There are still many possibilities like: - More moisture in the filament now than before, more steam causing more ooze? - Different filament than before? - Something else unknown? So you may need to do a hollow calibration pyramid to check that retraction is enough. Have to check the basics.by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
That's very odd. Does it actually retract when moving between every part? Check your extruder gear, is it clogged with filament bits?by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
I had a Rumba powered at 28V and ran it for months, till I just upgraded to a Smoothieboard and haven't looked back. I know now that I was having problems overheating the drivers. The symptom is shifted layers due to lost steps. These could be anything from a very minor shift to a big shift. If you use a higher voltage, and also high current then you have to have very good heat syncs and verby Paul Wanamaker - Controllers
I agree with the above. Also, here is also a link for calibrating flow rate. You should print some basic unfilled rectangles and check the dimensions. The part is also overheated. Not sure what kind of filament you are using or the temps. You may need to lower the temp/add a fan, and with such small parts print more than one so it doesn't overheat. Hope that helps.by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
I will be there, and will be exhibiting Raptosaur, with my makerspace: Vocademy. Still putting on the finishing touches.... I'm looking forward to it, hope to see you there.by Paul Wanamaker - General
Rich, This is a very common problem. See This Threadby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Raptor, We'd like to help, but that's not enough info to go on, there are so many variables... What kind of printer? What hot end? What filament? What printing temp, and speed? Layer height? Which slicer? Extrusion width? Has it been printing fine, and now is suddenly bad (clogged extruder)? Have you done a Flow Rate Calibration?by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
I like Lenbok's find, I never new that was there. That looks very promising, especially if you've designed the part yourself.by Paul Wanamaker - General
Concerning a filament out sensor as discussed above: This is now easily doable. I've just upgraded to a Smoothieboard, and there is a feature for this, and also a pause/resume button, if you want to switch filament. It can move the print head out of the way, retract the filament, etc (whatever g-codes you tell it to do). It can then resume where it left off. I've not done it yet, but the funcby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Perhaps you could just add some very small holes in the model next to where you want it solid. That would force the slicer to add perimeters there, making it more solid. If the holes are small enough you might not hardly notice them.by Paul Wanamaker - General
I just watched the video, that helped. It looks like your feed rates are too high when homing. I'd suggest lowering the homing feedrate, and lowering the acceleration. Hope that helps.by Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Here is a good crimping tool I just got from Amazon, only $23 and well worth more. I'm not sure what you mean about the motors not being on at the start. After a G28 (home) command all the motors should be engaged. This should be the first command that is executed whenever you print. This can be put in your slicer's custom gcode settings. Hope your build and calibration goes well...by Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
OK, that was a good test. Delta printers have a lot higher computation overhead that the rest, due to lots of 32-bit square roots being done to calculate the effector position. You will see this as stuttering during moves. This will cause blobbing at each point as it pauses, and could cause missed steps (as the acceleration is interrupted). A lot of it depends on how many pulses per second theby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
I fully agree with the above. Deltas require a lot more processing power that cartesian printers. ... So you may well get fed up with your 8 bit relic and nave to spend more to replace it (as I did). My Smoothie got here yesterday and will be installed today.by Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
I have completed the first complete rough draft of the Reprap Filtration System, v0.1 I was able to make this one unit that's fairly compact. If you can find a more compact ULPA filter then this could be made even more compact. I am attaching a view of to top, bottom, and an exploded view. Starting from the bottom you have: The fan, The Bottom Duct, The Carbon Filter Tray, The HEPA filter wby Paul Wanamaker - Safety & Best Practices
I have completed the first complete rough draft of the Reprap Filtration System, v0.1 I was able to make this one unit that's fairly compact. If you can find a more compact ULPA filter then this could be made even more compact. I am attaching a view of to top, bottom, and an exploded view. Starting from the bottom you have: The fan, The Bottom Duct, The Carbon Filter Tray, The HEPA filter wby Paul Wanamaker - Safety & Best Practices
I agree with Doug, the rectified voltage will be higher than the secondary voltage. If you have measured the output voltage, and the heater's resistance then you can use Ohms Law to determine what the current will be. The voltage will drop a bit under load, but you need safety margins anyway. Make sure the transformer's secondary and the rectifier are rated for more than that calculated currenby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Beware if you are going to be switching a transformer primary with a SSR. Depending on the phase at the moment it's switched there can be a huge inrush current (hundreds of amps). What you are planning would do that randomly. See this Regardsby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Aparkin, Hepa filters remove 99.97% of particles that have a size of 0.3 micron and larger. That alone is may not be enough as many the particles we are worried about here are about .1 micron. A ULPA filter however will filter 99.999+% at .1 micron. That's more like it. The trick is that you need to filter in stages so the ULPA filter does not immediately get plugged up. I am finalizing aby Paul Wanamaker - Safety & Best Practices
Excellent. Just check that the motor doesn't get too hot. You can always put a fan on it if needed.by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Yes... vreihen you are so right. In preparation to receive my Smoothie I went through the documentation on the Smoothieware website last night. I am so impressed, it's very very good! I downloaded the sample Delta config and have updated it - very easy. The Delta auto-calibration looks very good. I'm curious how well the volumetric extrusion control works. (BTW Repetier has "Advance" which isby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
I agree with hercek. If the printer is calibrated then you can print anywhere on an enlarged bed. In Slic3r you can provide an STL with the bed outline and it will use it. That makes it very handy for placing objects. See this threadby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
I've seen something like this. Are you using Slic3r? If so, do you have the "Wipe while retracting" setting on? If so - turn it off and see. That's under Printer settings, Extruder1, "Wipe while retracting". When I had it on: retraction made odd sounds and took longer.by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Congratulations on having it moving well! That is great to see. It looks very clean. I just ordered a Smoothie also... can't wait to get it. I'm glad to hear it's easy to set up.by Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Ottist I've seen similar. Does the extruder drag the lower layers over a bit? That can be a sign of too high printing temp, or over extrusion, so I think you need to check the extrusion temperature. The temp it's reading may have little basis in reality for that particular filament, so you may want to do some tests with much lower temperatures, work down 5 degrees at a time until you find theby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
Andin, You have given very good details. You have a lot more experience, so I hesitate to comment. I'm not an expert with PLA since I found my all metal hot end wouldn't print it reliably, but I like a challenging problem, so here goes - take with a grain of salt: It sounds like a heat buildup problem when a retract occurs followed by a long travel. That would give the filament time to soften,by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
The enclosure for my printer is 3/4" MDO plywood, that in itself is joined tightly. I just cut the foam at a bevel to fit tightly together and tacked it to the interior with a tiny amount of urethane glue - minimal gaps if any. I used some aluminum tape to cover the foam edges around the inside of the door - Nashua 324A. That's good stuff, also from H.D. Most of the heat is lost from the beltby Paul Wanamaker - General
The heated bed going off too, and the PSU light.. that's odd. So it do not sound like a driver adjustment issue. The PS must be at fault. Can you put a voltmeter on it when that's happening? It may be too brief to catch that way tho.by Paul Wanamaker - General
A couple of things to consider: Lexan panels are fairly pricey so you may want to reserve those for the door. I used double panels which I bent. You may want to consider foam panels like these: R-matte Plus 3 has R3.2 Only about $13.00 from Home Depot here in the US for a 1/2" x 4' x 8' sheet, and can take reasonable heat. That's what I used. They also have 3/4" available and possibly thickby Paul Wanamaker - General