110 all the time. Don't turned off. You might experiment with lowering it a bit, but may risk delamination. I keep it not only at 110, but also add a 200 watts bulb close to the part I'm printing, I had never suffered from warping or delamination. My 2 cents.by ggherbaz - General
It's not free.. Very expensive. Unless you are an student and request an student license, you will have to pay big bucks for it, or like me that happens to have a good friend that let me use his.by ggherbaz - Printing
If you look at the image I attached, you might be able to see what I was talking about the imperfections on some STL files, if you look at the base of the original file and you compared with the one I generated you can see the difference in smoothness, also the way that the circles are made is completely different. sure enough it is not the reason of your problems, but definitely reduce quality aby ggherbaz - Printing
Ok, few questions: The STL file you sent me was the one for the smaller part? The dimensions you gave me end up in a thinner part, so I assumed was radius instead of diameter? the top part, you mention 2mm but original STL looks taller? Original STL shows 4 knobs, while the taller one in your photo have only 3? Any way, here it is the file I made with Inventor (3 knobs instead of 4) If it neeby ggherbaz - Printing
If you give me the dimensions I can do a new stl for you and you can test it to see if improve.by ggherbaz - Printing
One thing that might be important too, did you designed the part or did you downloaded from somewhere? What software did you or the person that designed used? If the original STL file has issues your slicer will translate those issues into your printed part.by ggherbaz - Printing
Sorry, one last thing. Lower your temperature, you are printing too hot. And maybe the lights on the picture are deceiving me but looks like the temperature is fluctuating between layers? You have darker segments and the light ones. That can results in awful prints.by ggherbaz - Printing
Few things: 0.15 still little high but maybe acceptable, I normally used 0.102. 0.3 for first layer is risky if your built plate is not 100% leveled, you need to squeeze filament into the built plate to secure the part, preventing curls and warps that will affect the rest of the print.. Do a dry test print of the part and set it slowly. See if your steppers vibrates, and pay attention to you Z axby ggherbaz - Printing
Everything that I have purchased to built my printers I bought it from Aliexpress, only once i was scammed and Aliexpress refund me on time. Be sure to get your stuff shipped via epaket or be ready for long waits. Some things might be of inferior quality but none have failed so far. Only thing though, don't buy filament from china, I have heard some really bad reviews of it.by ggherbaz - General
Droftarts, you can use the up nozzle feature in marlin to deep the cured layer into the resin and then bring it back up to the right layer hight, I already acquired all the parts needed to built my own dlp printer, but resin price and monochrome output restrictions is holding me. Once resin price gets close to filament, then I will start assembly.by ggherbaz - General
Google these two for references: Sedgwick and Lunavast, both are top projectors and open source.by ggherbaz - General
just follow the voltage from stepper diagram. Like jbernardis said, check M119 and be sure no endstops are triggered. (I can bet that is your problem )by ggherbaz - Reprappers
A nap and 200,000 euros don't go together. Keep dreaming. Find another way to finance your laziness.by ggherbaz - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
I'm working on a fused silica (quartz) tube to replace the ss pipe, it should in theory eliminate the friction problems and it is even better insulator than ss. Not cheap though, for testing I ordered 2 pieces at $ 24.00 each already machined to my spects. I have some other parts in production (heater block and cooling block)it will take few weeks for parts starting to arrive but will give feedbaby ggherbaz - Developers
If I print something from thingiverse i usually print the first few layers and then stop an measure everything, then I scale based on real dimensions. When I design someting I usually add 0.2mm to holes and other features to cover for shrinkage.by ggherbaz - Printing
Nozzle is too far from built plate, you need 0.1 mm. 0.29 is too much. 0.42 width for a .35 nozzle is correct, a 0.21 will give you more problems. Check your steps per mm of your extruder, be sure that when you ask for 10mm extrusion your filament moves 10mm.by ggherbaz - Printing
A little advise, 35 degrees is not enough to prevent warping with ABS, put a 150-200 watts light bulb close to the part, it helps with keeping a 70 to 80 degrees ambient temperature around the part. I use this method all the time and I can keep my built area about 90 to 100 and I have never suffered delamination.by ggherbaz - Printing
One more thing, check your belts it's sound they are loose. A tight belt most likely would break the printed part than loose steps.by ggherbaz - Printing
If when laying the top layer after the infill your filament looks glassy and whitish, you are going too fast.by ggherbaz - Printing
You need to be more extensive in your details but sound like you are trying to print too fast for your extrusion temperature.by ggherbaz - Printing
I use 70 degrees for pla, it is important for the first few layers to stick right, after that you can lower it to 50 or turned off. Don't waste your money with blue tape or kapton just apply a coat of purple stick glue. Most of the problems with lifting are more related to first layer hight than any other thing. I used S3D and if i set a first layer to 75 to 80% I could print small parts withoutby ggherbaz - Printing
The dotted outer skirt shows that either you are too far of the built plate or you are extruding too little or too cold.by ggherbaz - Printing
The outer perimeter looks weird, what temperature you set for PLA ? Layer delamination indicates low temperature. Check your extrusion rate, your temperature and first layer hight. Use purple Elmer glue and use as maximum 70 for the bed temperature.by ggherbaz - Printing
Sounds like your temperature is too high, you can add a start g-code to extrude more filament before the actual print on small parts.by ggherbaz - General
You need to select option 5 for the thermistor if not mistaken. Some people have problems with PLA some not, i was never capable of printing PLA with my v5, but it is my standard one for ABS. Like any reprap thing, it need some tweaking to get it to work right.by ggherbaz - General
I come from a 3rd. World country and I know how bright the future of 3d printing can be, a printed prosthetic may help some, I agree, but it not the real solution for the problem at the present time.by ggherbaz - General
It is not my intention to start a debate her, but let me clarify my point. I worked in a hospital back in my country of origin and saw many kids with missing limbs, a kid likes to play and enjoy life without limitations. Explaining a kid what he can an cannot with a plastic printed prosthetic it's impossible, once they know they can walk they will run and play football (soccer). A wooden prosthetby ggherbaz - General
Now, just to clarify something, I think the future of 3d printing is in bio-printing so instead of printing a prosthetic arm or leg or fingers, you would be able to print new bones muscle tissue and skin tissue and surgically reconstruct any missing limb or organ. But that will always required trained personnel and qualified technicians.by ggherbaz - General
Sorry, but it doesn't come out of my mind an African kid running on a gravel road with a printed prosthetic leg. With current reprap printers it wouldn't last a day, and it can hurt more than helps. It is a noble idea, but not yet fisable. This type of elements are more suitable for high end commercial printers capable of printing metals or standard injection molding.by ggherbaz - General
For proof of concept (prototype) 3d printing is a cheap and ideal system, you can experiment with designs without limitation other than built size. For final product you would still required standard manufacturing systems as 3d printed objects will lack the strength and durability required unless you utilizes really expensive printers that will defeat the purpose of use in 3rd. World countries.by ggherbaz - General