QuotePRZ Safety wise, I will be a bit concerned having an aluminium bed without insulating surface in direct contact with a heat pad, as there is no double electrical insulation and you may touch the bed. However, on my own setup the aluminium bed retainers are easily accessed by my hands and are electrically connected to the aluminium spreader, so that is not much better. I may add wood shieldsby aussiephil - Delta Machines
QuotePRZ Indeed, your parameters looks ok for the power. Maybe proportional coefficient is a bit high. Did you insulated with Kapton the heating block (that will change a bit the T parameter) ? PID control on the bed gives me a lot of improvement over bang-bang control, but our configuration is not quite comparable. Pierre, the heater block is sort of insulated, there is ceramic paper over theby aussiephil - Duet
Highly recommend these guys If they don't have what you want they will make it I installed a 1200W 500mm one under the 600mm x 8mm ATP5 cast plate Lesson from that...... make the pad nearly the same size as the bed to remove cool edges, I'm considering ordering a 600mm round one now Oh I have no real issue with the thermistor in mine..... I consistently see a simple 5 degree lower thermistorby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Well either I didn't get it or that just won't work when dealing with high power fast heating setups. Example, at step three I easily shot past 250 and reached 260 before I set it to zero again..... Hotend is a Dyzend with 300c thermistor and 24V 60w heater cartridge. The time to heat from 10c to 160c was approximately less than 20 seconds....... After reverting to what i had the day before, Iby aussiephil - Duet
Thanks David That's all makes sense and should be straight forward.... I played around this evening before you posted that. Fixed the overshoot but it oscillates more, so I'll start with your process above. When I say coil late it's by about 0.8 deg each way Yeah no tool selected first was the issue Cheers and thanks Philby aussiephil - Duet
Gents, I've read multiple things and thought I had it largely understood till I got to this from the wiki.................... RepRapFirmware (v1.09 onwards) H: Is the heater number, and is compulsory. H0 is the bed, H1 is the first hot end, H2 the second etc. P: Interprets a negative P term as indicating that bang-bang control should be used instead of PID (not recommended for the hot end, bby aussiephil - Duet
ALIVE and Printing ...... happy and relieved As it not yet enclosed and it's winter time here I've started with some PLA First thing was a simple square 150mm per side, result came out at 150.65mm each way, close enough for today Next i grabbed a bowl from thingiverse ... scaled it up by 130% and sliced it with S3D... took a few goes to dial in core settings but once I got it stuck to the beby aussiephil - Delta Machines
I'm comfortably seeing 640Kb uploads with the defualt supplied 4Gb MicroSD card. suspect this will jump a lot with a faster card Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet Firmware Version: 1.12a (2016-05-10) Web Interface Version: HTML: 1.11, JS: 1.11by aussiephil - Duet
Hi Pierre Many thanks for adding that to the Wiki, I'm good at Google searching for info but never found that diagram. I'm trying very hard to learn by research and only ask when I just can't find it or understand. The diagram I posted I just drew and just nominally put letters to the to front columns. Cheers Philby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Honestly walking down the street is likely more harmful to your health, like all things in life, reducing un-needed exposure is a good thing but stressing about it may well be more harmful than the causal factors. I say the above not to belittle or demean the issue but to hopefully to make people think outside the immediate issue.by aussiephil - General
with reprap intrinsically focused on the use of 8mm rod because that's what everyone has always done then yes they can get bendy when supporting each end only. I won't argue that linear guide is not better as it is but at often significant greater cost when bought new depending where you are in the world...... To the OP: micromake seems to have a bad reputation based on multiple posts..... howevby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 You are quite right that's what you get trying to do things from an ageing memory So to get it right both axis are Positive at Rear Right and negative at front Left. I'm getting to old and demented to do things by memory? Note to self Double check what you post before hitting the Send button Doh? no dramas I got it sorted but it could be worth editing your first reply to avoby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Doug: Ok, swapped my left right towers as i had them wired the other way, now have X moving positive to the right and negative to the left with the Z tower at the rear. All homing works. Now the Y directions is different to what you posted above with positive going to the rear. This is inline with other posts I could find this evening including one by yourself Now just want to confirm Y thoughby aussiephil - Delta Machines
To all the Delta gurus.... Running a little confused on expected X-Y movement, so as per the attached image If tower C = Z A = ?? B = ?? If X movement is 1-2 and Y movement is 3-4 Then which is the minus and plus directions? Cheers Phil IGNORE the attachment in this post, Diagram attached by PRZ shows the movement conventions.by aussiephil - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quoteaussiephil One thing I don't understand on the DWC web pages is the Machine Information tab under settings You mean the Machine Properties tab? It shows you the values that you current have set for maximum accelerations, speeds etc. which will be as you have them configured in config.g unless you have amended them since the Duet was reset, or the firmware defaults if you did not cby aussiephil - Delta Machines
QuotePRZ There is an interesting piece about belts on Shapeoko site: So, it seems nothing could replace kevlar for belt reinforcment. or , simply get larger belts or double them. RobotDigg sells wide and double pulleys for reasonable cost. Quotedougal1957 Phil Did you go with the Steel Cored GT2 belt if so What size pulley have you gone For? Reason I ask is that I put some of it on a printerby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Everything decided to arrive in time for weekend. Duet arrived Sat, thanks to Filastruder. 8mm ATP-5 Cast plate arrived Friday, thanks to CALM Aluminium, got a 610x900 offcut so have some spare 500mm 1200W heating pad arrived found some 3mm ceramic paper for thermal insulation under the bed Had some fun cutting out the plate to shape but some patience and lots of wd40 got it done. Stuck the heaby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Quotemotley Phil, Thanks for the link - I would be interested to hear how you get on - are you posting the progress somewhere? Chris Been rather slackly updating ...... need to do an update for the last few days but need to take some photo'sby aussiephil - Duet
I have just started commissioning my 1600mm tall 600 diameter bed Delta with 0.9 degree NEMA23 motors. Currently running at 24v and 1.5A set current with these 23HM22-2804S,by aussiephil - Duet
I'm sure "royal mail tracked" from the UK ensures it goes on the slow boat, the mrs gets packages from the uk normal mail faster than the poor E3D Titan took to arrive..... but it did last night along with the Nema17 they had as an option. the Nema17 weighs in at 280g. The Titan goes together pretty easy as long as you follow the instructions on the E3D wiki but one thing I'm not comfortable withby aussiephil - Delta Machines
Whilst ABS remains very much a cheap filament in comparison to things like PETG in various countries ( in my case Australia) it will remain a popular choice.... a huge pro is the easy glue joining of ABS parts and if your into painting parts then normal automotive paint techniques work really well. if PET/PETG was the same price I'd likely use it but at double what I buy ABS for it's just not goby aussiephil - General
Largely agree with DD.... however in my view the bed heater should get the bed to 110c inside 10 minutes preferable quicker and on a smaller machine even with basic enclosure setup should provide enough radiant heat for an enclosed space for most ABS stuff. Personally I run my nozzle temperate at the high end for ABS filament to ensure a solid layer bond and the enclosed printer general hovers arby aussiephil - General
QuoteElmoC Quoteaussiephil Sounds good dc42, sort of sad that I have a 0.8.5 coming to continue my build, the DuetNG will be an upgrade for that machine though. With more people using external heater SSR's, it's a pity not to have a small 2 pin header for external SSR connection. Maybe the board could be designed with holes for both the bigger connector and a Molex KK style one? That way if yoby aussiephil - Duet
Sounds good dc42, sort of sad that I have a 0.8.5 coming to continue my build, the DuetNG will be an upgrade for that machine though. With more people using external heater SSR's, it's a pity not to have a small 2 pin header for external SSR connection.by aussiephil - Duet
Printing exclusively ABS for the last 14 months, one thing I didn't do was leave the printer in the house, it got put into the un-attached garage that gets quite a bit of fresh air. For me this was enough for the one printer. When I enclose the large delta I'm building it will get ducting installed to send fumes outside. I have a significant feeling that the level of MDF dust and general woodworby aussiephil - General
Ah Thanks David, That has simplified cabling runs point 1 no worries, we run SPI data for christmas lights well over 6M on Cat5 and 20AWG at much higher rates so should have no trouble finding some cable. Already up sizing wiring to deal with voltage drops for the longer runs for everything. Point 2 - surprised your only at 57600 actually Actually that leads to another question if you checkby aussiephil - Duet
In the middle of running all the wiring for the large delta and I can't find any info on the allowed distance between the two boards. I'd like to have the Duet at the bottom with PSU and the steppers and have the PanelDue mounted at the top or on the side. Doing this I would need up to 8 feet or 2.4M of cable. Is this possible? Is it just serial data on the line? I'd suck it and see but my Duby aussiephil - Duet
another weekend and some more progress, the physical construction has got to a point where it now looks like a 3D printer The dyzend hotend has arrived but still waiting on the E3D Titan extruder and a Duet 0.8.5..... start working on laying out wiring tomorrow.by aussiephil - Delta Machines
On machines and firmware designed for dual heads such as my flashforge creator pro and sailfish firmware it's pretty damn simple, even setting the head heights after switching to all metal hot ends was easy. It's the slicing or design side that has stopped me using it more. I rarely print stuff that needs support so don't use it for that either. What I do love is the dual printing (ditto) capabiby aussiephil - General
Output connectors should be rated at least 20A and all traces should be the same..... the ground plane looping around the atx24 looking a little thin on the edge of the board unless or using 2oz copper you may as well connect in the 12V rails from the ATX24 connector. I've designed a couple of these over the years but find that by the time you buy the required connectors in one off quantities yby aussiephil - Next Wave Electronics Working Group