I got an old Folger Tech Prusia i3 back in 2015. Its an old arduino mega with merlin firmware. The thing is still running strong, but its time to give it some updates. The problem is that I haven't kept up with the DIY side and am not sure where to start and what I can do. Id like to add auto bed leveling and perhaps filament empty detection. What i dont know is what parts or what to look fby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you for the suggestion. I managed to get it figured out. Apparently the temperature probe on the print head had separated. Just enough that it would work sometimes from movement. When the probe would break connection it would fault and suspend all movement. I replaced the probe with a spare I had. Back to printing. Thank you for the help!by eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a folgertech prusia i3. I was leveling the bed today then the printer just quit responding. I am using repitier host to control it. I found that the printer will home, but wont do anything else. I cant move any axis or heat any elements. visually everything looks fine. There was no magic smoke. The power supply tests good with my meter. Have any of you encountered this problem? any suggby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDust Melzi's are a PITA You have to add the sanguino. support to the arduino IDE, as it doesn't come with it... But before you go that that extreme Just adjust the max fead rate of Z in eeprom ie send this to the printer M203 Z2 M500 The first line sets the Z max feed rate to 2 the second saves this to eeprom. (as long as it replied ok) If you still want to compile the firmware seeby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Its been a long while since my last post on this. I don't live near my friend so can work on getting this printer running too fast. We still havent got this printer running. I also have not made adjustments to the firmware too. Attached is a video showing what the printers z axis does and some close ups of the board. I haven't made any firmware changes because i have not had any luck finding inby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you. Ill see if I can get it working off one of those links.by eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Ive been helping my buddy get his 3d printer configured. He purchased a Tronxy P802 MHS. It appears the firmware was not configured correctly and the SD card that came with the printer did not have a copy of the firmware on it. Does anyone have a copy of the the Melzi V2 firmware they would be willing to share or could link me to place to download it? I have a Folger Tech Prusia i3 running an Arby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteobewan This sounds like the usual max z feedrate being set too high in the configuration.h in marlin default firmware ie #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 } try reduceing the 5 to a 2 and recompiling firmware Ill give that a shot this weekend when I see him. Other than that, I am still concerned that I calculated the v-ref wrong. Can anyone verify it?by eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
A friend of mine decided to dive into 3d printing and bought a Tronxy P802 m from GearBest. He got the thing together but we could not get the Z axis to move as it should. The motors vibrate and the motor shaft visibly sort of "hammers" back and forth. When I assembled my Folger tech I had a similar issue due to driver adjustment needed. We tries adjusting the Melzi but had no luck. Here is whaby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you ever get this running? In the past when I have seen access denied to a serial port its been one of two reasons, that port is in use to something else or your have been blocked from accessing it administratively. So to that, Are you the system administrator with admin rights? If not ask your administrator to open access. Make sure nothing else is using that port. You might try reassignby eatumup - General
Wow, I got a lot from the discussion from Robert_Clif and dc42! Thank you for having that conversation. The scope of this project is just making the motors spin slowly without overloading something. QuoteRoberts_Clif When you run more than one stepper off one driver it is risky business. This messes up microstepping and anti-resonance circuits. Steppers are essentially generators which means thby eatumup - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif They will wire together like this. Ahh I see now! Sorry to have you draw it out further. I was just having trouble wrapping my head around it. I wasn't going to even worry about the opposite direction bit,. but you took care of that. Thank you very much for taking the time to spell that out for me.by eatumup - General
Thank you all for the input. This is why I came to ask. For whatever reason i love messing with this stuff but struggle with the math in design. Running tests with a single motor i have been able to slow them down enough to do what I need. I had a really hard time finding the "right" motor. these are on the edge of being able to fit where I need them. other motors that had better steps were ethby eatumup - General
I have some extra A4988 drivers for a project im doing. I am using these stepper motors to spin model airplane props real slow. Its a display piece so they wont be pulling any weight or trying to make it fly or anything. Just creating motion. The steppers came with no datasheet. Across the coil i show 10ohm resistance. I am not worried if they turn in sync or not. I was thinking that I wouldby eatumup - General
thank you very much for your input on this. This forum has always been a great help to me. I think i might have enough information now to feel comfortable enough to spend the money on some trials. Thanks a bunch everyoneby eatumup - Mechanics
Interesting you suggest old DVD drives. I had no idea those were steppers. Since i will not really be worrying about position in relation to the steps, Could I use a single stepper driver to run 4 motors wired in parallel? I dont know if i just need to worry about current or if there might be complication in doing this from two way communication. Any preferred control suggestions for turninby eatumup - Mechanics
Im starting a new project and im completely unsure of how to accomplish it. I am working on a model b17. I want to direct drive the props at a really slow rotation. like maybe sub 20rpm. Im working in really tight spaces. the cavity has roughly 20mm in length and room for about 10-15mm for the body diameter. So far I have been looking at PWM drivers or Gear drive motors. Ive been told that Pby eatumup - Mechanics
Quotecozmicray Perhaps a old fishing reel Brilliant! Best thing is i have a bunch of old fishing reels too! I think the length might be almost perfect. Thank you very much for that suggestion.by eatumup - Mechanics
I want to make an auto winder to spool wire. The problem is that I have no idea where to get the part I need. My garden hose box has a special shaft that automatically sends the nut (the hose runs though an eye on the hose) back and forth as you turn the crank. this makes sure the hose winds evenly across the reel. This YouTube video has a demo of the part im referring to. Do any of you know oby eatumup - Mechanics
This sounds like and issue my printer suffers from. If its like mine, My thermistor is messed up. If this occurs I can look at Repitier and see that my temp has run away (maxed out) or is at zero. If I wiggle my thermistor wire at the hot end I can watch and see my temp reading return to normal. If this is the case you just need to replace that part.by eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, A few months ago I got myself a FolgerTech 2020 i3. So far the machine has been really good but I want to make some changes. As a starter machine I have started to find that I need a little more umph out of it. Being so new to the world I need some advice. Im sure this has been covered before on other posts but I had trouble finding the information I was looking for via search. I want toby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDownunder35m If the scrw comes loose on a thread try thread locker or a locking nut instead. Otherwise, instead of epoxy use hot glue sticks - if you have to you can remove the stuff again, epoxy will be next to impossible to remove. Hot glue is a better suggestion. if that nut ever gets messed up i would have to replace the entire printed mount to fix it.by eatumup - Printing
QuoteAlexY Your layer alignment looks good, though the wavy pattern shouldn't be there normally. The layer lines you see are typical of larger layer heights and nothing to worry about. If you want a smoother finish, use 0.2mm, 0.1, or even lower layer heights, but the prints will take longer to complete. Thank you very much for those examples. Now I feel like I can move on and focus on things likby eatumup - Printing
Thank you all very much. Exactly what I was looking for.by eatumup - Slic3r
I am trying to get my new Prusa i3 calibrated right. I am getting nice square prints from my test cubes. The question I have is about the sides. I forgot my camera so I only have an older pic to show. this one has other issues but the layer lines on the sides are the same as what I'm getting now. . Should I be able to visibly see each layer in the sides? Just not sure how smooth the sides shouldby eatumup - Printing
Sorry for such a simple question. I can't figure out how to adjust the outer wall thickness on my prints. For example I am trying to print a simple cylinder to get my outer walls calibrated right. I want to set slic3r to make the walls a little thicker before starting the infill on my print. Can someone help point me in the right direction on how to do this?by eatumup - Slic3r
Oh I forgot to mention i have been using Slic3r mostly. I do have cura but i find myself more comfortable with slic3r. Im still deciding which one I prefer.by eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
I dont think there is any backlash. The belts appear pretty tight to me. Im using a spring clip as the bet tension the belts. Its tight enough that its very difficult to remove them. I need to do more research on how to measure for a properly tense belt. Thus far all my prints seem to be great minus peaks. When I did my extrusion calibration i simply marked the filament and noted the measurementby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you for all your help. Multiple prints just resulted in multiple prints being dragged around by the nozzle. What I am finding is that when I get to the final few layers I have to turn the flow rate down. It seems that 100% flow rate makes too big of a blob at the top. This ends up burring the nozzle while printing. I have calibrated the feed and its right on. If i turn down the flow for theby eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants
I tried turning down the flow rate to about 50%. Still had the same problem. The last few layers it looks like it stuck the extruder down into the tip of the print. Ill try a side by side and see what I get. Thank you for the tips.by eatumup - Prusa i3 and variants