There is some information here about the connectors A common connector used on Stepper Motors is the JST-PH Seriesby orictosh - For Sale
Thanks for this. I have just added the above statement to my config.h file and now have 2 extruders which feed the correct amount when asked. Maybe someone could update the wiki g-code statement to show the colon method of setting up 2 extruders; one direct drive, one gearedby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotechrishamm Well, you can specify the number of steps per mm for each extruder drive by separating each argument using a colon like M92 E426.871:95.055 You have to specify the E steps per mm all at once every time you set them. It isn't possible to set them for a specific drive only. Thanks chrishamm, Looks like if I reverse the values in that statement and place it inside the config.h so tby orictosh - Ormerod
Upon my Duel extruder Ormerod 2 I have an original geared extruder and a direct drive extruder The steps value is 426.871 for the geared one and 95.055 for the direct one, when asked to extrude 100mm. Does M92 E support another extruder, so in my config.h file file I can have E0(steps value) & E1(steps value) ? I would like to be able to set-up each one with the required steps_per_mm valueby orictosh - Ormerod
Bought 750grams of PVA Advanced made by Orbi-Tech for £75 It works well thoughby orictosh - General
Quoteayudtee Thanks Davek0974. May I ask for a copy of the stl file for the printed part? If you were to make replacement Y axis rod holders in aluminium for the Ormerod 2 I am interested. Hi Thanks for your order, Please find attached the file for holding the bearing in place. The part will need a M3 x 18mm hex screw and should line up with current nut/washer cut-out upon the metal part neaby orictosh - Ormerod
Quoteheauxmbru I just replaced the hot end and got everything set up and started a simple print to see if all is good. Not a chance!!! Now the PLA is just sticking to the nozzle with nothing sticking to the bed. My temperature was set to 200 for the first layer with the bed heat at 70. I thought maybe it was too high so I changed to 180 but it stuck to the nozzle just the same. I'm curious whatby orictosh - Reprappers
Has your original MDF print bed support assembly become tired and worn out around the fixing holes? Then it's time to upgrade to an Aluminium one, it's a straight swap out for an Ormerod 2 Shipping to US starts from £11.00 ($14), Europe £10.90 (Euro 12.75) and there is free shipping within the UK when you spend more than £25 Any questions? Just place a comment below or contact me via the weby orictosh - For Sale
There is a better design of the x-carriage which runs the bearing upon the back edge. Don't think it supports dc42's sensor board. Running the bearing upon the back with the original x-rib might also cause problems with too much yaw as it moves up and down the x-axis. Upon my set-up I have a bolt pushing in towards the rib from the side placing pressure upon the bearing bolt so giving some adjby orictosh - Ormerod
Hi, Your printer's firmware marlin waits for g-code from the serial USB connection before performing the required move. The remote controller with the 6 buttons will need a MCU, such as an Arduino So it can send a g-code via the serial (TX RX) pins to printer's serial connection upon the ramps board to that MCU, which controls the stepper driver, which then moves the motor. You might need toby orictosh - Reprappers
Here is the step by step guide that I go though when about to start a print. 1) Take the filament reel, and trim off the end so it square. 2) Turn on main power to printer, ensure that main fan come on, if not turn off and check connections. 3) Set the hot-end and bed temp suitable for the filament being used. 4) If the print head is near/touching the print bed then move it up 20mm, so able to gby orictosh - Reprappers
Yes, all the design files for the Ormerod are on reprap pro's git hubby orictosh - Ormerod
Hi Oliver, The first thing I would do is update the firmware from 0.78c to the latest Reprap firmware 1.11-ch further details on how to do this are here With a duet set-up the SD card needs to stay in the machine when powered. The printers settings are done by editing the config.g file in the sys folder upon the SD card rather than from pronterface. If the printer is off-line the controllerby orictosh - Reprappers
Hi, I'm based in the UK, upon the other side of the world. I'm able to print these for you if needed. The package of the printed parts will be light in weight so postal costs could be quite low, might take some time for you to get them. Have you tried your local maker spaces or Angus of Maker's Muse, he is based in Australia so closer to you than me? Regards Chrisby orictosh - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Quotedmould Sounds like your IR sensor was permanently triggered. Maybe you had the printer in bright Sunlight or there was an object on the bed? Dave I would agree with that; As it happened when I put a light above the printer and the x axis wouldn't move. Also happens if the printer is placed in direct sunlight and needs to shaded from that sunlight to home the x axis. It just thinks it's aby orictosh - Ormerod
I found when calibrating steps values it's better to use a longer distance say about 100mm rather than going smaller. Also check the measurements on the corners of squares as I had problems with circles being oval and I found that my X axis has too much roll as it moved up and down it's axis.by orictosh - Reprappers
Quote79dusan Hi all, I made a significant progress over the last weekend. Leveling the x axis by adjusting z motors with digital caliper has helped greatly as far as the entire bed leveling process goes. I also leveled the bed in a way that paper test was perfect in all 4 corners. Next thing I need to do is to get even more drag on the paper (either by raising the bed or by setting a z offset -by orictosh - Reprappers
Quotebme orictosh@ Can you explain to me what you mean by software? Could it be something wrong in his configuration file. He has enabled EEPROM SET1? Software is code, scripts, apps, protocols (HTTP,TCP/IP, FTP SMTP), you can't see it, printer firmware; something that makes the hardware usable, digital files of music and designed items. Hardware is the stuff you can touch, see, hold, motors,by orictosh - Reprappers
Quotebme Did you change anything in your config file? Can you attache the configuration file again? The file which is in your atmega2560 now. Here is the image of your config file: @BME Doesn't need to change the config files, as it software and he has moved the z axis end stop (hardware) to it's correct position. @79dusan You don't need to keep homing z for consistency, it's homed at the starby orictosh - Reprappers
If you read the about page of the site, it shows a photo of sally, she was a director of RepRap Pro Ltd which was closed before Christmas 2015 The RepRap Pro website is also still up hosting the documentation for their machines. Also has links to other sites for parts.by orictosh - General
The way you have described the X axis homing, is correct and working. It should be the same upon the Z axis. If you hold down (Closed) the z axis end stop and at the same time send a M119 to the printer; Does it show triggered? If not, check the wiring If yes, then move the z axis end stop so it's a short distance away from the printed part. Then home z and be ready with the power switch in caby orictosh - Reprappers
An update after watching your videos when the nozzle is at the home position, grab upon paper 0.2mm the lever of the z end stop switch (shown in the above link) should be just touching the printed part and show HIGH when triggered when printer is sent a M119 much the same as the x axis end stop If the end stops are triggered "all the time" the axis won't move. When triggered it should show hby orictosh - Reprappers
A mosfet similar to the one used to control the heated bed/hot end would work. It needs a small RMS value on the gate pin to be switched by 5v and will be able to handle a large load. An 2N7000 is a nice one (Not an actual hot end/heat bed one but has reasonable current loading handing requirements) I used one in a "soft power" switch for main power from battery on a RC Car project The 2N7000 wby orictosh - General
The metal frame of 3D Printers should be attached to GND (ground, negative or earth connection) and the main power cable fused, so in the case of a short, the fuse is the only thing that lets out the "magic smoke" Any voltage (5, 12, 24, 110, 220-240, 440 volts) just loves to be grounded. IE go to earth aka it says "take the path of least resistance" upon it travels around the circuit I knowby orictosh - General
Hi Chrishamn, I upgraded to 1-11 ch firmware and the web control html 1.11 JS: 1.11 upon my duel ormerod 2. I'm having issues; I have logged a issue with the web interface upon git hub, as there seems to be a bug when using the control all part upon the interface. It seems only to turn of two items (T2 and bed) rather than three. I another issue that I have, All axis are homed and at zero, Iby orictosh - Duet
Hi, Yes you can put those statements within a config.h file Here is a snippet from mine M301 H1 P20 I0.5 D100 ; Set PID Parameters ;M301 P9 I6 D50 ; Set PID Parameters ;M301 I2.0 ; Set PID Parameters ;M301 P5.0 ; Set PID Parameters ;M301 D50 ; Set PID Parameters The ones with a semicolon in front are not read, just there when I was testing each value, wasn't aware thatby orictosh - Ormerod
Hi, Cura is the printer's controller not the tool used for loading the firmware. You need to use the Ardunio IDE Download and install the above, then open the main firmware file; which might be called marlin.ino within the IDE there will be other files open in the tabs there is also a file called configuration.h In which the main settings for you printer are and can be adjusted if needed. Plby orictosh - General
The quick set nozzles used in Ormerod 2 Kits use 316 Stainless Steelby orictosh - General
Hi, You will need to send it the g-code M302 allow cold extrudesby orictosh - General
Yes, I was aware of that being the same formula. Didn't understand the result I was getting from the formula in item 6 due to it not having the brackets shown and the old_steps value at the front. If I was able to edit that page I would edit it to show the brackets and use the rule "workout the sum in the brackets first", then times the result using the items outside them which gives a steps valby orictosh - Reprappers