Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Quote
cislom

Quote
fattmann

Quote
Koenig

Quote
fattmann

Quote
Koenig


Could yo perhaps post a photo of your ramps with everything connected?

Not the best picture, took them real quick on the way out of the house to work this morning.
]

Yeah, a bit hard to see, but from what I can see you have not connected power to all four connections on the green block in the lower right corner of the picture.

I guess it does look like that, sorry I'll get better pictures tonight. Both 12v lines are in the green terminal. I took the voltage readings off the screws in the terminals.

If I were you the first thing that I would do is disconnect the LCD. For what its worth, I had all sorts of problems with mine connected. Dunno if you tried this I didn't follow the entire thread.

Worth a shot at this point.

Mike

Quote
fattmann

Quote
cislom

Quote
fattmann

Quote
Koenig

Quote
fattmann

Quote
Koenig


Could yo perhaps post a photo of your ramps with everything connected?

Not the best picture, took them real quick on the way out of the house to work this morning.
]

Yeah, a bit hard to see, but from what I can see you have not connected power to all four connections on the green block in the lower right corner of the picture.

I guess it does look like that, sorry I'll get better pictures tonight. Both 12v lines are in the green terminal. I took the voltage readings off the screws in the terminals.

If I were you the first thing that I would do is disconnect the LCD. For what its worth, I had all sorts of problems with mine connected. Dunno if you tried this I didn't follow the entire thread.

Worth a shot at this point.

Mike

I have not. I couldn't get the printer to function without the LCD attached at all with the old boards. Since I've gotten the new boards I just plugged it in figuring why not. I will try that first thing. Thanks!

Quote
Koenig

Quote
fattmann

Quote
cislom

Quote
fattmann

Quote
Koenig

Quote
fattmann

Quote
Koenig


Could yo perhaps post a photo of your ramps with everything connected?

Not the best picture, took them real quick on the way out of the house to work this morning.
]

Yeah, a bit hard to see, but from what I can see you have not connected power to all four connections on the green block in the lower right corner of the picture.

I guess it does look like that, sorry I'll get better pictures tonight. Both 12v lines are in the green terminal. I took the voltage readings off the screws in the terminals.

If I were you the first thing that I would do is disconnect the LCD. For what its worth, I had all sorts of problems with mine connected. Dunno if you tried this I didn't follow the entire thread.

Worth a shot at this point.

Mike

I have not. I couldn't get the printer to function without the LCD attached at all with the old boards. Since I've gotten the new boards I just plugged it in figuring why not. I will try that first thing. Thanks!

Just took a closer look at the pictures you posted earlier and from what I can see you have put the endstop connectors on the wrong pins.

If you look where you are supposed to connect them you have the axis-letters spelled out to the right of the pins, the way your photos are aligned.

EDIT: Scratch that. Not really awake today...

The only thing left that I can think of and I couldn't find if anyone had asked earlier: Have you tried with other drivers?
They tend to break real easy if you connect/disconnect the motors with power on.

Quote
thevisad


Try to perform this test to verify that the windings are ok on your motors. Besides the crappy fuses/low voltage caps on them, the ramps 1.4 is a pretty solid little board and if both of them are doing it, I suspect other issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1U9pf7S_ov4

Quote
llamatrails


Don't know if you have ever tried the RAMPS test code, but it would get you down to the bare bones to verify your boards, wiring, and hardware.
RAMPS wiki and test code
The test code loads directly onto the Arduino so you bypass Marlin and Pronterface, etc. When I used it, I didn't have the belts on the steppers.
Also, see this Youtube RAMPS test.

Rick

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Quote
DGreen

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Use the two pin connector that you cut off the hot-end fan. It'll fit.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
DGreen

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Use the two pin connector that you cut off the hot-end fan. It'll fit.

Thanks for the reply. I think I threw that piece out. Anyone know where I can buy the correct one so I can replace it? Or what is the proper name of this connector so I can
search for this myself.

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
DGreen

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Use the two pin connector that you cut off the hot-end fan. It'll fit.

Thanks for the reply. I think I threw that piece out. Anyone know where I can buy the correct one so I can replace it? Or what is the proper name of this connector so I can
search for this myself.

go to a local computer store and ask for a 2 pin molex wire to board connector, radio shack might carry them as well in the project section.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
DGreen

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Use the two pin connector that you cut off the hot-end fan. It'll fit.

Thanks for the reply. I think I threw that piece out. Anyone know where I can buy the correct one so I can replace it? Or what is the proper name of this connector so I can
search for this myself.

go to a local computer store and ask for a 2 pin molex wire to board connector, radio shack might carry them as well in the project section.

Thank you.

Quote
fattmann

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
DGreen

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Use the two pin connector that you cut off the hot-end fan. It'll fit.

Thanks for the reply. I think I threw that piece out. Anyone know where I can buy the correct one so I can replace it? Or what is the proper name of this connector so I can
search for this myself.

go to a local computer store and ask for a 2 pin molex wire to board connector, radio shack might carry them as well in the project section.

Thank you.

If all else fails you can hit up a Best Buy or the like ad buy the cheapest internal computer fan you can find and cut the end off there. I know around me there are no stores that would sell just molex connectors.

Quote
thevisad


Thats a 10$ purchase for a 1 cent part. Send me enough to cover postage and I can crimp one for you.

Quote
fattmann

Quote
thevisad


Thats a 10$ purchase for a 1 cent part. Send me enough to cover postage and I can crimp one for you.

Yes, but sometimes convenience supersedes cost.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
DGreen

Quote
davidf01
So I think I'm missing a connector. The directions say "For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector. Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit." I dont have a connector to do that with.

Did anyone else have this issue and what did you do about it if you didn't call Folger?

Use the two pin connector that you cut off the hot-end fan. It'll fit.

Thanks for the reply. I think I threw that piece out. Anyone know where I can buy the correct one so I can replace it? Or what is the proper name of this connector so I can
search for this myself.

Quote
fattmann
I just threw the old RAMPS on the new Arduino- does the same thing with the RAMPS test code.

Uploads just fine, lights flash on and off as they did in the guys video, but i get no signal from the motor ports. This is with the external power connected.

0J3360.600.png

Quote
llamatrails

Quote
fattmann
I just threw the old RAMPS on the new Arduino- does the same thing with the RAMPS test code.

Uploads just fine, lights flash on and off as they did in the guys video, but i get no signal from the motor ports. This is with the external power connected.

2 RAMPS, 2 Arduinos - the common denominator seems to be the A4988 drivers.


Do you have a breadboard for building circuit boards? If not, see if you can wire the A4988 directly to the Arduino to test each one. The test code has the 3 Arduino pins that need to be connected to the A4988, step-dir-enable. Don't worry about the capacitor on the VMOT-GND pins. Put a jumper on the RESET-SLEEP pins. This way, you are bypassing the RAMPS, just the Arduino and the A4988 in the picture.

BTW, have you tested the voltage on the RAMPS/A4988 to see that the 12v is getting to the VMOT pin? Without the 12v power supply, the 5v is used for the voltage sense setting pot but 12v has to go through the RAMPS yellow fuses to the VMOT pins. The 5v can come from either the 12v or the USB connection to the computer.

Rick

Quote
fattmann

This is fantastic, this is what I've been looking for to test the A4988. Thanks! I have seen that diagram but wasn't sure where to go with the testing. I don't have a breadboard, but I will see what i can do with jumpers and wire. I will give that a shot later tonight. I have a feeling the A4988 boards are fried, just think it's odd that all four of them would go belly up, but that's my kind of luck.

If testing for 12v on the VMOT pin is the procedure that thevisad outlined on Thread Page 52 in the green circle, then yes. I have 12v at that pin on the corner.

Quote
llamatrails

If you have any hobby stores locally that sell radio controlled stuff, the connectors are called servo connectors. The hobby store may not have the bare connector and pins, but they will have servo extension cables for a couple of bucks. Cut the extension in half and splice the proper end to the thermistor wires.

Rick

Quote
thevisad

Quote
fattmann

This is fantastic, this is what I've been looking for to test the A4988. Thanks! I have seen that diagram but wasn't sure where to go with the testing. I don't have a breadboard, but I will see what i can do with jumpers and wire. I will give that a shot later tonight. I have a feeling the A4988 boards are fried, just think it's odd that all four of them would go belly up, but that's my kind of luck.

If testing for 12v on the VMOT pin is the procedure that thevisad outlined on Thread Page 52 in the green circle, then yes. I have 12v at that pin on the corner.

You would need an oscilliscope to do true testing for the stepping, which you can buy a small hobby one (diy) for about 32$. You can get one from ebay cheaper, but these are knockoffs and the company is trying to eliminate them. If you are good at soldering then it's a fun task and takes 3-4 hours to build. You can get one here and they even have a link to my document on the page showing how to upgrade the device. The stepper drivers are damaged really easily if you put them in backwards or connect/disconnect the motors while powered.

Quote
llamatrails


Ditto on how easy it is to blow them by connecting or disconnecting them with power on, I make sure both 5v and motor voltage are off.

No need for the scope if all you want to do is see if the steppers spin. They will full step without jumpers.

Rick

Quote
fattmann

Quote
llamatrails


Ditto on how easy it is to blow them by connecting or disconnecting them with power on, I make sure both 5v and motor voltage are off.

No need for the scope if all you want to do is see if the steppers spin. They will full step without jumpers.

Rick

That's what I'm hearing... What is it that actually gets fried on them? If they are fried would they still be pumping out the correct voltages? That's one of the things that is throwing me off.

Quote
thevisad

Quote
fattmann

Quote
llamatrails


Ditto on how easy it is to blow them by connecting or disconnecting them with power on, I make sure both 5v and motor voltage are off.

No need for the scope if all you want to do is see if the steppers spin. They will full step without jumpers.

Rick

That's what I'm hearing... What is it that actually gets fried on them? If they are fried would they still be pumping out the correct voltages? That's one of the things that is throwing me off.

The 4988 chip itself dies on the board, the voltages that you are checking is just a verification that the driver itself is getting the proper voltages. You would need to step it to have it send the voltage through the stepper driver to the motor to see the signal. You would get a voltage that is applied, the micro steps are where you would need the scope to identify if things are working 100%.

Quote
cman8
Seems like theres something wrong there. The belts shouldnt touch the corner brackets

Quote
davidf01

Quote
cman8
Seems like theres something wrong there. The belts shouldnt touch the corner brackets

Thats what I thought. I checked the instructions and it all seems correct. I'm wondering if there is something I don't know about. It seems like the pulley in the upper frame is to far towards the outside
or the slider is not thick enough. Not sure what the issue is.