Are they 18 tooth pulleys? If so they are 88.88 steps/mm. 16 and 20 give round numbers. Sounds to me like the config isn't saving correctly...check to see if the file is on there 2 times (like 1 .txt and 1 "any type") Notepad++ likes to save funny sometimes...you have to save as "any/all types".by C. Cecil - Controllers
Dark Alchemist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The part I am making I can't figure out how to > make it without it caving in on itself. I am in > the modeling stage right now as I am trying to > learn a bit more (push myself) in C4D and will > take a stab at Freecad but I am worried about the > hollow nature. > > I wonder if all things hoby C. Cecil - General
When I went to less parts I also raised my temp by 7c. It was not really a traditional delamination...more like a cracking at one spot in the print...I think, like you said, it was just cooling too much before the nozzle was coming back due to the multiples and the slowdown I put in on short layers...also it was a cheap plastic.by C. Cecil - General
Not sure why you would need a minimum feedrate but I do know in certain instances taking too long to do a layer causes delamination when using ABS. There are certain parts that work great with 2 on a plate but if I use 4 of them they typically delaminate (MendelMax Lower vertex for example). I am sure a heated build chamber would help with this. I have started using 115% layer height for the fby C. Cecil - General
From the Marlin wiki: M204 - Set default acceleration: S normal moves T filament only moves (M204 S3000 T7000) im mm/sec^2 also sets minimum segment time in ms (B20000) to prevent buffer underruns and M20 minimum feedrateby C. Cecil - General
You are not just dealing with the weight of the gear and bolt. You are also dealing with the filament tension on the idler (which many have too high, including myself at times), the suction of pulling the filament out fast, and the reversal/restart pressure (as in the force it takes to reprime the nozzle) which is where it usually skips if it is going to. I have seen this many times in IRC wherby C. Cecil - General
The default accel in yours seems to be set to 300...default is 3000. I use 1500 as a starting point...2000 is probably good also. I leave the max acceleration where they are. Then on my machines I set the default xyjerk to 10. I personally prefer slower prints to skipped steps or other issues related to accel ("ringing" around holes in the prints for example). I play with my accels durinby C. Cecil - General
What tip size are you using. I find I have to use less/more retract depending on size. I am willing to bet a good starting point for the 1.75 tube is going to be .75mm retract @ 25mm/s (assuming a .35 nozzle). Although, I am basing this on wade's extruder experience...some have found different settings for the direct drives. Another thing to check is make sure your retract/restart distance iby C. Cecil - General
I find that if I use 1500 acceleration and 10 for xy jerk in Marlin my prints are about right on the Pronterface estimate for time. When I was running higher accel I was beating the estimate by quite a bit.by C. Cecil - General
Also, try to do 15% honeycomb infill with a mill. There are clear advantages to our process but there is a place for mills as well. 3d Printers are just another tool for the arsenal...just like lathes, laser cutters, mills etc...they all have their specific job to do.by C. Cecil - General
Many recommend borosilicate. I have always used just normal window glass, according to my supplier everything they have is "float glass" which is very flat. I used the same sheets for over 6 months with no issue. Then I got a bit larger glass and countersunk my bed screws (aluminum resistor bed) and I have had a couple sheets crack right at the screws. I think either I did not deburr the hoby C. Cecil - General
I agree with Nophead here...in my experience I have had ABS bits coming out in the PLA for quite a while after switching. I usually try to first get all that I can out by cooling the hotend and reheating to just where the ABS is soft enough to pull out, then I put the PLA in and run it for a couple hundred mm. Then finally I do a few calibration parts to get the ABS out as well as to get my temby C. Cecil - General
Upgrade to the Marlin firmware and use pronterface instead of repsnapper. I am not sure what thermistor they are shipping with since my hotend never even made a print...I upgraded to the Makergear hotend right away. If you have the gen6 board be sure to do the capacitor mod that is listed in the gen6 wiki.by C. Cecil - General
On a side note...the belt splitter jig parts work well on the gen6 electronics as a board mount. That is what I am using mine for now.by C. Cecil - General
I will have some soon. I just put in my order so I will have some of the Rattm motors that many people recommend.by C. Cecil - Idaho RUG
It looks like the first error is sanguino not properly installed and the second error is wrong board selected in configuration.h. -Follow the install instructions here: -Make sure Gen6 is the selected board in configuration.h If you do that it should compile and install. If you get the stk500 error reset the board and try again.by C. Cecil - General
Send a pic of your wiring at the heated bed (I recommend starting a Flickr or similar account...pictures tell everything in this project). It could be a bad solder joint...or it might be attached wrong somehow. If that is not the problem I suggest looking over the PCB very closely with magnification and see if there is an issue in one of the traces (although, for something this big you probablyby C. Cecil - General Mendel Topics
When I first got my printer running I had my X carriage crack at the belt tensioner (original sells x carriage). So I used some 2 part epoxy to as a temp repair until I could print a new one...I ended up using it for around 6 months. It was actually more solid than the original and was only replaced when I moved up to the open x carriage.by C. Cecil - General
Not only have different ABS batches had different melt temps for me but also different colors. Every color seems to want a different setting. I range between 200 and 225C for all my ABS.by C. Cecil - General
Marlin has the Canon trigger pulses coded in (M240?, something like that). You just need to add a IR LED to one of the RAMPS pins and it will send the necessary IR pulses to trigger as if you were using the Canon remote. Then all you have to do is add the command to the gcode at every Z change (or whenever you want).by C. Cecil - General
I just use plain 3mm window glass on my printer. I have been using the same glass for 6 months with no cracking but I also have a 5mm aluminum resistor bed that heats even and fairly slow. I have put it up to 135C. When I use ABS juice I do not paint it on until the bed reaches 100C then I usually print between 110 and 130C depending on the plastic.by C. Cecil - General
If you used smaller zip ties that fit in the heatsink grooves and cut the ends it might look like it was supposed to be that way.by C. Cecil - General
If you have a multimeter test Pin1 of Q2 while toggling the fan on/off (should switch between 0 and 5v) then do the same for the D9 output (should switch between 0 and 12v). Check for shorts on Q2, R2 and the pin header connector next to LED1.by C. Cecil - General
Looks like Z binding or wobble to me. I get banding like that on my sells mendel when the leadscrews need lubing. Once I add some lube it is gone. Probably skipping steps on the Z stepper due to binding which causes the bulges because the layer does not go up enough which makes the layer overfill. Check your Z axis for binding/calibration...then lube it with something (I have been using litby C. Cecil - General
Marlin/Ramps 1.4/Slic3r...fan works fine...M107 works fine and the fan speed is variable. Not sure which version you are using but mine works. I literally just had to plug the fan into the output and enable cooling in slic3r, that was all.by C. Cecil - General
I use this. It is based on Arcol's blog post . I will be writing up a description of the mods I have made to it as soon as possible. I have to finish a bit of code to get the fan controller/timers working but as a controller it has worked fine for 6 months.by C. Cecil - General
My gen6 machine will skip steps due to power surges. Also bright light does strange things (optos). It used to do the shutdown mid print thing but it typically gave an error...something like "linenr not lastline +1" I think. I have had the issue less since I repositioned my USB, power, stepper and endstops. It seems noise was the primary cause of this issue. That printer is about 95% solidby C. Cecil - General
I have had that error on my Gen6 board. I think it is caused by noise because I no longer have it since I have moved my wires. Try to keep stepper wires away from endstops/power/USB wires. Do a twisted pair on your stepper wires. My printer resets, rehomes and moves back to center when this happens...which obviously causes collisions with what was already printed on the bed. The other reasonby C. Cecil - General
Use Marlin. There is a version specifically for Gen6. I tried Sprinter months ago and it did not work proper for me either...not sure if things changed or not. When I asked Kliment about it he advised me to talk with someone (can't remember the name) who had got it to work proper on the gen6 but I just gave up and went Marlin. Try Marlin and if your problem is solved you know it is firmware..by C. Cecil - General
Seems it has been tried. Pretty sure I have seen it a few places I use 9 10ohm aluminum resistors in parallel (new printer uses 10 but that puts it over the current RAMPS 1.4 can handle so I use a relay). It has no problem hitting 135c for abs. That is with a 5mm aluminum bed and 3mm of glass also. It is a direct copy of Arcol's bed. I have pics of it on my flickr.by C. Cecil - General