For what is worth, I use Permatex high temp silicone (used on engine blocs to make gaskets, the copper tube) to hold the thermistor and heat element on the head.. isolate it as well.. its easy to remove.by Rigor_M - General
@waitaki: well its good, gets to te point and a great way to make heads ! koodos ! It that a laite with a bit chick installed on it ? i'm looking at tools with chucks on them at home and they dont turn as round as your. and another question, the bit you used, is it the ones used to make PCBs ? thanks !by Rigor_M - General
I like the way you make the hole in the head. its totally brilliant ! You could make a series of heads in less than 10 minutes ! ;-) Do you have a list of items used to make the hotend ?? that would be really keen ! Great job.by Rigor_M - General
jimjamma: I saw the video on Z-axis with the belt and big pulley. Is the big pulley printed or did you get it from sdp/si ? if its printed, how do you like it ? is it working ok and if so, what are the print specs ? i'm looking into building this kind of mecanism on my z-axis too. Thanks :-) J-Fby Rigor_M - Tantillus
In fact, I did some more testing, I did try what you said (never rule out a idea ;-) ). But since i'm using a laptop, there is no loopback ground possible. (at lease I havent found one) But I did find something worth mentioning, When changing the 5V selector to USB POWER, the problem goes away. I can do a much G28 and G29 as I want.. it wont reset. But, as soon as I but it back in its originalby Rigor_M - Controllers
Hi, I'm installing a rumba board on a custom 3d printer that i'm building. The problem that i'm facing is : Random disconnect from the PC to the board.. I've tested with my windows laptop and my imac. both have the same problem. at anytime, it will disconnect.. I will issue a G28 to home the axes and it could time out there.. if it dosent, the, in a middle of a G29 (bed auto level). I triedby Rigor_M - Controllers
Sure, i'm glad to help the guy with some word to mouth ;-) Keenovo on ebay Just send him a email with the specs.. he also have standard sizes already to buy from. It takes 7 open days to build the custom heater and send time (took 1 week ½) from China to Est Canada. ( Very fast for free economy shipping)by Rigor_M - Reprappers
I'm sorry but I have to say, There is alot of 3D printer part out there.. sure, alot of them come from china but still... for that price per motors, i'm sure you could of gotten 3 76onz.in NEMA 17 china. they are enough to do the job.. Personaly, for that rebate, i'm gotten things that need quality like bearings and smooth stainless steel linear rods :-) just my 2¢, dont want to start a fight oby Rigor_M - General
Quote691175002 The amount charged should be total if it is like my order. I placed a 150$ order from Canada, paid 15$USD in shipping and then another 14% in tax (damn you HST). The total was around 42CAD after the conversion, so most of what I paid was tax and the us/cad conversion. A friend in Alberta only paid 5% tax so he got a "better" deal in that sense. I see.. I cant say how much was tby Rigor_M - General
Just got my order minutes ago and my CC also just got billed. For a 172.94$USD, I paid 82.85$CAN on my CC.. Its unclear if its only shipping or the total. the 172.94$ - 150$ dosent appear on my bank statement... hope its totcal because I would not of agreed to a 83$ shipping cost. :-Sby Rigor_M - General
Not the PLA, I ment the bed. Usually, ppl use glass or aluminium... sometime, Garolite is used for printing nylon.by Rigor_M - Printing
QuoteVDX ... there are special greases for plastic and metal pairings ... but you can use vaseline or woolwax too ... ok. In my case, I dont have plastic with metal pairing.. onlyt metal on metal.. Vaseline you say.. i tough about it but I wasen't sure... I dont know what woolwax is.. Have to look it up. I has thinking about using this one Permatex ultra slickby Rigor_M - Reprappers
I never heard about that material.. could it be the reason its not sticking ? But in that sense, yeah, be carefulby Rigor_M - Printing
I did my first order 2 weeks ago, and thing that bugs me is that, you never get a shipping price.. i'm going to receive my order tomorrow and STILL haven't got the bill for the material and the shipping/taxes costs. I hope I dont have any trouble with the 150$ promo the stuff on the site is a bit expensive i think. but still, some items you can't find on ebay.. like 8mmx12mmx25mm bronze bushinby Rigor_M - General
I'm building a custom printer that dosent have a heatbed (for now, it will, in the near future). I tried blue painter's tape.. for some reason, it dosent work well.. I have some cheap green tape roll from my local bogbox store that works better. as for the nozzle, try to put it close as possible to the glass so that it will compress the first layer a bit.. not as close as it will clog the nozzlby Rigor_M - Printing
Remember to use multi-braded 14AWG.. houseold wires are also 14AWG (the 120V/15A circuits anyway) but is a single insulated lead.. that one is too hard to use.. maybe go to your local bigbox store and get some extension cord sold by the foot/meter. get the heavy duty one. And strip the insulation around the wires. (I mean the jacket, not the insulation on the wire itself.by Rigor_M - General
Hi, I would like to know, what of grease you guys are using on the metal parts ? Basically, on the smooth shaft with the LMxUU bearing and the bronze bushing ? I will be building a ultimaker like X/Y with bronze bushing and LMxLUU and again, LMxUU on the Z-axis. i've see on the makerbot builds, a clear king of grease( I dont know what it is). I'm currently using the grease from my snowblowerby Rigor_M - Reprappers
For the heatbed, I custom ordered a silicone heater.. a 230mmx300mm (thats my build platform.. its on the 120Vac rail. they dont cost much.. I think I paid under 100$ for 2 of them.. best of all, you dont need a big power supply becase they are on the 120v.. so, you need about 6A for a single extruder with motors. 10A for a double extruding system. a simple SSR (solid state relay) will do the tby Rigor_M - Reprappers
Quotevreihen I do not think that there is any LCD support in the Megatronics test firmware, at least for the Megatronics 2.0 board. You need to install either Marlin or Repetier to use (or test) the LCD..... Yeah, Like vreihen said, use the real thing. I dont thing that your google specs are right.. look at this image.. this is what I have on mine. VEE == contrast pin.by Rigor_M - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Did you double check your wiring ? Theres a pot on the board to change contrast.. maybe its way down.. Did you enabled everything in the firmware ? is this a single unit ? (display only with no rotary encoder). make sure you have a recent firmware.. I had trouble compiling the firmware with options that enabled only the screen.. I had to hack the firmware to make it work.. I think its patchedby Rigor_M - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'll give it a shot.. Go look at the PDF : megatronicsv3.pdf on page #8, you should see the LCD part with the pins.. beside of the contrast, 5V and GND pins, you see the Dxx pins. Go to the bottom of the pdf and there will be a definition of every pins, match those Dxx pins on the header with the names on the bottom and on the LCD2004 pins names. There are 16 pins on there.. you dont need theby Rigor_M - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
If I want to try out and dont have a seemecnc, what are the parts needed ? (beside the double 608 bearings and what looks to be a MK8 filament gear) also, its a direct drive extruder, what makes it grip 4x more than others ? that part got my attention... i'm having trouble pushing my filament trough the bowden tube. ;-)by Rigor_M - Delta Machines
Thanks, at that price, i'll just get a dedicated probe ;-) I was thinking of a thermocouple because its more accurate when reading temperature than a normal thermistor.. I have a couple of those in stock.. i guess I could tape one on the bed to take readings..by Rigor_M - Controllers
ok, thanks. I had in mind that some thermocouple came with adapters and you could use something like 1mV/deg. scale. I found some on ebay that looks good. for sake of interess : Scientific Digital Thermometer 1 K-Type Thermocouple Temperature Sensor Probeby Rigor_M - Controllers
Hi, I want to calibrate my heatbed. I will be getting a silicone heater with a 100k ntc termistor inside. i'm thinking of sticking it on a 5mm think glass. I know that the thermistor will be inside the heater and not touching the glass so I want to find the final heat on top of the glass. anyone have a advise on a thermocouple that I could get ? maybe one that i could connect to my digital mulby Rigor_M - Controllers
looking at the second picture, looks like the hobbed bolt dosen't have deep grooves they get filed up pretty fast. (had this problem) The otherthing I would see, is bed filament.. too soft. Could be to much pressure on the compression bearing and sinking the filament in the hobbed bolt. did you try to pass the filament by hand ? see if there is a restriction in the head.. (also had that problemby Rigor_M - Printing
Thermal paste is not a type of glue. its a heat transfer paste.. they could of moved.by Rigor_M - Reprappers
Also, Looking at your first picture, looks like the extruder driver has his heatsink on the the pins.. I would look at that one first. If you want a good trick to install heatsinks: put some kapton tape under the heatsink, cut to size then super glue the heatsink on the chip. Make sure that it ONLY touch the chip and nothing else around.by Rigor_M - Reprappers
Those are DRV8825 step drivers, they are supposed to be in that orientation. A4998 have the pot facing the other side. You must have a short on the ramps. or maybe a really bad driver... (alot of ppl had drivers already broken on arrival). I have those exact drivers on my ramp board.by Rigor_M - Reprappers
QuoteOhmarinus QuoteRigor_M QuoteOhmarinus If you want the original ones? Get these babies: Not sure if they are the original, but I bought two of these and they work flawlessly! Direct Drive 1.75mm bowden setup PLA. I saw the reprap.me ones but I wasent sure of there quality.. does reprap.me sell good stuff ? I'm a bit doubting about the quality of the J-head, but the MK8 drive gear works sby Rigor_M - General