Don't know if anyone is still tracking this thread, but working on a CoreXY conversion based on the open source Rat Rig printer Will post pics and files when I have it workingby Firefox3D - General
The steel screws bind in the aluminium, they react with each other, think it's called galvanic corrosion. WD-40 can help, and make sure you hex key/driver is the right size, by that I mean some are more accurately sized than others. I found one multi bit set would slip before it broke the bind in the metal, even with the right one T-bar type (good for applying torque) it still took some seriousby Firefox3D - General
Possibly not enough current? have to run mine about 1.5 ampsby Firefox3D - General
Quotedc42 QuoteFirefox3D I was trying the other head as I thought I had a fault with the original one, turned out just to be a half broken wire near one of the crimps. The resistance of the Cubex heater is 5 ohms which seems to be in the normal range, the Cubepro head is nearer to 10 ohms, is this within tunable range? If you were running a 10 ohm heater at 12V then it would probably not be ableby Firefox3D - General
Quotedc42 QuoteFirefox3D The print head heaters do need 15V to operate properly. I tried a Cubepro head which I am guessing runs at 24V as the higher resistance heater wire meant the Duet would think there was a fault as it couldn't heat it fast enough. Did you run heater tuning? On the Duet, heater tuning not only allows good PID parameters to be calculated, it also calibrates what the firmwareby Firefox3D - General
QuoteDancook Thanks, Firefox3D... I literally beat my head up against the wall trying to figure out how to print without the rounding errors... I ordered one of the stepper/lead screw combos as you mentioned... it'll be here tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get perfect prints tomorrow. Did you get a NEMA 17 version? I didn't see any NEMA 23 versions. You can get custom Nema 23's but they were prettyby Firefox3D - General
Yeah it's an imperial thread, so there will always be rounding errors. I changed the steps per mm to an even 1000 then stretched the model to correct the size for a while, but it could still look crappy. Recently changed the drive to one of the 8mm per turn shaft motors like in the i3's, get perfect z layers now. Having the shaft as part of the motor also reduced the slop/play in the bed significby Firefox3D - General
I think the max printing speed unless you reduce the moving mass considerably is around 40mm/s if you want good quality foolproof prints. Having said that my movement speed is at 100mm/s and it doesn't skip. I was thinking of reducing the moving mass by shaving the aluminium pieces down, not sure if that would make a massive amount of difference. Or convert the drive to a core x-y system whichby Firefox3D - General
Was going to make a whole new Z bed support part as the digital dentist did early on, then thought it might be worth trying a cheapskate method first. Picked up a piece of 15 x 10mm steel off-cut, cut the right length with slightly angled ends to fit inside the rounded aluminium parts then drilled through and bolted it on. It has removed a fair amount of the slop from the bed, flexes a tiny amouby Firefox3D - General
I have seen odd things happen in S3D with a couple of STL's and the cure seemed to be moving the part a fraction of a mm in the Z axis, it's as if the layer thickness slicing was hitting a certain point in the STL and getting confused. Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Think I have found the answer to your problem, in S3D go to Tools, Firmware configuration, then the FFF tab. In the Fan speed control section you probably have M106 S$ in Set fan power, think you need to make it either M106 P0 S$ or M106 P1 S$ seems to be that P0 is generally the hot end fan and P1 cooling fan, but depends on hardware config on the board. If it's not a PWM controlled fan the S$by Firefox3D - General
Quoteadvancedrescue I've printed a lot with it and it prints great, but need to figure out why the layer fans don't come on. Has something to do with Simplify3d. I can type in M106 P0 in the duet web interface and they come on as they should, just can't get them to respond from S3D. Also got to figure out the mirrored print. Have you checked what's in the gcode, you should be able to see whatby Firefox3D - General
Was wondering if anyone knows, the normal nozzle size seems to be 0.5mm was there a smaller one available? Can't find anything on the 3Dsystems website so probably notby Firefox3D - General
Quotedc42 QuoteFirefox3D Had fun earlier, changed the hot-end fan onto the PWM Duet fan connection as I discovered even with the sealed chamber at nearly 60 degrees it only needs to run about 50% which keeps the draught on the ABS as low as possible. Went to change filament and forgot to switch on the fan, and guess what it jammed during retraction. Found it had thoroughly jammed itself in the inby Firefox3D - General
Just realised, you will need to move the carriage back to the X and Y end-stops after a print otherwise it will keep adding the offset, I just turn the motors off and move it by hand, absolute start position precision!by Firefox3D - General
Quotefg dude QuoteDaGameFace thats because the home position is 0,0 and is off the bed. 0,0 should be at the corner of the bed configure your endstop settings so it knows that its at negative coordinates at its home position True, as I have no problems with electricity and mechanics, the more I have on programming, no clue where I can change this, In cura or in the Marlin Fw so any help on wherby Firefox3D - General
My config has been posted but the Duet probably has a different config to the board you are using. DC42 (Dave) might be able to comment on how the Duet settings transpose to other boards. However I have found two things that might help. 1. Get some WD40 (or other) ptfe dry lubricant for the bearings. I sprayed this in the bearings and on the rails and it flushed dust and crap out the bearings anby Firefox3D - General
The extruders are ok as long as you don't want to print fast as I think the original filament was slightly less than the standard 1.75mm. There is excessive resistance when pushing the filament through, especially with the tough ASA I am running now. ABS might be easier, picking up a roll tomorrow. Changed the bed levelling system so the adjustment screws are underneath into thread locked nutsby Firefox3D - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist QuoteFirefox3D I noticed on mine there is some slop in the Z bearings such that you can move the front of the bed up and down a few mm as it is hinging on the bearings. Did someone mention the bearings were near impossible to get out and replace? I think the bearings allow some degree of slop, but gravity will normally keep the end of the cantilevered bed down. It willby Firefox3D - General
Two evenings of metalwork later... Now seriously stiff and the aluminium angles act as carrying handles - bonus! Found a use for the screen area - enclosure temp Bed works on an inteference fit with a pair of M6 bolts at the back, 2 nuts as spacers = 10mm offset, same as the plastic bed trim flipped over and re-purposed. The plastic snugs up against the bed, the bed heated will grow a fractionby Firefox3D - General
Quoteobelisk79 To-do: -Stiffen the assembly. I noticed at higher travel/print speeds the momentum of the x-carriage causes vibrations in the cantilevered bed creating visible variations between layers. obelisk79 I noticed on mine there is some slop in the Z bearings such that you can move the front of the bed up and down a few mm as it is hinging on the bearings. Did someone mention the bearingsby Firefox3D - General
Changed to a smaller lighter motor for the extruder, which I thought was causing a feed issue due to less torque, but the issue continued going back to the original. Discovered there was a small lip caused by a misalignment of the two halves of the extruder body where the filament exits. Got rid of it with a combination of a 2mm drill and a de-burring bit. I could feel the filament catch on sometby Firefox3D - General
Quotetoto08 Hi John, I was thinking of redoing the case completely. Already because I actually think it is part of the structure. The left and right sides ensure the connection and squareness of the posts. Then because the bed does not go through the window! For my part, I thought to make an aluminum casing 2mm thick or dibond 3mm. A plus ! Toni Good idea, I was going to seal off the side wby Firefox3D - General
I have the acrylic cabinet screwed on, what I am talking about is caused by the fact the moving carriage mass is essentially rocking the printer. The test I was doing with small rapid movements was worst case scenario but it was clearly visible that's what was happening. I can't show you exactly what I am talking about as the test piece is at the workshop. I think wires wouldn't necessarily helpby Firefox3D - General
toto08 I will post full wiring details and the config files in the week, the printer is at my workshop and I'm working on other things this weekend. Ordering parts for the heated bed, 750W 30cm x 30cm mains powered silicone heater connected via a 10amp SSR. One thing I noticed doing a test print with small rapid movements of the Y carriage is you can see/feel the printer moving due to the highby Firefox3D - General
Got mine last Friday, tried it with Simplify3d BFB file output then Codex to create the encrypted cubex print file. Worked ok, but print quality was nothing special for the amount of time it took me to get it to accept the file, anyway was a relatively fun evening! Stripped out all the electronics from the base, and flipped the acrylic base over so there is no gap between the sides and the bottoby Firefox3D - General
Found a better oneby Firefox3D - General
As I was planning to run a test on the Cubex before modding it I just set up the slicing software, also needed a test print file. You can't mess around with settings apart from layer height and part density. First layer is always 0.5mm then 5 solid layers of the chosen thickness with 3 perimeters. Infill is single 45 degree lines Fast draught forces 0.25mm layer with 4 solid starting layers andby Firefox3D - General
QuoteTheJones QuoteFirefox3D ... I think a 300mm x 300mm will fit... It will fit. I have a 300x300 plate sitting in mine right now, and the XY seems to hit all corners. However, it does have a drawback. You will loose the scraper/waste bin, as it will not fit in there with the larger build plate. Here is a picture of what I mean. Thanks, nice to know it's going to work. Mine (when I finally gby Firefox3D - General
Looking at it again it's probably overkill since 300W silicone heater pads are readily available. Also having to wait a while for a long print is not a big deal. I was looking at a fairly beefy aluminium bed as it will hold the heat and won't warp. Have bought the machined faced Ecocast from here the surface is better than 0.1mm overall. Looking at the pro machines like Stratasys they seem toby Firefox3D - General