Thanks for gathering all of that! I count 230.2 meters. According to this there is about 330 meters on a 1.75mm spool of PLA. I'm your numbers are input lengths of 1.75mm. So about 70% of a roll.by ejbantz - Smart_Rap
I can't take credit for the design of my printer, but every part has been redesigned in tinkercad to be more of my liking. What is proper name to call it? Do I tell people it's a smartrap, or should I be calling it something different to avoid confusion with the real deal?by ejbantz - Smart_Rap
I like the 3 smooth rods for Z. Seems that would make it much more stable than the two for the smartrap. Do you have any feel for how much plastic you use to make 1 set of parts... realizing it's going to vary person to person on how much infill etc they use.by ejbantz - Smart_Rap
Here is how the re-build is going using the parts from tinkercad. Using 3/4 inch binder clips to hold the bed in place. Have an issue with the main z carriage part warping out and causing binding. I've the zip ties pulling the top back in so it slides up and down smoothly. The X axis limit switch isn't a good place to get triggers, I need to move that closer to the front. Zip tie holder for theby ejbantz - Smart_Rap
Remade all of the smartrap parts in tinkercad. Unfortunately, they are not really backwards compatible because I didn't put any effort into making the rod spacing exactly the same. Not a complete list of parts... but requires: 8mm or 5/16 inch rods for the Z. 6mm or 15/64 inch rods for the X and Y. No linear bearings (uses printed bushings). 6mm bowden compression fittings. Nema 17 motors, 39mby ejbantz - Smart_Rap
Ordered one of these: They'll be a little less expensive than the xbox 360 slim power supplies for the group build. Here are the specs: Dell Power Supply, Model F180FU-00 Input: 100-240V, 3.2A Output: 12V, 15A Here is the guide I'll use when modding it:by ejbantz - Smart_Rap
Hot end: Motors: Using Arduino Mega and Ramps 1.4. So the hot end would be 3.3 amps. 4 motors would be 4.8 amps. Total 8.1. The controller board will draw some, but can't imagine a lot. Is an xbox slim power supply good enough: It says it does 10.8 amps. Do I need a larger buffer? I'm using a full xbox 360 power supply right now and it gives 16.5 amps, but I wonder if that's over kby ejbantz - Smart_Rap
What sort of wall thickness do your aluminum tubes have? Here are some from the metal supplier I'm using (cost $12.29 per 36", 0.1332 lbs weight) Here is 15/64" drill rod I'm thinking about switching to (cost $5.39 per 36", 0.4392 lbs weight): So I wonder, if the drill rod is cheaper, is there an advantage to using aluminum tubes... maybe for less weight? Do your tubes bend at all whenby ejbantz - Smart_Rap
I'm very new to smartrap. I've built a lot of mendel90ish machines and really like the smartrap because there are less printed parts and less screws and other hardware bringing the assemble time way down. Here is my first attempt at a smartrap printer: I used 5/16 aluminum tubes for the rods, which I'm find I can get away with for my own needs, but isn't going to be well accepting during a gby ejbantz - Smart_Rap
Ramps 1.4 with Arduino Mega.by ejbantz - Smart_Rap
Here are some handy gcode to debug why you can't move: M114: Get Current Position M119: Get Endstop Statusby ejbantz - Reprappers
I'm confused. 1. Which firmware are you using? 2. If you can home x, y, and z that sounds good to me. Is this a typo?by ejbantz - Reprappers
Fixing the switch to the smooth rod I think would result in tiny nudging of the switch higher and higher throwing off the starting point of prints over time.by ejbantz - Mendel90
Also, comparing a fixed max switch to a variable min switch, I did enjoy the fixed max much more. It was much more reliable. Instead of fine tuning with a set screw, I tuned using z offsets in slic3r. I'm using Cura now though and I don't see a z offset option and have to fine tune by uploading new marlin config.by ejbantz - Mendel90
Yeah, homing to the z max can take a while. At first I moved my z limit switch to the min and glued a stick to the x-end-motor to trip it. I put a screw through the stick that was adjustable. Later I made a printed part for it. You would update marlin to have #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 instead of #define Z_HOME_DIR 1 Otherwise, to avoid long z home max times, you can type g92 z1000 andby ejbantz - Mendel90
If you have Sanguinololu 1.3a board, I think you need to change line 76 from #define MOTHERBOARD 7 to #define MOTHERBOARD 62 I haven't used Repetier. You could try using PrintRun to test out the basic connection to the printer and be able to move motors left and right to confirm it is working. Then switch back to Repetier after you know marlin is setup right. or specifically for windoby ejbantz - Reprappers
The photos to me kinda looks like it's extruding too much plastic.... and/or there is a lot of wobble of the head as it goes up the z. I'm also wondering what others thing.... could the skipping in steps be caused by the electronics overheating... and that is why it was happening on longer prints? Turning down the current would help avoid the heat issue, but a fan on the electronics might tooby ejbantz - Printing
I've ordered from them many times. It usually takes a couple days to get the order placed and payment finalized, but if you stay up late at night you can get the emails back and forth all in one shot. They usually ship by FedEx and it arrives in a few days. Shipping of course depends on the weight, but is like 30USD to the states for a small package of goodies. Not sure about Canada. Theby ejbantz - General
If you're already order from robotdigg, they have stepper drivers, motors, arduino and ramps.by ejbantz - General
Looks pretty cool. I see from the video it is moving. What type of problem are you having? Can you post your marlin configuration.h file?by ejbantz - Reprappers
There are settings to invert the X and Y axis in the Marlin firmware. #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to falseby ejbantz - Reprappers
Looking at... GND is on the far side from the pot. You should be able to see GND labled on the ramps (i'm guessing you have a ramps board). So the pot out be on the left side, opposite of how the A4998 mounts.by ejbantz - Reprappers
I usually just turn up the bottom pot until the motors start moving nicely.by ejbantz - Reprappers
270 degree.... easy. Thanks I built sort of a mendel90ish style printer using OSB wood for the frame. I'll mount it on the top of the arch, lots of room there.by ejbantz - General
I suspect a bad stepper driver board. Or it's turned way down. If you take the belt off the X, does it move at all? Does it the stepper board make a noise? Does the motor make a noise?by ejbantz - Reprappers
So should the output of the extruder pointing straight up in the air and then arch 180 back down to the x-carriage?by ejbantz - General
Sublime, for the 3mm you recommend... is that the filament diameter... or a retraction length?by ejbantz - General
If the 3 jumpers are not installed under the stepper drivers, it would use full stepping instead of a fraction of a full step and would just appear to move faster. So I don't think that could be the cause. Do you have power connected to bottom pair of power inputs on the ramps? This is 5 amp input that powers the motors, and D9 and D10 outputs. The top power input is for 11 amp and justby ejbantz - Reprappers