4x2 tubing will get you better prints and is what is usually used for 1,75 filament. The extra bends on the filament from the lager tube will make the extruder work a lot harder. My guess on the bump is insufficient cooling on the heat brake. It is also an indication that you might be feeding the hot end more then it can extrude.by SlowFoot - General
How long does it take to reach 198?by SlowFoot - Reprappers
Look like we might have to live with the 502 errors for a while.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
All metal hot ends are not that good with Bowden extruders as they don't agree too well with the longer retraction that is needed.by SlowFoot - General
If I got it correctly another benefit from a Bowden set up is a more even pressure in the hot end.by SlowFoot - General
QuoteCharon My apologies, I had wished to say 0.15mm nozzle! No problem I kind of figured that out. QuoteCharon I'm going to construct a small prototype based on the same concept before I construct the large machine, of course. In terms of build speed, the printer is likely to render small parts in large quantities rather than large parts in small quantities, so I'm not too worried about printby SlowFoot - Reprappers
Quotethevisad QuoteSlowFoot QuoteSmileySXT I am looking to buy the Folger Tech Kossel 2020, what a great price. I think it is a great printer with quality parts, I would just like a little more build volume. Has anyone taken the Folger Tech Kossel 2020 and expanded on the width and height by using larger 2020 beams? Out of the kit you will only be able to use the printed parts (that are OK butby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
0.015 mm nozzle? Might be hard to get enough pleasure to get anything out of it with an ordinary extruder. Also any reenforcement-fibers in the filament have to be smaller then the nozzle. Even if it is a 0.15 mm nozzle, do some testing before you start the build. For a larger printer the XY-carriage system might be lighter than the build plate. I would also recommend you to do some calculationsby SlowFoot - Reprappers
Have a talk with a official reseller for one of the three letter bearing makers (INA, SKF, FAG aso) or two, what you need is in not that extreme. And check out the Igus program, they have a lot of interesting stuff that is inexpensive too. Custom made silicone heating pads was resiliently up in another thread.by SlowFoot - General
QuoteSmileySXT I am looking to buy the Folger Tech Kossel 2020, what a great price. I think it is a great printer with quality parts, I would just like a little more build volume. Has anyone taken the Folger Tech Kossel 2020 and expanded on the width and height by using larger 2020 beams? Out of the kit you will only be able to use the printed parts (that are OK but not much more), the pulleys,by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Quoterealthor Question: if a heated bed is involved and an enclosed chamber is built around it to have 40-50deg inside for printing with plastics that require this, isn't any kind of bearing grease going to melt? As far as I know, all bearings have to have some kind of grease to properly function. You will have to use the right grease, there are a few to chose from Igus makes grease free beariby SlowFoot - General
Quoteelektrinis ............. Also, this is not a personal project, so I do not have the time for playing around assembling and tuning it. Need it delivered ready to use. ...................... Buggers, I picture a delta built with the motors on top and the effector poking out under the frame. Then you would not have to put the parts into the machine but they could pass freely under it.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Quotellamatrails Quotedavidf01 This extruder issue is driving me nuts. Here is a video showing what the extruder is doing. I'm extruding 50mm of filament in this video. I put a pencil line on the gear so you can see what it is doing. If you have aby ideas let me know. Let's break this down to keep it as simple as possible. Open pronterface and heat up the hotend to 200. On theby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
If on a tight budget you will always get a better printer for same price if you source the parts yourself. A nice thing about a delta is that there are fewer parts to source. The quality of the printed parts is the key, if they are bad you are smoked.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Try to go down a bit on the thickness of the first layer, try 0.15 mm. Also a wider extrusion width on the first layer,150-200%, can help. Have you measured the first layer and verified that it actually is 0.2 mm? Cheers!by SlowFoot - Printing
Could be some problem with the filament feed.by SlowFoot - Printing
What happen when you rerun the Y axis to zero?by SlowFoot - General
I used BuildTak for some months. I print PLA with no heat bed. and it sticks well at 0.1 - 0.2 mm for first layer as long as it is clean. Over 0.2 mm it is harder to make it stick. I probably print at lower temperatures. My temp is way off courtesy of the print kit manufacturer (off spec. thermistor)by SlowFoot - Printing
QuoteEcky You could also fill the gap with something like Bondo and then tighten it after it is set. We use Bondo a lot as temporary tooling/fixturing where I work. Better yet, use a metal filled epoxy, JB WELD is it, to make up the gap and have a stiffer frame in the end. Bake it in an oven to a temp higher that what you would see when using the part and you should be all set. Don't do this,by SlowFoot - Reprappers
..........or it simply got so hot that a magnets lost enough field to come loose.by SlowFoot - Printing
1. I have some experience with the Ultimaker-layout, A problem is that it is hard to tell if the x or the y rod will define the z plane. My Ultimaker copy shift between them. 2. The only thing you can be sure of when welding is that things will bend. Very hard to keep the accurate measures needed for a printer. 3. Steel against aluminum is a bad idea and NEVER kill one printer before the other isby SlowFoot - General
QuoteBluedragon456 ....................By putting in a angle that's a bit off would ultimately give a stonger frame. Why?by SlowFoot - Reprappers
Thanks Olaf! I was more worrying about the frame not being symmetric and straight.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
I just came to think of something else, as you have a delta printer. A slightly leaning tower can move the nozzle out of line. I made a small study on itby SlowFoot - Printing
Is there any guide how to measure the physical dimensions of the towers? As far as I can tell there are no natural references. By what it looks getting things as good as possible from the start will pay big time in the end. I have not started my build yet, some nuts have been lost in the mail i think.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Just guessing (before the morning coffee), uneven cooling (a little draft in the room) makes a high print tilt a little or maybe a temperature change in the heat bed (that you don't have (go make myself some coffee)).by SlowFoot - Printing
I played some with the simulator for mechanical errors that i made in a CAD. It is experimental and I have no way of verifying the results so no guaranties that this is correct. The printer is about standard Kossel size, I made a very brief search for drawings but could not find any so I the measures are a bit what they happened to be. Print area is about Ø200mm and rod length 245mm All errorsby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Quotecman8 Seems like theres something wrong there. The belts shouldnt touch the corner brackets Thats what I thought. I checked the instructions and it all seems correct. I'm wondering if there is something I don't know about. It seems like the pulley in the upper frame is to far towards the outside or the slider is not thick enough. Not sure what the issue is. I think my slidersby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Here are a few. Open squares are bad, open triangles are good. Sharp inner corner are usually bad. A sharp corner (in the x-y plane) is harder for a printer to handle then a rounded one. The largest flat side against the build surface is often a bad approach. They are all pretty useless unless you understand why.by SlowFoot - General