New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China

Hi I'm looking for some help setting up dual extrusion.
I've have used this board (Ver 1.3) for some time without issues, however I'm struggling to get two extruders working. When I attempt to turn the heater on for any individual extruder, it turns both heaters on (both LED's come on at the same time and both hotends heat up). When I try to extrude from the second extruder (T1) it only extrudes from the first extruder (T0). I have tried the latest edge ... no luck.

Here is the relevant config section.




## Extruder module configuration
# See [smoothieware.org]
extruder.hotend.enable true # Whether to activate the extruder module at all. Config is ignored if false
extruder.hotend.steps_per_mm 277 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper
extruder.hotend.default_feed_rate 600 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
extruder.hotend.acceleration 500 # Acceleration for the stepper motor mm/sec²
extruder.hotend.max_speed 50 # Maximum speed in mm/s

extruder.hotend.step_pin 2.3 # Pin for extruder step signal
extruder.hotend.dir_pin 0.22 # Pin for extruder dir signal ( add '!' to reverse direction )
extruder.hotend.en_pin 0.21 # Pin for extruder enable signal

# Extruder offset
#extruder.hotend.x_offset 0 # X offset from origin in mm
#extruder.hotend.y_offset 0 # Y offset from origin in mm
#extruder.hotend.z_offset 0 # Z offset from origin in mm

# Firmware retract settings when using G10/G11, these are the defaults if not defined, must be defined for each extruder
# if not using the defaults

#extruder.hotend.retract_length 3 # Retract length in mm
#extruder.hotend.retract_feedrate 45 # Retract feedrate in mm/sec
#extruder.hotend.retract_recover_length 0 # Additional length for recover
#extruder.hotend.retract_recover_feedrate 8 # Recover feedrate in mm/sec (should be less than retract feedrate)
#extruder.hotend.retract_zlift_length 0 # Z-lift on retract in mm, 0 disables
#extruder.hotend.retract_zlift_feedrate 6000 # Z-lift feedrate in mm/min (Note mm/min NOT mm/sec)

delta_current 2.0 # First extruder stepper motor current

# Second extruder module configuration
#extruder.hotend2.enable true # Whether to activate the extruder module at all. Cnfig is ignored if false
#extruder.hotend2.steps_per_mm 277 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper
#extruder.hotend2.default_feed_rate 600 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
#extruder.hotend2.acceleration 500 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
#extruder.hotend2.max_speed 50 # mm/s

#extruder.hotend2.step_pin 2.8 # Pin for extruder step signal
#extruder.hotend2.dir_pin 2.13 # Pin for extruder dir signal ( add '!' to reverse direction )
#extruder.hotend2.en_pin 4.29 # Pin for extruder enable signal

extruder.hotend2.x_offset 0 # x offset from origin in mm
extruder.hotend2.y_offset 17.5 # y offset from origin in mm
extruder.hotend2.z_offset 0 # z offset from origin in mm

#epsilon_current 1.5 # Second extruder stepper motor current


## Laser module configuration
# See [smoothieware.org]
laser_module_enable false # Whether to activate the laser module at all
laser_module_pwm_pin 2.5 # This pin will be PWMed to control the laser.
# Only pins 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 1.18, 1.20, 1.21, 1.23,
# 1.24, 1.26, 3.25 and 3.26
# can be used since laser requires hardware PWM
#laser_module_ttl_pin 1.30 # This pin turns on when the laser is on, and off when the laser turns off.
#laser_module_maximum_power 1.0 # This is the maximum duty cycle that will be applied to the laser
#laser_module_minimum_power 0.0 # This is a value just below the minimum duty cycle that keeps the laser
# active without actually burning.
#laser_module_default_power 0.8 # This is the default laser power that will be used for cuts if a power
# has not been specified. The value is a scale between
# the maximum and minimum power levels specified above
#laser_module_pwm_period 20 # This sets the pwm frequency as the period in microseconds

## Temperature control configuration
# See [smoothieware.org]

# First hotend configuration
temperature_control.hotend.enable true # Whether to activate this ( "hotend" ) module at all.
temperature_control.hotend.thermistor_pin 0.23 # Pin for the thermistor to read
temperature_control.hotend.heater_pin 2.7 # Pin that controls the heater, set to nc if a readonly thermistor is being defined
temperature_control.hotend.thermistor EPCOS100K # See [smoothieware.org]
#temperature_control.hotend.beta 4066 # Or set the beta value
temperature_control.hotend.set_m_code 104 # M-code to set the temperature for this module
temperature_control.hotend.set_and_wait_m_code 109 # M-code to set-and-wait for this module
temperature_control.hotend.designator T0 # Designator letter for this module
#temperature_control.hotend.max_temp 270 # Set maximum temperature - Will prevent heating above 300 by default
#temperature_control.hotend.min_temp 0 # Set minimum temperature - Will prevent heating below if set

# Safety control is enabled by default and can be overidden here, the values show the defaults
# See [smoothieware.org]
#temperature_control.hotend.runaway_heating_timeout 900 # How long it can take to heat up, max is 2040 seconds.
#temperature_control.hotend.runaway_cooling_timeout 0 # How long it can take to cool down if temp is set lower, max is 2040 seconds
#temperature_control.hotend.runaway_range 20 # How far from the set temperature it can wander, max setting is 63°C

# PID configuration
# See [smoothieware.org]
#temperature_control.hotend.p_factor 13.7 # P ( proportional ) factor
#temperature_control.hotend.i_factor 0.097 # I ( integral ) factor
#temperature_control.hotend.d_factor 24 # D ( derivative ) factor

#temperature_control.hotend.max_pwm 64 # Max pwm, 64 is a good value if driving a 12v resistor with 24v.

# Second hotend configuration
temperature_control.hotend2.enable true # Whether to activate this ( "hotend" ) module at all.
temperature_control.hotend2.thermistor_pin 0.25 # Pin for the thermistor to read
temperature_control.hotend2.heater_pin 2.6 # Pin that controls the heater
temperature_control.hotend2.thermistor EPCOS100K # See [smoothieware.org]
##temperature_control.hotend2.beta 4066 # or set the beta value
temperature_control.hotend2.set_m_code 104 # M-code to set the temperature for this module
temperature_control.hotend2.set_and_wait_m_code 109 # M-code to set-and-wait for this module
temperature_control.hotend2.designator T1 # Designator letter for this module

#temperature_control.hotend2.p_factor 13.7 # P ( proportional ) factor
#temperature_control.hotend2.i_factor 0.097 # I ( integral ) factor
#temperature_control.hotend2.d_factor 24 # D ( derivative ) factor

#temperature_control.hotend2.max_pwm 64 # Max pwm, 64 is a good value if driving a 12v resistor with 24v.

temperature_control.bed.enable true # Whether to activate this ( "hotend" ) module at all.
temperature_control.bed.thermistor_pin 0.24 # Pin for the thermistor to read
temperature_control.bed.heater_pin 2.5 # Pin that controls the heater
temperature_control.bed.thermistor Honeywell100K # See [smoothieware.org]
#temperature_control.bed.beta 3974 # Or set the beta value
temperature_control.bed.set_m_code 140 # M-code to set the temperature for this module
temperature_control.bed.set_and_wait_m_code 190 # M-code to set-and-wait for this module
temperature_control.bed.designator B # Designator letter for this module

# Bang-bang ( simplified ) control
# See [smoothieware.org]
temperature_control.bed.bang_bang true # Set to true to use bang bang control rather than PID
temperature_control.bed.hysteresis 2.0 # Set to the temperature in degrees C to use as hysteresis

Does anyone know what SMD at F2 is? the one with number "15" on it? I reversed the 12V power and it caused the F2 to spark. now it won't turn on using 12v but It does turn on using USB cable.
I'm an electronic noob so I googled it and it seems like it is a zener diode or is it?. anyone know a direct replacement?

thanks in advance.

Hi! Few days ago I received my MKS SBASE 1.3 board with MKS TFT32 from aliexpress seller "HUA KE ELECTRONIC CO.,LTD.". I uploaded the newest Smoothiware firmware, and after some config the printer works. Yesterday I printed an object, and approxx 50% the printing broken. I think was a short blackout, a second time printed well. Later I tried print another model, but the printing broken again. I can't see nothing blackout, just printing stopped, after this, I can't controll trough LCD, need reset the LCD board.

What do you think, what is the problem? My power supply 24 V, 17A, IMHO enough for my Prusa P3 steel. Is the newest smoothie firmware have bug? Or I need the firmware, what is on the MKS SBASE github page?

Thanks for help!

Istvan from Hungary

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/16/2017 04:11AM by feket663.

Do you print from USB or SD-card?
Printing from USB can cause trouble, when the data stream stopps for some reason.

I'm printing form USB stick, but, if I remember correctly, once reboot the board when I move the axises with LCD module (without printing).

If you are using the file you posted, you have the 2nd extruder commented out. Remove the # before all the 2nd extruder lines.

Hey all,

I'm trying to set up my new MKS-SBASE board on my delta.

I cannot reverse direction of the alpha stepper motor. I've tried setting alpha_dir_pin to 0.5 or 0.5! No change.

I was able to successfully change the beta and gamma steppers, so I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right.

I swapped the plugs for my alpha and beta motors, just to be sure there's nothing wrong with the stepper itself. As expected, the beta stepper started going backwards.

I also verified that the config setting was actually being read by checking with @config-get. It is.

I'm testing by issuing the G28 command, which should home 'up.' The rest of my configuration is typical delta. I started with the smoothieware default delta config file.

Any idea what I'm missing?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2017 11:07PM by mkeveney.

I've done a bit more experimenting. With a variety of firmware versions and configuration files, the alpha stepper turns in only one direction. I connect with Pronterface and command small steps in positive X; then negative X... the alpha (or X) stepper turns in the same direction in every case.

I'm convinced I have a bad board. I'll contact the MKS folks and see if I can exchange it.

Anyone else run into this?

-Matt

Quote
kylaris
Does anyone know what SMD at F2 is? the one with number "15" on it? I reversed the 12V power and it caused the F2 to spark. now it won't turn on using 12v but It does turn on using USB cable.
I'm an electronic noob so I googled it and it seems like it is a zener diode or is it?. anyone know a direct replacement?

thanks in advance.

Same here, but I blew up the D2 (diode). I think the F2 is a FUSE.

Does anyboy know the values of these parts?

Thanks in advance!!!

are you have some problem to tune fan?
i can t arrive ti use them ..i have followed the wiki so i don t understand why they doesn t work..

Quote
epoxi
Same here, but I blew up the D2 (diode). I think the F2 is a FUSE.

Does anyboy know the values of these parts?

Thanks in advance!!!

For anyone with the same problem, the values of these parts are:

F2: 15A - Package: SMD - 3216
D6 (not D2): S1G - Package: DO-214AC (SMA)

don't use their firmware use smoothiewares-edge theres issus with their mks firmware not the config fill then your endstops will work correctly

---

Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]

Just wanted to report that my MKS-SBASE board was indeed defective. The MKS folks repaired and returned it. A bad controller chip I understand.

It took over four weeks to ship from US to China via USMail... If you need to make a return, I recommend you find another option. Shipping from China back to me was just 11 days. Otherwise it all went smoothly. MKS handled it well with good communication.

Given that I've seen no similar reports in this forum, I'm inclined to believe it was a one-time thing and can still recommend MKS.

The board works nicely and seems to operate more smoothly than my old RAMPS board, but that's purely a subjective observation.

I also got the TFT32 touch screen, mostly to just check it out. It works well and was easy to set up. It has some configurability, but not as much as I'd like. I think MKS would do well to open-source the code; It might make a great front-end for laser cutters and other CNC machines.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2017 11:04PM by mkeveney.

By the way....


I left my micro-stepping jumper in the 16x position. My printer is configured and running fine.

Do you folks use 32x? Has anyone tried both and seen a significant difference?

-Matt

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2017 11:03PM by mkeveney.

Quote
flyway97
Hi, you can find all the data about MKS TFT at [github.com] .
we will keep on develop the firmware, if have any suggest please send email to king@makerbase.com.cn.
but we can't provide the source code, we feel very sorry for that.

have you all fixed the ethernet issues on the 1.3 sbase boards?

Mks support is poor,,,response is slow and when Mis King respond you will get no any help..My MKS Sbase1,2 network do not work and i am not able to get second extruder reading,I get constant print freezes in middle of long time prints when use S3D slicer ,,,several e-mail and attempt to contact MKS on aliexpress failed,,,Finally i get sarcastic reply from Miss King and opinion than board do not work because i am retarder,,,all board she sell works prefect bit i am only guy not able to set up , Since Frank Way change job position support d not exist..Only thing MKS want is to take your money and than they stop respond,

HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO AVOID BUYING MKS PRODUCT ESPECIALLY PARASITE MKS SBASE FAKE OPEN SOURCE BOARD

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2017 05:54AM by edvard051.

no problem with mine
i have 1.3
you should send back the defective board``
open an opposition that all and stop to cry

I just sent to garbage and install new board ,

Hello,

I was just looking through the github page for this board, and any schematics/layouts etc. are gone. I realize that they were only .pdfs and not design files. By any chance does anyone have a copy of them that they would be willing to send to me. Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,
John

Anybody got a solution for my problem:

My board powers/functions just fine from the usb connector, but does nothing at all when i try to power it from the port with 12v (tried multiple power supply's and triple checked the polarity) anybody a clue what's wrong?

Thanks guys

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2017 04:45PM by diedirk.

Hello everyone, I also bought one of these Chinese smoothie boards (MKS-SBASE V1.3 and MKS-TFT32 V3.0) which arrived today; These boards have the latest firmware pre-loaded (https://github.com/makerbase-mks) so all I have done so far is the hardware connections so that I can run a quick test. I have a couple of issues that I hope someone can steer me in the right direction.

1) I connected the display to the board and all looks OK except it's not communicating with the board. When I try to manually move an motor, nothing happens. I think this may be due to the baud rate being different than that of the MKS-SBASE. I see no setting to change this. Any ideas??

2) I connected a set of motors to the main board and set the micro-stepping to 32 steps/mm. I connected the board via USB to my computer and used Pronterface to connect. The X and Y axis move at 32 s/mm but the Z axis moves at a very fast speed. Is there something wrong with this board or is this perhaps a smoothieware configuration issue??

Thanks

hi all, it's your old munchit1 here..with a methodic 'reply' regaurding 'support' in general.

doesnt matter how complaints about the lack of support is worded it boils down to....

arther?not specificaly 'targeting you here' but..a sinario...

you are obviously inteligent, more than a big most, as such it's safe to assume you suffer serious frustration at having to answer 'half baked' questions etc etc...yes it is frustrating, i've the desc thing, i've done support etc etc...
it 'itttses yu right off at some point? ohh yes it does...

heres the methodic bit..
the manaual sais f*****off if you dont understand it... and 80% of your buyers tend to get a little angry at this.(we then petty fi we never said that one word)
you in return then get frustrated at the 'thicko's..(it really is beneath a genious to be nobbing about with the underlings, you really should know better)
the thicko's get really angry back!
so you get angry....(you caused your own anger and frustrasions, whats worse is you really really do poses enough brain power to both understand, and, resolve the issue. there for you must be enjoying what your doing?)

(the repeat loup?)

there is a solusion..

actualy write the manual that can be used by all, not just the people who know already and dont need the manual....du dahhhhh?(IQ stats...15% genious's market verses the other 85%..comprenday?)
the main reason being, you wont have to deal with 60% of the questions to start with...(and the product you want to sell will be in use for all who buy it...hurray a posative outcome in cash!)
simply quoting 'there is a manual' does nothing more than be little yourself and the company.
(sorry arthur..again it isnt just 'at you' it goes to all the no comprenday companies).

now then, there is a uk law that pritty much says if you sell it it must A. conform to its specs. B be fit for purpose for X amount of time. and C. the manual must allow the buyer to use it...
the only saving grace is no body is actualy aware, nor doing anything about it...(thats periodic just like house prices and depresions)

so..lets take a look at the bizness end of it..
product..no specs..no manual...no help.. sold 5 this year. (had 2 returned as they couldnt use it).
product 2..with specs and with manual that is usable...sold 500 (20 returned).
product 3...with acurate specs, very good manual, very good after sales/help..sold 5000 (156 returned).....(not just smarmed off...)

bottom line is the market you target, these companies 'assume' the buyers are thick enough to just send them money...then go away after some rather shitty after sales..................................
when you look after people they buy even more and advise everyone they know to buy one, they in turn advise everyone they know verses 'theyre awful, no manual no after sales no help no nothing...or smarmy quirps about their being manuals 'for people who arnt not thick like you'...........the thick know they are and they certainly dont need rubbing into it now!


so are the 3d printer board manufactueres actualy stupid enough to reduce their own profit margins?
yes? why?


EEEEEEEEEEEEEE GGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


this cannot get any simpler...penny pinching in the here and now makes peanuts...long turm prosperity makes a f***** ton...erm who's the stupid ones?


it cant get any simpler i'm afraid.

Quote
munchit1
actualy write the manual that can be used by all,

That is and has always been the most important criteria we all have in mind when writing the manual. Why you don't think it is, I'm not sure ...

I actually get about once a week an email from a new person telling me how happy they are that the wiki is written in a way that is so easy to understand for a complete beginner like them.

And once a year or so I get somebody like you saying it's not ...

I'm not sure why it works for some people and not for others, but I'm fairly certain it's impossible to make a documentation that makes everyone happy.

Quote
munchit1
not just the people who know already and dont need the manual....du dahhhhh?(IQ stats...15% genious's market verses the other 85%..comprenday?)

How about instead of repeatedly saying you don't understand the documentation, instead you just tell me something you don't understand.

Please point me at something in particular I can improve, and I *will* improve it.

In the past, maybe a hundred people have told me things I could improve ( specifically ) and in *all* cases I have worked on improving it.

But just saying "it's bad" doesn't allow me to fix anything specific.

I have spent months on this documentation, and it is by far the most complete of any around. It *is* written specifically for complete newcomers ( assuming they take care of reading it and not just skimming it ). If you have any ideas of how to improve it, please tell me and I will improve it, I have *always* listened to remarks in the past.

Quote
munchit1
you suffer serious frustration at having to answer 'half baked' questions etc etc...yes it is frustrating,

Actually I don't. And I have no idea how you came to think that. The vast majority of users who contact me for help ( I spend about 4 hours a day helping users / 360 days a year ), have read the documentation.

As such they contact me mostly about issues that the documentation doesn't cover. Whenever I can, I add the answer to their question to the documentation ( which is how it has gotten so big and complete ).

There is no frustration here. About 95+% of users who contact me have read and understood the documentation, and express their question in a useful manner.

The 5% remaining are not newcomers, instead they tend to mostly be very experienced users who think they know the system so well that they don't bother reading the documentation. This leads to them making mistakes or misunderstanding. It's usually easily fixed by pointing them to a specific part of the documentation.

Pretty much everything you have assumed in this message is the opposite of the day-to-day reality of doing Smoothie-related support ...

Quote
munchit1
the manaual sais f*****off if you dont understand it... and 80% of your buyers tend to get a little angry at this.(we then petty fi we never said that one word)

I'm sorry but how did you get this figure ? Actually users angry at the documentation are incredibly rare.

The majority of Smoothie users are complete beginners, and it's very very rare for a user to be displeased by the documentation. It's definitely smaller than one percent. Your 80% figure is complete fantasy ...

Quote
munchit1
you in return then get frustrated at the 'thicko's..(it really is beneath a genious to be nobbing about with the underlings, you really should know better)

That pretty much never happens. I actively work on making sure it doesn't.

Maybe I'm wrong or misunderstanding, can you point me at an example of me reacting this way online ?

ok, i said it wasnt entirely directed at you..

the example of an eleectronic diagram (the one with the red lines inbetween the posative wires is one).... just when the non electronic engineer is just getting his/her head around it bammo! bamboozled back to non understanding.(the maual f***ked um up)
the majority of people getting into the 3D printer feild are non starters, theyve live mundain hard worked and long houred jobs to make ends meet, it kills yu brain, so they finaly get enough cash to do something intresting, only to find they needed a degree to understand stuff.(thwarted).

i have a smoothie board, three drivers stopped at once, i tried as i may to get help but alas we parted at the 'oh its a lot of trouble' to just tell which board pins went to which driver pins (as the standard noterisations on your board have new names)... theres one strong indication theres summut up? 'we'll call it fibonderito 73x...do you know what one is? the art of not telling whilste babbling very many important words is the death of an econamy...fact.


try this one, 34F96 goes to? obviously every one knows what one is?
call the DIN a ermmm zebady prushous and neglenct to ever explain what one is?

the axis rename was no problem, it was documented...and yes in reality would have only taken a few minutes to work out by trial and error..alas when you have to 'trial and error' a complete program? 73 other items and sub settings? it means the manual failed.(well it does to everyone else, or more to the point to every one else that it was written for!)

i cant see how you can have the intalect and yet cant understand such a basic concept...the people reading the manual are finding it lacking and quite often confusing....i.e. the majority see fault in it.
now i actualy thought the web site was fantastik..tbh it was a shed load more info than pritty much all the other guys....thats why i thought it a shame that at the end of all that reading it was quite ermmm... not that informative...from my point of veiw it was a shame that after all that effert ehhhh..yu know...some luvly woffle, thank for trying but..erghhh yu know....???)
your not writing for people who know already....were you born with knowladge? and yes i know it popsable to hot house the featus whilste still in the mothers belly.....

in reality it;s lego building leval stuff......IF you got the instructions... pin 1 goes to A4...woopy do that was hard? etc etc etc..
activate pin 1 with this comand 'pin1 goes hi'.........not hard is it?
now try this, F4 goes via the alternating fubar pin (no pin any where called that is there? no further info?...how can anyone posabley do it? unless you know the board, can build the bord and fully understand all the electronics. (i.e. the manual failed the user).

the point is people buy the board from you because they themselves havent got 4 years to do the degree and a further 5 years of exsperience....they buy the pre made board in the vain hope the instructions will enable them to 3D print...(it soort of instructs them that they are thick, when in fact it is the manual that failed..i.e. its lego levals of dificulty IF YOU HAVE THE CORRECT INSTRUCTIONS)

so after talking round my hat in cuircles over and over again with hints, examples and metofors with exsplanasion you eather cannot or will not understand?

ahhh yes talking me..very clever.

i threw the smoothie board up on the shelf and marked it down to 'waisted 160 quid'...for good reason....

you obviously dont need the money.

methodicaly this becomes aparent...over and over again.

posative feedback, tecnicaly is NOT feedback that is posative! posative feed back in its simplest form is actualy getting 'accurate' feed back.
negative feed back is literally getting no feed back of inacurate feedback.

then we get to misconstrude 'accurate'... because after all the witty intelectual battle is far more important than anything factual....a bit like old women in the battle of the tongue.


after talking round my haat endlessly i find myself cornered into a position where by it seems i,posable to comancate 'accuratly'..

very good...the smoothie board was thrown on the shelf for very good reason.

you got the money.. but you'll get no more.

cleva hu?

how about just adding a 'begginers' set of instructions?

with quite literal exsplansions,

e.g.

this pin coralates to polulu pin ''whatever''
when enabled with this command ''pin hi'' placed into 'this section' with or without * or dash etc.

actual instructions dummified....with the actual answer and where to put it? the rest is purely an intresting to read.


reason why.....the majoruty of users are people with no clue as to how, they see the web site (i say again it is a shedd load better than the other corps companies....apretiated) and the dream is alive! only neh, they waisted every penny and got a reminder akin to a wet fish slapped in their face...(a metafor for feeling ripped off and mortaly reminded).

i actualy liked quadradics at school, i 'just saw them' they were fun...through uni they were everywhere in all sorts of disguises....matrices were boring, easy but boring... plugging a pin in to a number..yeh boring but whats worse is when the other end is not and will not be defined...it p****ses yu right off.

this is what people see... not your hard work.

Quote
munchit1
how about just adding a 'begginers' set of instructions?
.

Hello again Munchit.

As you know, this is a post about MKS, not about the Smoothie documentation, so our conversation is "poluting" this conversation.

To make sure we can still discuss the issues you think the documentation has, I have opened another thread ( in the correct forum : Reprap/Smoothieware ), where I try my best to answer your complaints.

Please moving forward use the new thread for communication : 

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?418,790573

Looking forward to reading from you.

Thanks !

okie doaks

why are people buying 1.3 with 1.4 out there?

Quote
MechaBits
why are people buying 1.3 with 1.4 out there?

Where are you seeing a 1.4 version? I only see 1.3. The seller was on here talking about a new version replacing the DRV drivers with something else, but it looks like they scrapped that plan.