mas que el infill son las capas o las shells que le das, incluso haciendo la partes con 0% de infill pero varias capas obtenes la misma resistencia que una con mucho infill y pocas capas, la fuerza se distribuye mucho mejor en capas que en el relleno cuadriculadoby jorgeneo560 - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
im trying to print in abs a rc flying wing, the peaces are very tall and warps in the middle, so much that almost crack it self, for a reprap style printers its hard to put a encolusre temperature of 80c, most common stepper mottors works fine up to 60C more than that and start to loosing torque, and also you need to low the amperage of the motors for avoding overheating, however a encolusre temby jorgeneo560 - General
i bought a filler gauge and level my bed with the 0.1 mm gauge, then i move the z axis 0.1 mm to "touch" the nozzle, to be totaly 0, of course i do this with the nozzle out of the heatbed and start to print, and the result is freaking amazing , perfects first layers always, my extrusion problems go away, i also tried with a paper and the result is very good too, i stoped a print in the middle anby jorgeneo560 - General
hi, i was printing good until yesterday , i dont know what happens, i level my bed like always, i checked the axis some days ago and they where squared, my dude is what is the ambient temperature needed? can i print pla in a room temperature of 12-19 celcius ? or is too cold? my z endstop broke, so what i do is after level the bed i reset the printer so start at 0 in z axis, i always do the sameby jorgeneo560 - General
i am having problems of extrusion and i suspect of the nozzle, it dosent had any mark that says 0.48 or 0.4, when i heat the hotend and manualy push pla in the hotend to get a string i get string of .50 .48 mm of widht, but when i try this tutorial i get 0.43 to 0.5 wall thickness, so i dont know if i need to adjust the extrusion multiplier or i putting a bad nozzle diameter in the slic3rby jorgeneo560 - Printing
i upload an schematics for driving the heatbed in 24 volts without modifying the ramps, its dosent matter how do you connect the 2 and 3 of the heatbed becouse its just a resistor, and the mosfet dosent need any protection becouse theres no any inductive load that can generate reverse current, i am using the irfp150n its over rated for powering a heatbed, but i choose it becouse it has the only oby jorgeneo560 - RAMPS Electronics
i dont know but i had heared that rise absord humidity as hell, putting the spool in a box filled with rice quickly sucks all humidity i heared, i didnt try it, but culd be a cheap and fast way if its worksby jorgeneo560 - Printing
hi, i had built a 3d printer like the ultimaker not the same but very similar, i having some troubles with high detail printing, i had all my axes squared, i chekit with a micrometer and with a 90 degree steel angle rectified with cnc, so no chance to be mechanical problem, i had a bowden extruder setup, i had printing some pices and the quality is very good with a litte stringin/ooze, and yes iby jorgeneo560 - Slic3r
had the same issue with zmin using a optoendstop, my case is marlin i tested the port with 2 optos with this code and pins are working good //what pin are we using? #define ENDSTOP_PIN 2 #define ENDSTOPa_PIN 3 //which opto enstop are we using? //this is for the H21LOB #define INVERTED 1 //this is for the H21LOI //#define INVERTED 0 void setup() { pinMode(ENDSTOP_PIN, INPUT); pinMode(ENDSby jorgeneo560 - General