It's plausible that you burned the FET on the RAMPS causing it to always stay on. Double-check with a multimeter that the bed FET is not conducting (drain to source) when no voltage is applied to it. Make sure you do this when the printer is off. If it is, you need to either replace it or replace the RAMPS.by anvoice - Reprappers
Question 1: did you use a metal screwdriver to adjust the pots while the printer was powered on? Question 2: did you see where the flame came out of? Was it the stepper driver or something else? Without seeing the damage it's difficult to help. You could have destroyed the driver, RAMPS, or the arduino board itself. Try troubleshooting incrementally. Make sure everything is powered off. Then conby anvoice - Printing
240 does seem a bit hot for ABS, did you try printing at slightly lower temps? The filament should not receive more heat if printing faster, in fact it should be the other way around (in extreme cases you might not have time to melt it all the way through). May be something else going on, e.g. a thermistor that's loose and showing a lower temp than you actually have = more heat. I'd try reducingby anvoice - Printing
А крутит при ручной подаче пластика? Типа <<выдави 10мм>>. Можно попробовать поменять местами сами моторы: поставить новый на экструдер и посмотреть будет ли крутить. Если нет, проблема наверняка не в моторе.by anvoice - Russia RepRap User Group
Hi, Wish to upgrade from ramps to the duet wifi, but wondering if the duet supports other LCDs besides the panelDue? Hoping to use a third party screen with the board if possible, e.g. the raspberry pi lcd touchscreen. Thanks.by anvoice - Duet
Thanks, makes sense. One last question for the moment: you mentioned I think that Nema23's are overboard and noisier than Nema17. I'd like to get the 0.9 degrees/step variety though, and those just don't come with a very high torque (62Ncm is the best I could find) for Nema17. Would it make sense to get the Nema23s because of the 0.9 degree/angle stepping? I'm guessing if I align everything perfby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
I'd like to see how that calculator solves a 50% size difference on one axis, or see a loose belt accounts for that much. As far as the method being a bandage solution, it's only one if the steps/mm are already perfect. My guess is they're way off because as I said, loose belt doesn't account for that much inaccuracy.by anvoice - Printing
What about the ABEC grade of the bearings you use? Supposedly the higher grade ones have lower runout and introduce less friction. Or is that fairly insignificant? I can find ABEC 9 grade 608ZZs but no grade information on the F609ZZs. Also some ceramic bearings which supposedly deform less under load.by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
First, check your steps/mm in the Marlin firmware. A good starting point is multiplying whatever number is there right now for each axis by the ratio of the model dimension by the actual dimension. So for the axis that should have been 30mm but came out 20mm, multiply the steps/mm value by 30/20 = 1.5. Same for the other value. Then print a test object (a small thin-walled box is a good idea so aby anvoice - Printing
Curious about what people are using for pulleys: I see some smooth pulleys on ebay, but the max bore diameter is 5mm. Is it fine to use 608 bearings directly, perhaps with some plates on the sides to prevent the belt from sliding? I feel that the 8mm bore will be better for stability. Belts are another issue altogether: there's a ton out there, including Kevlar reinforced, etc. I'm thinking of gby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
QuoteSatorCodex But lapping only take elbow grease, gritpaper. Gives a good exercise and produce a better result than grinding. Flat surface and you are set. Thanks, I learned something new. I'd definitely be willing to give that a go, though probably on a machined surface as otherwise it'll likely take forever. There happens to be a service with a large mill around so I'll have the top of myby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDutch_Razor Also a note on the X axis, you have a floating linear guide there which does not create a stiff gantry. For linear guides, a stiff gantry can even out errors in the individual linear guides, so I would personally go for a tooling plate the width of the Y carriages, then mount the guide on there. What do you mean by floating linear guide in this case? It will be bolted down at botby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for the detailed advice! I'll definitely revise my design with that in mind. Do you think the levelers for the XY stage are necessary? As you mention as long as XY is orthogonal to Z, it's fine. Wouldn't it also make sense to fine-adjust Z relative to XY?by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Do you have some fresh ABS to try? I recently had an underextrusion issue with PETG that seems to have gone away when I switched to a fresh roll, and I believe moisture might have been the problem. You could also try drying your ABS for a couple of hours on your heated bed.by anvoice - Printing
Yep, the more I read the more it seems that my idea working would be somewhat of a miracle. Perhaps I can find a milling service that has a large enough mill to machine the full frame? Otherwise I might try out an intelligent suggestion someone gave me recently of using a large piece of tooling plate and cutting the coreXY stage out of that.by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
What about taping a photoresistor to the wall exactly where the laser spot hits? Then you could measure even small deviations in magnitude of the light shining on it, though I doubt you could get exact angle deviations. Might still be enough to tell you if there is tilt though.by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
How about using a small quadcopter with some double-sided tape and the object mounted to it? Crash it into the ceiling, and you have your reference object.by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Yep, I really like your build. Since I'm not going the aluminum extrusion route that closes some doors and opens others. I also feel the cost of having a huge plate cut for the coreXY will be rather prohibitive. Otherwise I'd do just that. As is I think I'll chance having to rework it several times before I get the alignment right. No experimentation, no innovation I guess. The local makerspaceby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
QuoteOrigamib You can buy spacers and washers of all sizes, so once it is built you can use a selection of 100/50/10 micron spacers to align the subframe at different points. That sounds pretty good.by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist It doesn't sound like a reliable way to ensure that all the guide rails are aligned. I think that making the main frame as a fixture to hold an XY subframe and a Z subframe is going to be more reliable because it allows adjustment of the relative positions and angles between the subframes. Drilling holes or even milling slots for screws in the main frame members is a loby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
So thinking about the alignment problem: I was machining the rails that will become the top of the frame flat for the guide rails, then drilling the holes and assembling the rail system (including x axis), after which I would invert it and make sure it runs smoothly. Then I could tack-weld it together and make sure it still runs smoothly: if not, break it off, repeat until it does, finish the welby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Quoteprot0typ1cal anvoice, Regarding your frame, if you make the corner spars taller, you can still mount your CoreXY stuff inside the 90 via adjustable brackets so machining is not required, and keeps your top flat for the enclosure. If tall enough, the filament spool will also be inside, no escape for the warm air. I think DD said he is doing this for his Trump tower. Sry DD, no offense intendby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'd talk to the people at the makerspace about what you're doing before you weld the frame together. Milling machines have limited addressable volume and your printer frame might exceed the limits if you weld it together before milling. OTOH, if you mill it before you weld it you're right back to the alignment problem you wanted to fix by milling the frame. This sorby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for the (mostly critical?) input everyone. I have a heavy-duty table that I'll probably use for the printer, so I'm not sure yet if I'll be putting casters on it. I realize I'll have difficulty aligning the XY mechanism, but it's a challenge I'm willing to take up. I feel a welded steel frame is a really elegant solution provided I can get reasonable alignment. The printer bed size is 14by anvoice - CoreXY Machines
I can always remove an extra block and test to see if print quality deteriorates. The reason I have on the y 2 right now is to combat possible torque forces on the H-bot design. As I mentioned, I want the best print quality possible. As a newbie engineer, I'm making a lot of assumptions, but I don't see any way around that. As far as the pulleys go, I think I like that idea. Basically add to thby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Hello everyone, While I have not yet finished my first corexy, I naturally felt the need to start designing my second. You know how it goes. The first machine is probably nothing to look at, as I started building it as a complete novice. The second may be a little more interesting, mainly because I decided to over engineer it to the max. Attached is a rough sketch of a rough design of the printeby anvoice - CoreXY Machines
Did you try upping the stepper driver voltage? May be that the y motor lacks current on some parts of the print.by anvoice - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteobewan If you home Z and then send a G1 Z100 does z actually move 100mm if it stops short then maybe your layer shift is due to the nozzle dragging on the previous layer It doesn't seem to stop short. Plus I see the z motors move on the problematic layer, so I doubt it's dragging through the print.by anvoice - Printing
A bit more detail would help. Does it cut out in the same exact spot in the print, or "approximately" halfway through? Does it get hot? What if you try to print slower, or print a small calibration object?by anvoice - Printing
The problem is the layers are identical, but the shift happens anyway at some constant height. I'll try swapping the drivers again as you suggest, but I want to at least get a few good prints first. Frankly worried about breaking it again now that it works.by anvoice - Printing