Been working a lot lately and haven't had too much time to play. I've been trying to slowly increase my retraction speed and it has been helping. I find I get fewer pimples when I use slic3r 0.7.2b rather than the newer versions, but I wish I could take advantage of some of the newer features. I still have not found a good calibration piece for this. I'll just start making parts and experimentby tosjduenfs - General
Thanks guys I'll give those suggestions a shot.by tosjduenfs - Slic3r
I got 12mm O1 precision drill rod from mcmaster and cut it with a hack saw. Although the straightness tolerance is unrated it will come exceptionally straight. You can also go with A2 drill rod which I believe is rated for 0.005" over 1ft for straightness but is more expensive. Keep in mind these are not stainless and have the potential to rust. As long as you clean them with wd40 before instby tosjduenfs - General New Machines Topics
I don't think I'll really be developing the printer much further, other than some small modifications. I wasn't sure if thingiverse was the appropriate place to put the printer but I think it will do. Thanks.by tosjduenfs - General New Machines Topics
My name is Mike Hamende (pronounced HAM-END) and this is my printer inspired by the Mendel. If you put them together you get the HaMendel. My first printer was a prusa mendel however, there were several drawbacks that drove me to design my own printer. First of all I was limited to a 70mm Z height due to interference of my extruder and the top of the frame, interference also prevented me fromby tosjduenfs - General New Machines Topics
It took me one day to build my prusa, probably about 6 or 7 hours start to finish. I was printing the same day.by tosjduenfs - General
I'll try reducing temp and then reducing and quickening my retraction.by tosjduenfs - General
All of the recent versions of slicer to not listen to my request for number of solid top and bottom layers and number of perimeters. I want 3 solid layers top and bottom and 3 perimeters but it always does 2 for all. What's the deal? For now I'm sticking with 0.7.2bby tosjduenfs - Slic3r
I'm currently using 0.7.2b since the current version ignores my solidfill layer number and perimeter number parameters. This version does not have that option. Also I've found the blobbing to be worse in the newest version. Also, wouldn't that just cause them all to be on the same line? I'd still have the bumps wouldn't I?by tosjduenfs - General
Sometimes I get more sometimes I get less but I always end up with these bumps on the surface of my prints at the end of perimeters. If not for these bumps my prints would turn out great. I'm printing on a prusa mendel, with J-Head MK IV-B hotend, and ultimachine PLA. I'm printing perimeters at 50mm/s, 1.5mm retraction @ 20mm/s. Any ideas?by tosjduenfs - General
Well it looks like I've found a "solution". I dissolved a 5mm length of 3mm PLA filament in 10ml of pure acetone, I then added 1 drop of superglue. I spread the solution on the sanded glass and now everything is sticking again. I'm still not sure why it wont stick to the plain glass though.by tosjduenfs - General
I'm using the same bed temperature as before. The temperature in the house is the same as the summer as well.by tosjduenfs - General
I've been printing PLA to sanded glass for a while now with no problems getting it to stick. Now all of the sudden it doesn't stick anymore. I've been cleaning the glass the same exact way I've always done. I've got several colors of Ultimachine PLA and none of those stick better than the others. This has become very frustrating. The only change I can think of is the weather. It is winter inby tosjduenfs - General
Wired1 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Try also changing to a prime number toothed > pulley, this might help move the imperfections, if > any, to random positions instead of being in line. This only works with gears or closed loop belts that complete full rotations, not the open ended belts used on our printers. Every tooth on the belt will always engaby tosjduenfs - General Mendel Topics
Here was my very first print. I think it turned out very well considering. This is without any post processing. No strings but a few little blobs. Just a calibration square. All axes are within .2mm on a 40mm length. I'll calibrate tomorrow.by tosjduenfs - Look what I made!
This past week or so I've been building a Prusa Mendel. My main goal was to make it a clean looking build so that I can keep it in my office without having a rats nest of wires all over a strange looking machine. My last project was designing and building a CNC router so I used that to make an enclosure for my Ramps board and power supply. On the front of the enclosure is an Ulticontroller, tby tosjduenfs - Look what I made!
My Prusa is so close to being finished. The place I bought the frame kit from forgot to include my belts and pulleys so I am waiting for them. I've got marlin loaded onto my ramps 1.4 board. Everything is working as it should. I'm already discovering some of the downfalls of the Prusa Mendel design, but since the frame is so simple and easy to build it is hard to fault the design. My next prby tosjduenfs - General Mendel Topics
If you are asking if you can machine UHMW with a CNC mill the answer is NO. Not unless you want to be incredibly frustrated. When cutting plastics it is best to use single fluted end mills but even with those it doesn't help. The UHMW just won't chip off so you end up with the dirtiest cut you've ever seen. The best plastics I've machined with my CNC router are HDPE, Acetal (delrin), and casby tosjduenfs - General New Machines Topics
You should also re-tune your hot end PID settings if you are running a fan on it since you are significantly changing it's typically operating environment. If you run marlin, do the autopid tune again with the fan running.by tosjduenfs - General
Thurdy, You can try taking the rods out and rolling them on a flat surface to see if there is an issue with their straightness. Or try rotating the rods 90 degrees in their clamps. Are you using O1, A2 or hardened steel rods specifically made for linear motion? In any case, run your fingers over them to ensure there are no obvious deviations or burrs on the rod. Also you could try swappingby tosjduenfs - General Mendel Topics
Just a tip. Lubricating your smooth rods does not get much grease into the bearing itself. You need to lubricate the bearings. Take them off and put the lithium grease inside the bearing. Make sure you get some grease into all 4 races for every bearing.by tosjduenfs - General Mendel Topics
As a note I think it would be a good idea to retune your PID settings for your hot end if you are using a fan since it is greatly changing it's normal operating environment. If you use marlin just do your autopid tuning again with the fan running.by tosjduenfs - New Zealand RepRap User Group
My Makerfarm linear prusa kit printed parts weighed 382grams. 60 grams for the Gregs extruder parts.by tosjduenfs - General Mendel Topics
I'm building a Linear Prusa Mendel. My last project was designing and building a CNC router table. I learned that if I don't want a rat's nest of wires then you need zip ties, heat shrink, braided mesh for long wires and a central point for them to go. While waiting for my printed parts to arrive I decided to put my router table to work and make my "central point". Inside is a 12v 30amp powby tosjduenfs - General Mendel Topics