Well, there's definitely an electrical issue, Check out the schematic You can 'repurpose' the second extruder port to be used as your Y-Axis. All you need to do is drop your Y-Stepper Driver onto the second extruder port, and change the pins around in the firm ware. (Pin.h I think) Swap Y-Step for E1-Step Y-Dir for E1-Dir Y-ENable for E1-ENable This may get you up and running. If you wanby ShadowRam - Reprappers
No you don't need an SD Card. All the commands can be sent to your Arduino from your computer.by ShadowRam - General
Throw the RAMPS 1.4 test code firmware into it. http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip It will make all axis move back and forth a little bit. This will confirm if the Y-Axis motor and Y-Stepper Driver is 100% functional from a wiring, current setting and power supply aspect. If it works, then the issue must be a sprinter configuration problem or a pronterface problem. (Most likely Endsby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Are you Max Endstop's enabled? Have you tried homing the Y before moving it? (I had this problem in Marlin, but not Sprinter) What is you maximum range set for Y? #define Y_MAX_POS ??? #define Y_MIN_POS ?by ShadowRam - Reprappers
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS Uncomment this line... by removing the // #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS You max endstops are triggered, because you have nothing conencted to them, and the inputs are inverted. (Your M119 shows them as triggered) Since your firmware isn't set to disable and ignore those max_endstops, you machine thinks it is at it's maximum range and won't allow the axis to movby ShadowRam - Reprappers
theruss007 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Honestly all it looks like when ever you buy a > board is the Stepper Driver boards, various pin > connections, and resistors. (I'm oversimplifying > of course.) That being said, I already have the > Easydriver boards, and resistors are certainly > cheap. lol > > I'm most likely missing somethingby ShadowRam - General
You can still cool the PEEK. The J-Head is PEEK, and requires cooling. You mind as well try it, what do you have to lose? Small PC fan and some zip ties.by ShadowRam - General
Question in the title. Anyone try a 24V Source for the heater? and keeping a 12V Source for the rest of the electronics?by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
Take a look at my beast www.shadowram.ca It's a fairly large contraption that has some beefier steppers on it than your standard RepRap. That said, the RAMPS 1.4 setup with Arduino Mega and Pololu - A4988's have been working like a charm. I figured for ~$150 for it all (Arduino, Stepper Drivers, and the RAMPS board) was worth a shot http://www.ultibots.com/arduino-mega-ramps-1-4-bundle/ My sby ShadowRam - General
matrix4721 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > im using a 500w q-tec atx psu, ive had to ditch > the last one cos it kept cutting out, ive doubled > the 12v wiring up on and replaced the wiring that > goes from the ramps board to the heater with wire > out of a mains lead, voltage now reads 11.93v when > idle, 11.11v when the heater is running (testeby ShadowRam - Reprappers
MD2013 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks guys. I swapped the end stops and any > combination of the three work with X and Z. Y > doesn't do anything with any of them conneted. > > M119 returns: > > x_min:L y_min:L z_min:L So no matter what physical endstop you have plugged into the Ymin, you can't get the Y Endstop to toggle?by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Wait a minute, Isn't the VCC supplied by the Arduino? By hooking up an external 5V source, are you not now backfeeding through the Ardunio? Right from Arduino's Website 5V. This pin outputs a regulated 5V from the regulator on the board. The board can be supplied with power either from the DC power jack (7 - 12V), the USB connector (5V), or the VIN pin of the board (7-12V). Supplying voltage vby ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
Couldn't all the cons of a bowden be solved by a small light incremental encoder at the hotend? So many joints, I think the number of tolerances will add up, and I'm worried you will have a tough time getting 1mm accuracy at the tool end. Interesting project though, keep going!by ShadowRam - Delta Machines
What I was going to do was just select the RAMPS 1.4 setting, and use the RAMPS Schematic to make sure I connect to the same pins. NOTE: Within the configuration.h of popular Arduino Frimware, you can easily re-assign pins if you want to.by ShadowRam - General
Iceman086 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I know that more surface area touching the > rod will mean more friction Incorrect, Surface Area has no bearing (haha pun) on friction. It's a common misconception. Friction is a result of force and a coefficient. A pyramid block on it's base and pushed, has the exact same friction if it was balanced on it's poinby ShadowRam - General
You'll have to give us a country of where you are located, There are sellers all over the world, and shipping is a big cost factorby ShadowRam - General
It sounds like you are losing your USB connection when you are drawing a decent amount of current. You are probably back-feeding current through the USB or you are drawing too much current from the USB port and your computer is shutting it down.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Annirak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ShadowRam Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > This will give you absolute encoding to any > > resolution you want can afford without the need > for encoded > > disks or optics. > > High-res, low noise ADC's are expensive. This is > compounded by thiby ShadowRam - Delta Machines
mung Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > > rol2 > > I think 20mA max current. > > The drivers are for output only driving > step/direction for most stepper motor drivers, > eventually some input maybe implemented. > > It can drive bog standard chinese tb6560 stepper > drivers, but as said no thorough tests have been >by ShadowRam - General
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... instead of homing you could use some high-res > encoding data on the disks, so after power up the > actual absolute position can be read by rotating > the disks until the nearest encoding raster is > sensed ... Even easier, especially if you want to go the reprap cheap way. Use a potentiometer. Even one outby ShadowRam - Delta Machines
QuoteHe calls Cody Wilson, founder of Defense Distributed, "irresponsible" to share files for a printable gun online: "If you look at these files, there are all sorts of attached text documents about how to put them together, but nothing about the materials you must use for it to work or the printer you need to employ. It's highly irresponsible, but there are plenty of fools who will jump at theby ShadowRam - General
I can't seem to find any electrical specifications on the Raspberry Pi's IO. I'm looking for Input impedance? analog reading functions? (Voltage, Resistance, Current) analong ADC bit-resolution? Sourcing or Sinking? Internal pull-ups or downs? Max output current per pin? Max output current of all pins combined? Sourcing or Sinking? PWM? current controlled? etc, etc. With this general informaby ShadowRam - General
I'm also having an issue finding out what table to use. I recently got a MK V-B, and it came with a thermistor. I have no information on which one it is. I know it's ~100k at room temperature, and it was ~30k at 50deg Cby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Looking better! How do you plan on homing it? EDIT : You might be able to home it by having a small hole in an identical spot on all three wheels. Use a through beam sensor to detect the hole.by ShadowRam - Delta Machines
Configuration.h in your firmware. There's a line in there to invert the direction of each Axis.by ShadowRam - Repetier
Cefiar Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not really, as the LED is forward biased rather > than reverse biased. Ahhh, good point.by ShadowRam - Controllers
nicholas.seward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Very true. However, I am dreaming of insane > accelerations that will generate forces that > overshadow gravity. You'll need a stiff system then. The rotational point down by the motors, how do you prevent 'wobble' by the time you get up to the large wheels? Since the arms are cantilevered from the baseby ShadowRam - Delta Machines
I don't know if backlash would even be a problem considering you would have gravity working for you to hold the assembly against the one side of the screw.by ShadowRam - Delta Machines
Interesting concept for sure. But it looks like it may be an inertia nightmare with that large wheels in the air. I'm assuming you calculated the required torque, and those belt ratios are the reason for them being so big. But I think going back to NEMA 17's and reducing the size of those wheels would be a better 'first attempt' at the concept. EDIT: Thinking about it even more, considering tby ShadowRam - Delta Machines