Ok, I see what you are saying. Thanks for pointing that out. However, I seem to be having more basic problems than auto-calibration. Using your latest marlin (1.1.6-AC) my printer won't home properly. The Y and Z carriages home as expected but the X carriage stops about 10cm short of the endstop on the first home command. A second home command homes it correctly. Also, when homing the Y and Z carby cheddy - Delta Machines
I have a DIY delta printer using RAMPS 1.4/Arduino Mega 2650. I first tried Repetier-Firmware but couldn't get anything to work properly so I switched to Marlin with much better luck. At first I was using an older version of Marlin (files dated 2015-01-11) that worked correctly for homing (all carriages return to MAX position), but when I issue a 'G1 Z-10' manual command the Y and Z carriages desby cheddy - Delta Machines
Update: I tried using Marlin instead of Repetier-Firmware with much better luck. My motors now work more or less as expected, although I had to switch the motor direction. I need to do some more tweaking of the parameters, but it looks like I'm making some real progress at last . I would love to know why the rep-fw was such a dud. All the comments I see claim it is much better than Marlin. Howeveby cheddy - General
I checked the motor wiring and they are wired correctly (i.e. for the X, Y and Z towers) and from the M119 results when I manually test the endstops I can tell that they are paired correctly, so I am at a loss with this one. I will check the motor wiring to make sure the wires are paired correctly..by cheddy - General
BTW, the wiring on my stepper motors seems different to all the examples i have seen. Mine are wired into into the connector in blue-red-green-black sequence (as delivered), whereas all the examples I have seen are red-blue-green-black. Could this make a difference?by cheddy - General
Sorry, should have thought of that. My configuration.h is attached. P.S. I'll double check the wiring. I was pretty careful to label them so I knew which was which but I'll check it to make sure.by cheddy - General
I have a new reprap delta printer that I just built from scratch, using RAMPS 1.4/Arduino Mega 2650 controller with Repetier-Firmware. I am having a lot of trouble getting the motor controls to work properly. I have tested all 3 max-endstop switches and M119 reports the correct states. When I manually lower the accessor @ 100mm and then hit the home button (Repetier-Host) the Y-tower and the Z-toby cheddy - General
Does anyone know if this BT7272A RAMPS 1.4 Plus board supports auto-leveling? If so, where are the connections/pin-outs for the leveling probe?by cheddy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I tried printing ABS with the bed at 100C (105C for first layer) and my test print went fine. The model stayed stuck to the bed and wasn't too difficult to remove after printing (I'm using BuildTak as the bed surface.) That was only a fairly small test model, so I'm not sure if it will work as well with larger models, but so far it looks good. If it will print OK at those temperatures (extruderby cheddy - Reprappers
QuoteDavid J Have you tried putting insulation under the print bed? I have a PCB heater on both of my printers (the aluminium version) and I made a sandwich - PCB on top, 2 layers of thin cork sheet, then another metal plate on the bottom. This, plus a bit of corrugated card on top while heating up, allows it to get up to 100C in a reasonable amount of time. A cold room, or draughts, may preveby cheddy - Reprappers
Oops! Make that a 'M140 S0' command in the end g-code. M190 should wait until the bed reaches the target temperature, which it never will at zero degrees. However, in my case it skipped right along to the 'Finished' state, so maybe Marlin is smart enough to just switch the bed heater off and return control immediately when the target temperature is zero. That would seem like a reasonable policy iby cheddy - Printing
Update: I fixed the problem by adding a 'M190 S0' command to the end g-code. Everything works fine now - print jobs complete properly.by cheddy - Printing
I have repetier-server running on a Raspberry Pi Zero W driving my prusa i3 reprap printer. Everything appears to work fine - I can manually control the printer, etc., and print jobs run from the 'Direct Print' function, except they never finish properly. They get stuck at about 99% completion. The extruder returns to the park position and the extruder heater is turned off, but the bed heater remby cheddy - Printing
The set-screw holding the extruder heater into the hot-end is loose on my printer, but it is gummed up with filament residue. Does anyone have a simple solution for cleaning the screw? I have tried soaking the hot-end in acetone (just the hot-end, not the entire extruder). That got a bit of the filament loose but not enough to get a good purchase with the allen key.by cheddy - Reprappers
Great minds... that was one of the first design/print jobs I did...by cheddy - Reprappers
Right! Of course! Put the insulation under the bed. What was I thinking? That would make a difference. I will give that a try. How do you fix the padding to the bottom of the bed? Do you use longer corner screws and put the leveling springs under the padding, with a rigid under-plate? Got a spool of PETG filament on order. I'm keen to see how it works after all the recommendations. Thanks forby cheddy - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I have an Flsun i3 Prusa clone from 3DPrinterCreator that has a heated print bed. The bed heating works fine for PLA printing (I run it at 60C for PLA, otherwise the models won't stick to the bed.) My problem comes when trying to print ABS, which requires a much hotter print bed (110-120C.) My printer in incapable of heating the bed much above 93C, at which point the heat is dissipating faster thby cheddy - Reprappers
Quotelkcl hiya cheddy, i remember that nophead recommended the trick of putting several layers of cardboard (cutting up the box his kit arrived in.. ) in between the metal plate and the printbed. that stops airflow getting in underneath, and also acts as a heat-trap. Hi Ikcl, thanks for your quick response. I don't think the print bed on my printer has two layers, just a single aluminum plateby cheddy - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I bought the Flsun i3 printer kit from 3DPrinterCreator via Amazon. The kit arrived within a week, which was amazing all the way from Hong Kong. The packaging was as described by R.G. above, except that the PSU was packed in a different location in the main box, but it was also damaged in transit - a corner of the box had been stove in by some rough handling. In my case the supplier was very respby cheddy - Extruded Aluminum Frames