Yea, on the retraction i have it set at 4mm length retraction but there is a Z axis retraction option which i've never used...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
i think for this particular pla i have it set at 185... good point thought, will try a lower temp print.. on the retraction option should i retract on the Z axis at all?by 88Zombies - Ormerod
tried printing one of those voronoi sculptures (quite small), it's ended up being reallllly stringy. I tried printing a larger sculpture of a similar design but slightly larger and it worked ok so im guess it's because this particular print was so small. I have my retraction set to 4mm I believe.by 88Zombies - Ormerod
@Kim; Yea i do like slic3r, i havn't had any problems in any g-codes produced... only that on complex designs it some times doesn't complete creating the g-code. 1 or two files I've had to give up with as i left the computor whirling away for about 2 hours and still nothing... Is the big blue file complete now? was going to try printing the other day but read you were having problems creating theby 88Zombies - Ormerod
just wondering why my slicer is so slooooow!! it always stops at the loading point shown on the image attached... it isn't frozen, i can quite easliy cancel the g-code exporting... it happens about 95% of the time. rarely i'll try to export g-code and it will work like a dream. I have no other programmes running, there is no support material in the settings for the g-code. my laptop isn't greatby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Had this problem twice: 1. it was the belt slipping on the Y Axis. There is a clever little gizmo ( I think IamBurn created) which holds the belt in place, very clever. 2. My nozzle was too high. which meant the bottom of my fan duct kept catching on the plastic on the print-bed. (image attached) It might not necessarily be your fan duct catching but have you kept n eye on it so see if anythingby 88Zombies - Ormerod
sweet, that's exactly what I wanted to hear!! my fan has a red, yellow & black wire. should i just i leave the red wire loose?? i assume not can it be litteraly any of the wires from the PSU, there is an unused connection block thing that has a red, black, black, yellow. Many Thanksby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hello! I happen to have a 40mm x 10mm 12V cooling fan in my possesion. I know absolutely diddly about wiring... so i was wondering, would it be possilbe to simple connect the extra can to the circuit board for power?? Not really bothered about being able to control it, would just like it running constantly... If not i think i will just replace, are tehre any mods for a 10mm thick cooling fan outby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Eeek, what temperature are you printing at? (heatbed & hotend) I was recommended on here, to caibrate Z axis by sliding a 'folded' sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle. You should feel it vibrate slightly when the nozzle is a the correct height. This seems to work for me. Saying that, my 1st print looked quite like yours and i think my headbed temperature was too hot, if i remember corby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Great stuff Polymath. wanted to print some bridge over the weekend but had no idea where to start with temperatures. Hows the strength? half tempted to save my samples until i need to print something indestructible..by 88Zombies - Ormerod
you mean the leds are on but the cant connect with the USB? If so mine does that some times. I take the SDcard out and put it back in. plug the wires back in and seems to connect... can be a bit tempremental in connecting. I think my issue is a slightly dodgy USB wire.by 88Zombies - Ormerod
@DC42, that's incredible. Didn't think that was possible with an ormerod. What is the bridge speed you use? Mine struggles to print a 5mm bridge (at 175°c )by 88Zombies - Ormerod
ordered some myslef the other day, couldn't resist at that price. cheaper as chips.by 88Zombies - Ormerod
has anyone tried this stuff?! [3dfilaprint.com]by 88Zombies - Ormerod
... sorry just solved this myself... WD40...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
I've been meanign to replace the z motor gears for a little while now as the zaxis has become fairly noisy. I just did a print which totally bodged up because halfway through the zaxis stopped moving upward but carried on printing. So I've just changed to Iamburny's lovely herring bone gears, seem to work great. but it turns out the issue wasnt the gears... instead the motor really struggles lby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Nope didn't work, did the same as before As soon as I click print it, the feed tries to move (retract I think) before it's even attempted to heat. There is a seriously loud sqealing sound. Then I panic as it sounds like the printer is going to blow up so I jump to switch off at the mains.. This happened with both the geodes attached above.. really want to print off cura, can't get decent enouby 88Zombies - Ormerod
hey again, thanks for all the input created the g-code KP reccomended i should try... only thing is, through force of habbit when i opened Cura today and there was an update available (14.03), i clicked ok and installed only to realise after it may cause problems with the plugins created for this... -.- .. such a melon sometimes... before i opened the new version of Cura, I dragged the; currenby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hello! Only just read through this thread, what a good idea! If you have any left or are ordering another batch I would really like one too. paypal is ok for me, shippment would be UK. would be much appreciated.by 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hello! One issue I had a couple of days ago, I was doing a print when I something came up which meant had to leave the house.. my house is... fairly flamable, combined with ocd and slight paranoia, I don't like leaving the printer running while I'm out or asleep. Not so much while it's printing, but more the fact the PSU continure running after the print is complete. Can any one reccomend any idby 88Zombies - Ormerod
oooo I shall install this tonight DC42. what is an "absolute extruder move"?? currently using your 057R and is working great btw, it's much appreciatedby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Boom! that would explain why, (after about an hour searching through just about every folder) i still couldn't find it. thanks again Ray, i'll have a hunt for .cura this evening!!by 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hi KP, Ah thank you! I will give that a go tonight (sorry late reply, busy weekend). No im using Cura to create the Gcode then printing the gcode from proterface. I'll post the G-code as soon as i get home. Hi Cash, Ah i think that could be where the problem is occuring... I did try to find a cura foulder but can't seem to find it anywhere! i looked in 'library', 'applications'... tried searchby 88Zombies - Ormerod
hello! trying to 'upgrade' to Cure 14.01 as i've heard it does a much better job of supports that slic3r.. havning a few problems though. (I'm working on a Mac for the record) ive read through the forum for tips and instructions. 1. I downloaded the plugin Cash and KP have kindly done but i dont know if im using this correctly... i have dragged all the contents of the folder; current profile.iby 88Zombies - Ormerod
went with 3Dfilaprint in the end, couldn't be happier; fast delivery decent price nicely packaged (even came with free spare bags to put the reels in when not in use) & just done a print which came out great. thanks allby 88Zombies - Ormerod
apologies i should have been clearer.. the labeled overhang did have a support underneath. it that has been removed in the image. The underside off the support for the overhang actually looked quite well formed (cun upload a pic later) but the touching face of the model looks really deformed. Yes i had to use a small tool to flatten two sides of a curling where deformation has occured. still camby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hello! so i tried my first overhang + bridge yesterday. the bridge was ok, although the material was a little difficult to remove (as it was in a very thin gap) the overhang however didn'tr eally turn out that great... (image attached) it was done at a 0.1mm layer height. It almost looked as thought it failed to bridge a very small gap, not too sure though The print seemed to recover once it reby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hi DC, Apologies late replying, had a weekend away from the computor + printer at the request of the other half. -.- 1. Affraid i didn't realise there was another update! i downloaded your firmware quite a while ago and was waiting for the right time to install. 2. No i load the setbed and then type G32 as I use pronterface, if i was to put G32 at the end of my setbed g-code, would this allow tby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Where should I buy PLA?? Getting to the point where i'm running low on PLA! Very tempting to buy off RS again, but it is VERY expensive... Found some UK suppliers on amazon, not very hard to find. but all are lacking on reviews... What sort of things should i look for? Is it a bad idea to go for one of these amazon suppliers or doesnt it matter too much?? I thought i saw a similar thread oby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Sorry late replying, Didnt get much of a chance to print over the weekend. I havn't yet had a chance to try the cube wall thickness test as i was having some trouble with teh Zprobe and zaxis gears. however, last night I tried to print IamBurny's herringbone zgears as i'm getting worried mine are making a fair bit of noise at the moment (out of curiosity i set the extrusion multiplier to 0.9) Theby 88Zombies - Ormerod