Constraining a bent screw at the top will force it to wobble in the middle...where the nut usually is. This has been known to cause Z axis banding on prints. No problem is solved by constraining the top and only serves to make it worse. I don't know how you came to the conclusion the letting the screw move freely at the end causes a Z motor to skip, if anything it would be worse when constrainby tjb1 - Developers
It's just a bolt or piece of threaded rod with a hole and notch cut into it. You'll need a lathe to do it right but it could be done other ways, I'd recommend all-thread because I don't believe the stuff Home Depot sells is hardened. Do not buy a Grade 8 bolt because you likely wont be able to drill it.by tjb1 - General
I've always seen that the nuts should not be a tight fit so they can pull out of the carriages if the hotend hits the bed. I would not glue them in because the nuts pulling out has saved me a few times when I bumped the endstop out of the way.by tjb1 - Reprappers
If you want to move the extruder without heating the hotend or fudging the minimum extrusion temperature in the firmware, just send the printer M302 and it will allow the extruder to move while hotend is cold.by tjb1 - Reprappers
QuoteOhmarinus Quotetjb1 QuoteOhmarinus Hey, great work the MendelMax 1.5 is missing though (has Z-motors on bottom instead of on top vertex). Do you know of any other pages that have a large amount of printers on them? Also, I don't see a page for the 1.5. Just the MendelMax page which claims to be for 1.X but does not have the modification. I'm sorry for the confusion, the MendelMax 1.5 caby tjb1 - General
I've been running my Kossel Mini using the hotend as a bed probe with FSR to detect hits. It is running Marlin with upgrades by Johann and the threshold on the sensors is set so that the lightest touch triggers and it grabs the baseline right before the probing starts so it works very well. If you got a crooked hotend I think you may have other issues, I've had some configuration errors and whiby tjb1 - General
QuoteOhmarinus Hey, great work the MendelMax 1.5 is missing though (has Z-motors on bottom instead of on top vertex). Do you know of any other pages that have a large amount of printers on them? Also, I don't see a page for the 1.5. Just the MendelMax page which claims to be for 1.X but does not have the modification.by tjb1 - General
I've added a wiki page to make it easier to find what printer to build. It has 1 good picture of each printer, link to page and some other useful information to sort by. If anyone good with wiki editing would like to help that would be great, right now I've taken every printer from the Reprap Options page and just dumped them. I'd like to eventually sort them by cartesian, delta, special, etc.by tjb1 - General
Quotethecrazy Did anyone ever get the design files? RRD promotes this is an open source project but I cant find any files, not even in their open source section on their site. I've looked many times, can not find anything. As far as I know my files on Thingiverse are the only reference, they are drawn to size if you wanted to reference those. I will eventually get to the groovehead mount if Iby tjb1 - For Sale
QuoteRett Mikhal I'm not sure that's an option for me, however, as this design requires nylock nuts to be inserted into the traps. Heating up the nylock would most likely damage it. I may just throw some delicious locktite in there. Loctite will ruin ABS, makes it become brittle and fall apart. I'd also not use lock nuts, if they get in the trap and then spin you are pretty much screwed out ofby tjb1 - General
Quoteakonkol Quotethatsme My advice, buy somewhere else. DIY Techshop is far from professional when it comes to emails and calls. I know I orderred the Prusa i3 Xl and received the small Prusa i3. they sent parts to make it an XL but they are not as shown on the pictures. If I had to do it again. I'd go Makerfarm. I'm currently having communication issues with DIY Techshop right now. I purchaseby tjb1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotederletztename But what does the -1 stands for? Is this some kind of placeholder for sth.? Not defined.by tjb1 - RAMPS Electronics
Did you set the vref on the driver for those motors?by tjb1 - Reprappers
How do you plan on keeping enough heat there so the hotend can maintain temperature and flow? Doesn't take much before the plastic is taking all of the heat out of the nozzle and soon stripping at the gear.by tjb1 - Developers
Quotensoul @Dust: Yea I wasn't sure exactly, the notes in the code said that the software will use 0 by default anyways for the Mega so I figured it wouldn't hurt. Apparently it did haha I'm running win7 and the baud rate is set to 115200. I confirmed the serial port was correct using device manager and I also tested a simple arduino example (LED blink) just to be absolutely certain. I'm going toby tjb1 - Reprappers
An E3D which is well known for clogging with PLA? A J-Head would be a far better universal choice if sticking to PLA/ABS, Buda also since they both use the liners and are very reliable with both plastics.by tjb1 - General
QuoteMiertam Well that was useless. Contacted support they said ... [9/9/2014 11:41:40 PM] Sir Ket: Hello, I bought one of your i2 prusa Kits a few months ago. I was looking around for the .STL files so I can print out spare parts for my machine but I can't find them on the 3dstuffshare site. Am I just missing them? [9/9/2014 11:42:13 PM] 3Dstuffmaker Support: Hi.. This is Jane. [9/9/2014 11:42by tjb1 - General
Not sure if you are still into this but I built my own table about 2 years ago, feel free to look at the pictures here - and ask any questions.by tjb1 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Can you load Repetier Host and try? I am not familiar with Pronterface errors.by tjb1 - Reprappers
QuoteUkIan Thanks everyone! I am resisting the urge to splurge, there's a fatal attraction involved with power tools so I'm going to seal my wallet in amber until I've made a sensible choice. My gut is going with band saw as it feels more precise (from what I remember from metalwork at school), although I also found this which will go through steel comfortably. The sort of things I'm looking toby tjb1 - General
Not all drivers place the pot on that side of the board. Just look up the pinout and compare to your controller, you will get caught if you always place the pot away from something. If you really want help, you are going to need to share what controller you are using and are you setting vRef on them?by tjb1 - General
I would start with configuring Marlin and loading that. Spinter is very old (in printer development time) and your issues are likely caused by something being out of date since it is not being developed anymore.by tjb1 - Reprappers
"The high-center and low-center conditions can be adjusted in firmware with changes to DELTA_RADIUS. And in the firmware DELTA_RADIUS is calculated from SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET, DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET, and DELTA_RADIUS. In order to correct low-center, DELTA_RADIUS must be increased. In order to correct high-center, DELTA_RADIUS must be decreased. Adjust your firmware accordingly, re-compile and uploadby tjb1 - General
Look's like this may be it - You should check the Melzi pinout at this location and compare it to the pinout of the Sanguinololu board to verify that it is the same.by tjb1 - General
That's a RAMPs adapter. You need this one - or you can look at where the pins go and create your own solution.by tjb1 - General
Quotemwhatch When the printer starts to print the axis try to go way past the limits. Repetier says it is connected, show the printer information and has manual control. Everything seems to work manually, just seems to go crazy after slicing and starting to print. Those are all very simple issues to fix but you will need knowledge of the firmware.by tjb1 - General
Quotemk3a Ok, that makes sense. Except I can't get it to do that. Homing causes the X carriage to move a short distance downward, followed immediately by the Y and then the Z in rapid succession. Afterward, it will no longer respond to requests to move up past this point, so it's obviously setting the new position as the maximum Z. It never moves up to the endstops. I must be missing somethingby tjb1 - Reprappers
Quotemk3a A small breakthrough. I was measuring the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET from the center of the printer, not the outside. That made a huge difference. X and Y motion now makes sense. It is not flat, but that's fine, I'm sure I can tweak that. One thing I don't understand is the homing behavior. It still just moves down each time I hit the button. Shouldn't hitting home move down to the print bby tjb1 - Reprappers
JustPLA has been selling at that price for a whileby tjb1 - General