Hello DC, not a problem.. 1. file: M557 P0 X60 Y-10 file: M557 P1 X60 Y170 file: M557 P2 X226 Y170 file: M557 P3 X226 Y-10 I noticed that the Y axis can't go to minus figures on axis-homing or manual movement (after reading about grinding i understand the reasoning behind this). It can still reach these positions when running the G32 command after loading the setbed.g so i figured it would be oby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Just updated my firmware (to dc42's 57q)... when printing now the nozzle seems to extrude about 1cm above the heatbed. I've tried homing Zaxis then droping the nozzle until it is just above the headbed and using a G92 Z0 command. I then reun my setbed.g file as usual and go to print but still it extrude about 1cm above the heat bed. I've also tried recalibrating the Z-probe and put the data intby 88Zombies - Ormerod
wow! really well described answer there ray thank you! been trying to give it a go today but having a couple (presumably unrelated) problems since updating the firmware...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
really sorry but i'm the epitome of a 3D printing noob.. how do I set the temp manually before i print? should I just use pronterface and drop the nozzle temp after the 1st couple of layers? or do i ammend the start of the gcode file? ; layer_height = 0.24 ; perimeters = 1 ; top_solid_layers = 4 ; bottom_solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = 0 ; perimeter_speed = 30 ; infill_speed = 30 ; travel_speeby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Just installed the new firmware, a big thank you dc42 for your time and effort creating this, i've read good things. One issue I've found (it might not be related) when i go to home my Zaxis to start the Z probe. it wont go to the set position of X60 Y-1..................... Sorry just read page 2 of the thread, all explained...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
boom, thank you!!! will give this a whirl!! really appreciate the helpby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Wow thank you! that was really in depth, just what i need by the sounds of things. Would you happnin to have a simple cube stl/g-code i could use? I would draw one up myself but im on a friends laptop so i am programless. This is also the reason i havn't yet installed the new firmware but i think i'm just going to bite the bullet on that an install tonight if I can. many many thanks, i've readby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Awesome, that's my kinda gear replacement. More for the printing list this weekendby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Do I need to do any recalibration to the Zaxis settings after adding these gears? Same question to the extrusion gears Looks like some really good work, thank you! and thanks for the slic3r settings, i'll give those a whirl over the weekend!by 88Zombies - Ormerod
DC42; It is at a slight angle (i think the photo 'P4' exaggerates this angle slightly) but I assumed this was to act as a suspension on the nozzle, just in case it lowered too much on the Z-Axis. I thought I fixed this yesterday but looking that the photo it looks as though it's fallen out of place again! I was considering slipping a hacksaw blade along the x-axis as suggested in the 'troublesby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Those sound like good ideas! I didnt think it would still extrude at 170, I will deff try this. The 0.95 extrusion may be the ticket, less is more. hopefully. It is strange, watching it print there just seems to be too much extruded when it loops back on it's self at the end of the gear spokes. But I cant tell wether it is extruding too much on the gear-tips or if the tips are curling upwards thby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Ok, so had another go last night.. images attached. Pretty much exactly the same thing happened. Extruder temp:190 Heat bed: 60 extrusion multiplier: 1 layer thickness: 0.2 I made sure the cooling fan option was on fan speed minimum: 45 could it be having trouble because it's an overhang? i didn't think this was the issue as it seems to have troubple printing all around the gear even where thby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Brill, thanks all for your advice. I ended up striping the nozle yesterday and by shoving a couple of washers next to the MDF strip managed to lower the nozle a couple of mm. Did a print yesterday with a nice amount of clearance from the Zprobe and fan. I'm going to try printing the fan ducts over the weekend, can't wait AH, hadn't thought about blocking the fan ducts.. i'm having a little warby 88Zombies - Ormerod
mine did that too, it seemd to ok when I actually went to print though Does the Z axis move when the nozzle follows the circular motion?by 88Zombies - Ormerod
Eeep!!! sorry the 2.4 & 1.2 were both typos, i've changed that! the slic3r layer thickness was set to 0.24 to clarify. yes i'm fairly certain the feed calibration is set correctly. Did a couple of tests to confirm this. The filament is set to 1.75 which i beleve is correct I'm not sure of the extrusion multiplier off the top of my head. I will confirm that when i get back tonight but i knowby 88Zombies - Ormerod
I would like to, only I have problems printing two components at once... especially these gears that curl up at the edges i have another thread on this problem... I will do another test tonight with a lower temperated. I will try also try to do another with a seperate fan directed at the print, have read online that this may help set the corners quicker to prevent an upwards curvature. what sby 88Zombies - Ormerod
as in the extruding is too hot? I set the heatbed to 60 for the first layer and i believe it went down to 54 after that. What should I set the slic3r cooling to? there are the default settings enabled, I havn't ammended anything on the cooling...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
Probably a stupid question but... Is my nozzle too high?? I've noticed there is barely any clearance between the bottom of the fan enclosure & the IR sensor. If there is even the slightest bit of curling upwards which there as been on recent gear prints they parts mentioned tend to catch the print on one side. they also catch if I try to print more than one component at once. Should I....;by 88Zombies - Ormerod
OK, so i did another gear print but sat and watched this time, I now know what is causing the poor print on one side, but dont know how to prevent this... (i tried printing at 0.24, think I'm going to keep to this thickness for the time being, thanks for the advice ) The gears are curling upwards as show in the image attached. When the nozles goes to print on top of an upward curling spoke, iby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Yes, i've been trying to print at 1.2, is that not correct then, should it be thicker? woops what thickness would you recommend? The extruder is at 200-205, im printing in PLA. I'm currently using the 57A firmware, i'm going to update to yours just as soon as I get my laptop back. I will have to check the thermistor is central, that is a good theory to the 1sided print. Will have to check thatby 88Zombies - Ormerod
ah that was the thread i saw a while ago, yes I'm going to pick some of those up next time i swing by wilkinsons! looks a lot more professionalby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hello The printer is a tad temperamental recently... It seems to print extremely bubbly/stringy between layers. This tends to occur mostly on the non motor side of the Y axis. I have changed the retraction rate to 4mm and experimented moving it as high as 5mm & 6mm I have changed the layer thickness to 1.2mm and again experimented with both slightly faster and slower prints than the defaulby 88Zombies - Ormerod
seen a couple of posts about the clips catching, I'm sure most have done this/ thought of this but in case not... just pinched the top metal lever and pulled out once in place. this seems to work for me (i say work, i still cant print to any sort of quality)by 88Zombies - Ormerod
I will do this, i was just hoping to print something now and i've moved to a mac laptop which isn't mine... the page opens up just there are no options...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
so I broke my laptop.... on the bright side I get to use the webinterface funtion! worked great 1st time but now when i type in the IP into google chrome it doesn't give the "print" option things at the top screen shot attached.... any thoughts??? there is the password login at the bottom but it doesn't work... any help much appreciated!!!by 88Zombies - Ormerod
I've been having a few issues trying to print the Ormerod STL files; The ptiner loosing connection midprint trying to print 15mm about the heatbed etc Last night i tried another test tho, which has lead me to believe it may be the gcode files im printing from rather than the ormerod... I tried printing the snow man and it worked no problem (except the fact it looks more like Mr Blobby than Mr Frby 88Zombies - Ormerod
Ok so I've built the ormerod... i did the ormaxis prints, worked great with the odd glitch. But I've just gone to print the ormerod large-gear stl file and it always messes up... either the nozzle pritns way too high or it just stops midprint... heres what i did, am I creating and printing the g-code files correctly; 1. I open proterface/slic3r settings/ (i have the ormerod-0.5 settings loaded)by 88Zombies - Slic3r
THIS LOOK AMAZING! in even more of a hurry to get me ormerod working now! >.<by 88Zombies - Ormerod
don't know if it's worth mentioning but.... I noticed this morning, one of the LEDs was flashing very dimly and slowly in the left-enclosure which the PSU is connected to. It was the LED on the right. I just found this strange as the PSU was pluged in but swithed off on the back... the LED turned off when I unplugged the PSU from the mains...by 88Zombies - Ormerod
Hi Ray, I'll give it another couple of attempts tonight and then try the dc42 firmware... failing that, it may be time to try checking my wiring which i thought was A-OK or giving the MAC a turn at printing... Hi Kim, yes I print straight from the SD card, did read about lagging when using the USB cable that can show through in prints.. saying that, that the moment i have no prints to show 0.0by 88Zombies - Ormerod