, because they were all shit. The original hot ends clogged and jammed constantly... the software sucked. I ripped the board out and yep, spent about 12 weeks working on it, lol...

I kept all the steppers as they were... just added the Replicape board, touch screen display (Manga Screen), new end stop switches, E3D hotend/extruder and a 300 x 300 heated bed. There was a little bit of fabrication on the X assembly and bed frame, but if you're the "Maker" type, it's just part of the fun.

The software and configuration file took some time to get used to, but I had it printing almost perfectly in a week or two.

As far as printing temperatures, most manufacturers will give you a range to use... heated bed temps are typically 60C for PLA, 120C for ABS... and even that takes trial and error. After three or four failed prints, you usually figure it out :-)

Here's a quick video of mine printing when I first got it set up... I've since added a new heated bed since that one fried itself. The cooling fan on the E3D V6 is notoriously loud... actally the loudest part of my printer.

[youtu.be]

Quote
DaGameFace
[attachment 88310 20170104_124644-1316x1449.jpg]
[attachment 88311 20170104_124525-1182x1206.jpg]

I think I need to mess with Jerk and acceleration settings. What do you guys use?

Yes its a cubeX and it isn't overextruding, Ive played with that a lot, solid infills are perfect, next I had tried messing with retractions, and decreased stringing that way. The ugly parts of the print are during abrupt changes, therefore jerk and or acceleration, I had turned both down to make the printer smoother but think that it caused worse printing results.

So I'll ask again, What settings are you guys using?

(PLA, Ramps 2 in 1, custom hot ends seen on page 11, no heated bed yet, cooling fans were used, multiple parts printed at once so cooling wasnt an issue)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2017 07:34PM by DaGameFace.

Hi everyone,
I have a CubePro duo, same kinematics as the CubeX, that I am also converting to a reprap, I don't frequent the forums and just found this, but I am well into the conversion already (Electronics stripped, hotends removed, RUMBA and PSU already isntalled, just waiting on my new v6's). Before I reassemled the gantry I forgot to check the pulleys on the printer, does anyone know the pully size or steps per MM they put in their firmware?
Thanks
Also if anyone has any questions about the CubePro don't hesitate to ask, my school has one with everything stock (and I'm the only one who knows how to operate it ) and I have this conversion, so I can probably tell you almost anything about it stock or not. I also have a guide I will be publishing to convert the CubePro to reprap.

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jmar896
Hi everyone,
I have a CubePro duo, same kinematics as the CubeX, that I am also converting to a reprap, I don't frequent the forums and just found this, but I am well into the conversion already (Electronics stripped, hotends removed, RUMBA and PSU already isntalled, just waiting on my new v6's). Before I reassemled the gantry I forgot to check the pulleys on the printer, does anyone know the pully size or steps per MM they put in their firmware?
Thanks
Also if anyone has any questions about the CubePro don't hesitate to ask, my school has one with everything stock (and I'm the only one who knows how to operate it ) and I have this conversion, so I can probably tell you almost anything about it stock or not. I also have a guide I will be publishing to convert the CubePro to reprap.

Hi welcome on board, I think you can find the info you seek on page 3 post 4,

My printed filament rack is not working as expected. If the filament gets a little loose, like when the extruder is directly below the spool, the stiffness of the filament is enough to cause a few loops to spring off the spool if the spool is new and full of filament. I found that raising the spool vertically by about 10 cm solves the problem. The spool axle needs to be about 300 mm above the top of the printer's acrylic enclosure. Back to the drawing board...



Hmmm. embedding an image doesn't seem to be working. Try [mark.rehorst.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2017 12:14PM by the_digital_dentist.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Putting your spool holders on the back or on the side may also work.
As you know mine sits on the back or the side of the printer and I have no problems.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2017 01:08PM by fg dude.

I'll be moving to the back of the printer...

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I'm going to be the one defending ramps 1.4. It's the cheapest solution, and while the CubeX has solid mechanics it isn't going to be printing at any speed/capacity that board and it's compatible firmwares couldn't support. Others will argue with me regarding quality of cheap chinese boards, I bought mine from a reputable amazon seller and have not had any issues. My print quality went up 300% with just default marlin settings and an E3D clone hot-end. It's not a complete plug-n-play endeavor but if cost is an issue for you, as it was for me, it's a proven electronics that works.

Quote
cozmicray
Just rip out everything?

You could be printing or hassling with wiring, boards firmware
and maybe print in 12 weeks.

Just use it as it is for a bit, learn weaknesses, strong points

Hey I have CubeX duo-- got it for $300 just like new
Used cubeX software
Fed my own filament in


[attachment 88313 benchy2.jpg]

works pretty well?

I am planning on electronics change --- when it pisses me off!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2017 09:46PM by obelisk79.

Quote
DaGameFace
I think I need to mess with Jerk and acceleration settings. What do you guys use?

Acceleration: 1200
Jerk X/Y: 8

What speed are you trying to print?

PLA or ABS? Temp?

Do you have an active fan duct to cool while you print?

Can you post another pic with something to reference for size like a quarter?

@obelisk79

mind sharing your firmware file for that 300% increase?

Which marlin release did you use?


Cheers!

Quote
obelisk79
I'm going to be the one defending ramps 1.4. It's the cheapest solution, and while the CubeX has solid mechanics it isn't going to be printing at any speed/capacity that board and it's compatible firmwares couldn't support. Others will argue with me regarding quality of cheap chinese boards, I bought mine from a reputable amazon seller and have not had any issues. My print quality went up 300% with just default marlin settings and an E3D clone hot-end. It's not a complete plug-n-play endeavor but if cost is an issue for you, as it was for me, it's a proven electronics that works.

Quote
cozmicray
Just rip out everything?

You could be printing or hassling with wiring, boards firmware
and maybe print in 12 weeks.

Just use it as it is for a bit, learn weaknesses, strong points

Hey I have CubeX duo-- got it for $300 just like new
Used cubeX software
Fed my own filament in


[attachment 88313 benchy2.jpg]

works pretty well?

I am planning on electronics change --- when it pisses me off!