I am running the typical 12V all around Ramps 1.4 setup. All my parts are rated for 12V, except my heater resistor is rated for 24V. I want to slap on a 12V to 24V DC Step-up after D10 output.... so ONLY the heater resistor recieves the 24V boost. Anyone tried this? Thoughts?by yoUmake-3d - General
Okay, thanks i will try this!by yoUmake-3d - General
Thanks grat. That link explained a lot. Still can not get the Nema 17's to work rightby yoUmake-3d - General
I also have no idea what the jumpers do under the drivers. I installed all of them but if anyone has a brief discription of what they do that would help also. Thanks!by yoUmake-3d - General
what do the jumpers do under the drivers? Do all 3 always need to be installed?by yoUmake-3d - RAMPS Electronics
I was using Nema 14 on my last build and I had the steppers running smooth. I just switched to a new build and carried over the same programing on a new Ramps, with Nema 17 motors now. The Z-Axis works fine, however the x and y axis motors were not moving but sometimes they move very fast and shake and rattle. I have tried: 1) Tuning the potientiometer on top of the Driver. (This made the motorby yoUmake-3d - General
I would like to add that the U.S. does sell metric sizes. Of course places like home depot or Lowes does not keep them in stock. However, if these rods are only being used for structural support and do are not used as a lead screw you can get by with imperialby yoUmake-3d - Reprappers
DonaldJ, Thanks for the Bronzefill color idea. I have made some adjustments to the buildplate. Basically, I just added a second platform that sits about an inch higher than the first with a 4-adjustment points (one at each corner of the actual build plate.) The plate is fairly stable. I am using 080 AL and may make this a bit thicker in the final model to reduce material flex at the edges. I amby yoUmake-3d - Reprappers
I can relate with you! I have been there and had the same issue. First test to find the location of the problem (either the hot end or the Ramps) 1) Turn on the printer and send a print file via SD. Using a multimeter check the voltage accros D10. If you get 12V: Good. Its not the Ramps. 2) Remove the Hot End Heater and connect it directly to a power supply and see if it gets hot without burningby yoUmake-3d - Reprappers
Thank you, yes I am new to the forum. The 2 post were mistake. I was going for a steam punk look. Also, the steppers are sticking out, however, I believed the advantage of having it as a direct drive (stepper attached directly to the drive-rod would reduce any backlash in the x-y. That was the idea behind it. I could have put them closer in however the need for another belt in the system would beby yoUmake-3d - Reprappers
Hey Reprappers, I have been working on a new RepRap Design and wanted to get your thoughts before going forward.by yoUmake-3d - Reprappers
I agree with waitaki, ordinary glass that can be purchased from a hardware store is suitable. Why would we be conserned with nanometer tolerances for the heatbed when the hot end z-axis has tolerances in the 1/10th of mm scale? We wouldnt or shouldnt.by yoUmake-3d - Reprappers
So, if I could try to add some direction. It seems that this issue comes into play whenever the machine "homes" itself, correct? In that case, I would adjust the home rate settings. I would lower the Z-axis Vmax but also lower the Acceleration for homing.by yoUmake-3d - General Mendel Topics
Since I am using a smart controller my serial port is still open. Thanks for the replyby yoUmake-3d - General
Here is what I would do first, Take off the belt and rotate the pulley that slips with your hand. Rotate it throughout the entire motion that it will go (this will take numerous rototions of the pulley). While doing this, attempt to feel for any increases or decreases in force required to turn it. If you get to a point that is very difficult to turn then you may have found where the issue is. Alby yoUmake-3d - General
I am trying to connect my Ramps 1.4 controlled printer to my home network. I should have all components needed for completion, however, I can not find any past information regarding the wiring or Marlin programing. Does anyone have any information regarding this setup? I will be attempting ideas later today! Thanksby yoUmake-3d - General
Which hot end was it exactly? Are you sure it did not have a PTFE sleeve in it?by yoUmake-3d - General
Yes, I did forget reliability. So far this seems to be one of the greater struggles on my current build - Having the confidence to set it and walk away after sending a print. Thanks for the input. Cat.farmer, I see your point. It seems that speed becomes more critical as the build area increases. Afterall a huge build area would do little good without an increase in speed. Can anyone share someby yoUmake-3d - General
Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah I guess the printing of different matierials comes down to the type of hot end and how hot it can get?by yoUmake-3d - General
Yep. I had the same problem before. You need to invert the logic of the endstopby yoUmake-3d - General
I would be sure you are turning off all power to the system after uploading new code. but also, what gherbas was saying was not to invert the motor axis direction but to invert the logic of the end stops. The two are separate in the config.h.by yoUmake-3d - General
Hi Everyone, I am new here. I am really glad I got into RepRap's. What do you think will be next in the reprap world? or What is most important to you when choosing a printer? Ideas: Large Print Area? Material Diversity? Glass Build Plate? Its Looks? Performance? Speed? Thanks ahead for your input.by yoUmake-3d - General